Pool filters are as important to your pool as your kidneys are to your own body. We know that sounds kind of gross, but it’s true. Though chlorine and other sanitizers work to kill bacteria and other contaminants, the filter is what actually removes them from the water. Without it, your pool water would grow cloudy and fill with debris. Not exactly fun for swimming.

So how do you choose the best one? It’s not about which one is the least expensive, though cost is certainly a factor. You want a filter that will trap contaminants, be easy to clean and maintain, and last more than just a few seasons. In order to make the best selection for your pool, first get a handle on your options.

Pool Filter Types

The first step to choosing the best filter is knowing what your options are. You have three types of filters to choose from: sand, cartridge, and diatomaceous earth, or D.E. Price, replacement frequency, and filtration rates differ by type. And if you’re wondering how to clean a pool filter, that will also depend on the type you select.

But before you can accurately compare pool filter types, how well they function, and how much work they require to maintain, you need to know about microns.

What the Heck is a Micron?

Pool filters measure the size of contaminants they’re capable of removing in microns. It’s short for micrometer, which is one millionth of a meter.

Having trouble picturing just how small that is? A single strand of human hair is about 50 microns, or about .05 millimeters in diameter. Some bacteria measures about 2 microns, or about .002 millimeters in diameter.

Whether they’ve been killed by chlorine or not, bacteria and other contaminants can only be filtered out if the filter media—the material that actually does the filtering—is fine enough to collect those teeny, tiny particles.

Sand Filters

If you’re on a budget, and you want to spend minimal time on maintenance, a sand filter is the best choice for you. It’s also optimal for large pools because it won’t clog as easily as other filters.

Your pool pump sucks water in from the skimmers, then pushes it through a large filtration tank full of sand. The standard media used inside the tank is #20 silica sand. It grabs particles that measure 20 microns and larger.

Each grain of sand is, for lack of a better word, prickly. If you could look at it under a microscope, you’d see it has lots of little rough edges all around it, which is how it grabs contaminants and debris that pass through the filter.

As weeks and years pass, and more water flows through the filter, those rough edges are slowly worn down by erosion, eventually becoming smooth surfaces that aren’t able to capture anything.

At the same time, the particles trapped within the sand will build up over the life of the filter. This can actually help trap smaller particles, even as the sand itself begins to smooth out. But eventually, it will prevent proper water flow through the filter, reducing the filter’s efficiency.

A pressure gauge on the side of the filter will alert you to increasing internal pressure—a sign it’s time to backwash the filter. This easy cleaning method the filter reverses the water flow, flushing all the debris to waste.

Because the silica captures particles of 20 microns or larger, you’ll really need to stay on top of your pool water chemistry. If there’s not enough sanