Salt water above ground pools are usually easier to maintain and use fewer chemicals than traditional chlorine pools. Whether you want to convert your existing pool or add a salt water system to a new pool, there are a few things to keep in mind:

• Buy a salt water system that’s 1.5x your pool size. If you have a 10,000-gallon pool, you’ll want to purchase a system with at least a 15,000-gallon capacity.
• Make sure your pump can handle your new salt system. Check with the manufacturer to see what pump requirements they have.
• Purchase from a reputable company. If you need to replace or repair any part of your system, you’ll want a company that has available parts or a warranty.

With that in mind, we recommend the Hayward Goldline AquaTrol Salt System. Hayward is a well-known, reliable pool company that’s known for manufacturing consistently dependable pool equipment.

If you have a smaller pool or a tighter budget, check out the Intex Krystal Clear Salt Water System. This is best for smaller pools and will work with brands beyond Intex.

Keep reading for our complete guide on how to buy the right salt water system and a breakdown of each recommendation.

Best Overall: Hayward Goldline AquaTrol

The Hayward Goldline AquaTrol System is an ideal choice for pools of up to 18,000 gallons. It offers a quick and easy installation that can be done in 30 minutes. Abd there’s a digital salt display to show the salt levels in the water at any given time. Finally, the unit also has seven diagnostic indicators and features a super chlorinate function for when you need to shock the pool.

Best Budget Option: Intex Krystal Clear Salt Water System

The Intex Krystal Clear Salt Water System is available in a variety of sizes, with options for pools as small as 2,200 gallons and or as large as 15,000 gallons. It features a 24-hour automatic timer for fully automatic operation, so pool owners don’t have to worry about running the system too much. Adapters are included so the system can work with both Intex and non-Intex pool pumps and filters, including sand filter pumps. However, it requires a pool pump with a flow rate between 700 and 3,000 gallons per hour (GPH). So make sure your pool is equipped accordingly.

By the way, if you need more help understanding your pool equipment and pool chemistry, check out our Pool Care Video Course.

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What to Look for in a Salt Water Pool System

Here’s what to consider when buying a salt water system for your above ground pool.

1. Pool Size vs. Salt Water Generator Capacity

You will need a salt chlorinator with 1.5x to 2x your pool’s maximum capacity. It’s much better to get a larger system than your pool to ensure you have adequate sanitization power. For example, if you have a 20,000-gallon pool and use a system that has a maximum output of 20,000 gallons, you risk overworking your system and burning it out.

2. Chlorine Output

Your salt water system’s chlorine output is measured in pounds per day. And opting for a system with the capacity for a higher chlorine output allows you to keep your water adequately sanitized. It also should let you turn down the system when you need to reduce the sanitization, putting less stress on your system. And if you need a higher output, like after a storm or party, you can crank it up higher as needed. If you’re constantly having to run the system on the maximum output, that’s a sign you might not have enough capacity.

3. Frequency of Pool Use

If you frequently have a lot of people in the water, you’ll need a stronger system. More people means more contaminants, which means you’ll need a powerful system to sanitize your water. Being able to turn up or down your chlorine output helps here.

4. Climate and Environment

If you live in a hot climate, you’ll need a stronger system (especially if your pool gets heavy use in the summer). That’s because heat and sunlight can affect your water chemistry. And if you have lots of plants around your pool, you’ll have more dirt, debris, and bacteria in the water that needs to be cleaned. That means a bigger system. Finally, if you live in a place where heavy rain is frequent, you’ll need more sanitation power. You’ll also want to check the salinity level more often, as rainwater will dilute your salt concentration.

5. Pool Frame and Equipment Compatibility

If your pool has a steel or aluminum frame, do not use a salt chlorine generator system since it will cause corrosion. Other materials, such as vinyl and resin aren’t as susceptible to damage from corrosion. You may be able to replace components with more salt-tolerant pool equipment. Also, check to make sure that your pool filter and heater are compatible with a salt water system.

How to Convert to a Salt Water Pool

Have an above ground pool that you want to convert from a traditional chlorine pool to a salt water system? It’s actually easier than you may think and it doesn’t require any draining.

1. Check for Compatibility

Check to make sure that your pool filter, heater and pump are compatible with your system. While you do not need a special kind of pool pump for a salt water system, it needs to have enough capacity to support your new generator. And remember, a steel or aluminum pool frame will corrode with a salt chlorine generator system.

2. Balance Your Pool Water Chemistry

The good news? You don’t need to completely drain your pool to convert it to salt water. Check your generator installation manual before adjusting your chemicals. But in general, here’s the recommended water chemistry:

• Free chlorine: 1 to 3 ppm
• pH: 7.4 to 7.6
• Alkalinity: 100 to 150 ppm
• Calcium Hardness: 175 to 225 ppm (don’t worry about this level if you take down your pool every year)
• Cyanuric Acid: 30 to 50 ppm. Salt water pool owners may find that running CYA levels up to 80 ppm is helpful for keeping free chlorine levels where they should be. But you can always add more later, so start slow.

3. Install the Chlorinator

You’ll first need to mount the chlorinator controller to the wall near your pool’s equipment pad. Then, wire the controller for power. From there, you’ll connect the generator cell to the plumbing, then connect the cell to the controller. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installing your generator so you don’t void your warranty.

4. Add Pool-Grade Salt to the Water

Your generator won’t start working until you add enough salt to your water. The amount of salt you’ll need to add is based on the water volume. Your generator’s instruction manual should provide a table to help you determine how much salt to add to the pool. But if you need more help, check out our guide on How Much Salt to Add to Your Pool. In general, you’ll need about six or seven 40-pound bags for a 10,000-gallon pool that has no salt in it. Be sure to purchase pool-grade salt.

Broadcast the salt around your pool’s edges, allowing up to 24 hours for it to completely dissolve. Turn on your pool’s pump and filter to allow the salt to circulate through the water. After the salt is dissolved, turn on the salt chlorinator.

Frequently Asked Questions About Above Ground Salt Water Systems

Need more help finding the best salt water pool generator? Here are some common questions and answers.

How is a salt water pool different from a traditional chlorine pool?

A common misconception is that salt water pools don’t use chlorine. But a salt water pool is actually still a chlorine pool. The difference is that a salt water pool uses a salt water chlorine generator to convert pool salt into chlorine through electrolysis. The result is a consistent chlorine level with no need to constantly add chlorine to your pool. The resulting salt in the water is similar to the amount of salt in human tears. That’s about 3,500 parts per million (ppm).

Can you use a salt water system in an above ground pool?

Yes! All that matters is your pool is made out of material that can withstand the salt and that you have a salt water generator designed for an above ground swimming pool. There are systems available specifically for inground pools, which are not used interchangably.

How do I convert my above ground pool to salt water?

After you choose the salt water chlorinator system that is best for your needs, simply adjust your chemicals, install your system, add pool-grade salt and turn on your generator. For a complete step-by-step walkthrough, check out our guide on How to Convert Your Pool to Salt Water.

What equipment is needed for an above ground salt water pool?

All you need is a salt water chlorine system (which contains a control box and a salt cell). In terms of other pool supplies, you’ll need pool-grade salt to add to the water.

How much does a salt water pool system cost?

For an above ground swimming pool, a salt water pool system can be as little as $300 or as high as $2,000. Installation costs vary, depending on location and the size of the pool.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Best Salt Water System for Above Ground Pools appeared first on Swim University®.

Do you actually need a pool closing kit? And are they worth it? Winter pool closing kits usually come with everything you need to keep your pool protected and algae-free in the off-season, including:

• Algaecide
• Enzymes
• Scale and Stain Prevention
• Non-Chlorine Shock
• Other Pool Supplies, like Air Pillows and Time-Release Floaters

These kits are a convenient, all-in-one package to keep your pool clean in the off-season and help pool opening go smoothly in the spring. But you might not necessarily need all of the chemicals inside. So before you buy a kit, here’s a breakdown of what it comes with, which chemicals you actually need to close your pool, and which products you don’t.

How to Prepare Your Pool for Closing

First, whether or not you decide to buy a winter closing kit, you’ll need to do a few things to prepare your pool before adding any winterizing chemicals. And keep in mind that you might need to lower your pool water level below the skimmer, depending on how you plan to winterize your plumbing or what kind of cover you have.

So give yourself a week to complete all of your pool closing tasks, especially if you plan to use chlorine shock. A little extra work now will save you from any pool-opening headaches and algae growth issues in the spring.

1. Skim, brush and vacuum your pool

Anything you leave floating in your water or clinging to your walls will just get worse over the winter, so give your pool one last clean before closing up.

2. Test and balance your water

The goal is to get your water as balanced and healthy as possible before closing. So test your water and adjust your pool chemical levels as you would normally. Pay extra attention to pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness. Your pH and alkalinity levels will help your other chemicals do their job over the winter. And imbalanced calcium hardness levels can damage your pool surfaces or equipment.

By the way, if you feel confused about when and how to add chemicals, check out our Pool Care Video Course.

3. Shock your pool with chlorine

Shocking your water will kill any lingering contaminants, especially algae. A cal-hypo shock is the most powerful chlorine shock treatment, but you’ll need to add it at night and wait at least 8 hours to let it circulate and dissolve. If you want to speed things up, you can use a fast-dissolving chlorine shock, like dichlor shock, or liquid chlorine to shock your water. Just watch your cyanuric acid levels if you use a dichlor shock. Then retest your water and wait until your chlorine levels have dropped back down to add more chemicals.

Pool Closing Kits: Which Chemicals Do You Need to Close Your Pool?

Now that you’ve prepped your pool, it’s time to talk about winterizing chemicals. Here’s what’s in a typical pool closing kit and here’s which of the chemicals and pool supplies you actually need:

1. Winter Algaecide

Adding an algaecide before covering your pool is a great way to prevent green water in the spring. This is especially important if temperatures reach 60°F while you still have your pool cover on. While most kits market their algaecide as a “winter” formula, you might already have the right kind of algaecide on hand. Look for a 60% Polyquat Algaecide. This is non-copper based with a powerful enough concentration to kill algae in the off-season. It’s more expensive than a copper-based algaecide, but it won’t stain. And it won’t foam.

2. Slow-Release Winter Ball or Winter Pill

A Winterizer Ball or Pill slowly releases a blend of enzymes, clarifier, and stain and scale prevention into your water during the off-season. And it won’t affect the rest of your water chemistry. So if you have water with high metal content or if you struggle with stains, scaling, or scum lines in the spring, this product can help. And it’s a convenient, easy-to-use alternative to buying enzymes, clarifiers, and stain remover separately. But this is optional, so it’s considered extra insurance for some pool owners.

3. Stain and Scale Preventer

In addition to an all-in-one WinterPill, many pool closing kits come with a separate chemical for stain and scale build-up prevention. But the best stain protection for your pool? A solid winter pool cover that keeps debris out of your water. And if you completely clean your pool before closing, you shouldn’t need additional stain and scale prevention.

4. Chlorine-Free Shock (Oxidizer)

Many kits come with an oxidizer, a.k.a. non-chlorine shock, to add to your water when closing. It doesn’t need circulating and it won’t damage your liner or surfaces. But if you’ve just shocked your water in the prep we mentioned before, you don’t need to add pool shock again. Check to make sure your free chlorine and total chlorine levels are in range. If they are, you don’t need to add an oxidizer.

5. Phosphate Removers

Phosphate removers are marketed as a way to starve algae by removing its food source. But you don’t need this if you’ve cleaned your pool, you have a good winter cover, and you’ve added an algaecide.

6. Time-Release Floaters or Absorbing Sponges

These products are found in some pool closing kits to provide ongoing protection throughout the winter. But again, if you’ve already cleaned your pool, balanced your water, and added algaecide, a floater or an oil-absorbing sponge isn’t needed.

7. Air Pillows

If you have an above ground pool, you should absolutely use an air pillow under your cover. This helps prevent ice damage and your pool walls from collapsing in the winter months. But if you have an inground pool (or you already own an air pillow), then you don’t need a closing kit with a pillow.

Are Pool Closing Kits Worth It?

If you want extra protection and don’t want to have to buy individual chemicals, a closing chemical kit is a convenient purchase.

Otherwise, you really just need a 60% Polyquat Algaecide, and then use a WinterPill as an optional layer of protection. Regardless, make sure your pool is clean and use a good winter cover to prevent debris from getting into your pool.

Frequently Asked Questions about Pool Closing Kits

Need more help deciding if a winter closing kit is right for you? Here are some common questions and answers.

What size pool closing kit do I need?

Once you know the volume of your pool, check with the manufacturer to figure out the right size kit for your pool. Some winter kits include different sizes that cover up to 15,000 gallons or 35,000 gallons.

What algaecide should I use to close my pool?

We recommend using a copper-free algaecide to avoid staining. Look for a 60% Polyquat Algaecide, since its concentration is powerful enough to kill algae all winter long. While it’s a little more expensive than copper-based algaecide, it’s worth it to prevent staining, especially if you have high metal content in your water.

Should I shock my pool before closing?

Yes, shock your pool a few days before you plan to add winter chemicals and close your pool. Shocking will kill any bacteria and algae in the water. Use a chlorine-based shock. If you need more help deciding which shock to use, check out our guide on the Best Pool Shock.

How do I close my pool by myself?

If you need more help closing your pool yourself, be sure to check out our guide to How to Close an Inground Pool and How to Close an Above Ground Pool.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Pool Closing Kits: What Chemicals Do You Actually Need to Close Your Pool? appeared first on Swim University®.

Knowing how much salt to add to your pool is crucial to keep your salt water pool chlorinated and your chlorine generator running properly. If your salt levels get too low, your generator won’t produce enough chlorine to keep your pool sanitized — or it’ll stop running all togeter. But if your salinity gets too high, you risk causing damage to your pool’s equipment and surfaces.

The ideal salt level for a pool is around 3,200 PPM. If you’re starting with no salt (0 PPM) and you have a 10,000-gallon pool, you’ll need to add 267 pounds of salt. That’s six to seven 40-pound pool-grade bags of salt.

Here’s a quick table to help you calculate how much salt you need to add to your pool based on your pool volume and current salt levels.

What’s the Correct Level of Salt for Your Pool?

The ideal salt level is between 2,700 to 3,400 ppm with the optimal level being 3,200 ppm. Once you add the initial amount of salt to your water (either when you fill your pool or at the start of the season), you likely won’t need any additional salt. That’s because your salt water generator continuously uses the salt to generate chlorine (thanks to electrolysis). Then the chlorine sanitizes your pool. The salt does not evaporate but it does get diluted when it rains or if you add fresh water.

If you’re converting to a salt water system for the first time, you’ll need about six or seven 40-pound bags of pool salt (for a 10,000-gallon pool). On the other hand, if your salt levels are just low (around 1,000 PPM), you’ll only need about four or five 40-pound bags of pool-grade salt.

Luckily, pool salt is relatively inexpensive. And as mentioned, once you add it at the beginning of the season, it should stay in your water. And you can always add more salt if you need to. So start slowly and let the salt circulate and dissolve. Then retest your salt levels.

By the way, if you need more help figuring out what other chemicals to add to your pool and when to add them, be sure to check out our Pool Care Video Course.

How to Test Your Current Pool Salt Levels

Before you can figure out how much salt to add to your swimming pool, you’ll need to know your current salinity levels. Your salt water generator should tell you what your current salt level is. So start by checking the digital display to get a salinity reading.

However, sometimes a salt water generator can give you an inaccurate salt reading. This may be the case if your unit needs to be recalibrated, or if your water temperature is too low. Funny enough, lower water temperatures produce lower salt readings.

You may also experience inaccurate readings if you have high total dissolved solids (TDS) because of other minerals in the water. Or your salt sensor may also need cleaning.

So to verify how much salt is in your water, use one of these manual testing methods at least once a month.

Digital Salinity Tester

A digital salinity tester is the most accurate way to test your salt levels. Simply place your digital tester directly in your pool water. Beyond testing for salinity, most digital testers also measure total dissolved solids (TDS) total hardness.

Salt Test Strips

With most salt water test strips, simply dip the test strip in a pool water sample and wait several minutes for the results. While this isn’t as accurate as a digital tester, it’s a cheap way to get an approximate reading.

Liquid Reagent Kit

You can get a liquid test kit that includes salt water readings. Simply fill the included vials with pool water from your pool. Add the reagent according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once mixed, the samples change color.

How to Calculate How Much Salt to Add to Your Pool

Use this formula to determine how much salt you need to add to your pool. This assumes your salt levels should be around 3,200 PPM:

How Much Salt to Add (In Pounds) = Your Pool Water in Gallons x 8.35 x (0.0032 – Current Salt PPM / 1,000,000)

For example, if you have a 12,000-gallon pool and your current salt PPM is 1,200 PPM, your math should look like this:

• 12,000 x 8.35 x (0.0032 -1,200/1,000,000)
• 12,000 x 8.35 x (0.0032 – 0.0012)
• 12,000 x 8.35 x 0.0020 = 200.4 pounds

That means you need to add about 200 pounds of salt to the pool water to bring your salt levels up to 3,200 PPM. Generally, pool salt comes in 40-pound bags, so you’d need 5 bags of salt to get the 200 pounds you need.

How to Add Salt to Your Pool

Before adding salt to your pool, whether it’s your first time using salt or it’s part of regular pool maintenance, test your water levels. Make sure your alkalinity and pH are balanced before adding salt.

You’ll also want to buy pool-grade salt that’s at least 99.8% pure sodium chloride (NaCl). It should be evaporated, food-grade, granulated, non-iodized salt. And make sure it does not contain anti-caking agents because they can discolor pool surface finishes and fittings. Do not substitute sodium chloride for calcium chloride.

Turn off your salt chlorine generator. But leave your pump and filter on to circulate the water, which will help dissolve the salt.

Add the salt to the shallow end or around the perimeter. Do not pour the salt directly into the skimmer. Then, let it dissolve and circulate. Depending on how fine the salt is, it could take up to 24 hours to completely dissolve.

Once the salt has dissolved, turn on your salt chlorinator. Test the water to make sure you have a salt level of around 3,200 PPM. Levels much lower than that will make your generator less effective and produce less chlorine. But levels higher than 4,500 PPM will reduce the lifespan of your salt cell and can cause erosion and damage to your pool surfaces and equipment.

Remember, you likely only need to add salt to your pool once a year at the beginning of the pool season. Or add salt to replace lost salt from splashout, backwashing or rain. If you ever have to completely drain and refill your pool, you’ll need to completely replace all the pool salt.

Frequently Asked Questions About Pool Salt

Need more help with adding salt to your pool? Check out our guide on Salt Water Pool Maintenance 101. And here are some frequent questions and answers.

How do you calculate pool volume?

The volume of a rectangular pool is calculated by taking the length x width x average depth. For other shapes or pools with varying depths, you can calculate your pool volume (in gallons) with our Pool Volume Calculator.

How many bags of salt do I need for my pool?

It depends on your current salt level and your pool size. Let’s say your above ground pool has 10,000 gallons of water and you need to raise your salt level from 0 to 3,200 PPM because you’re starting with fresh water or a new salt system. You will need 200 pounds of pool salt or about five 40-pound bags. The salt will stay in the water, so you will only need to add a bit more every year to replace the salt you lose to splashout and backwashing.

How many bags of salt do I need for my 15,000-gallon pool?

If you’re starting with no salt, you’ll need about 300 pounds of salt for 15,000 gallons of water. Since pool salt comes in 40-pound bags, you will need a little less than 8 bags.

Can you put too much salt in a pool?

Adding a bit more salt to your pool won’t typically cause any issues. If the excessive salt levels reach 5,000 ppm or more, you could cause corrosion of metal equipment in the pool.

What else do I need to add to my pool besides salt?

In addition to salt, you’ll want to test and balance your pH, alkalinity, and cyanuric acid levels regularly. You should also manually test your chlorine levels and salt levels, just in case your salt water system isn’t measuring chlorine production correctly. This is why regular water testing is important.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post How Much Salt to Add to Your Pool (Easy Pool Salt Calculation) appeared first on Swim University®.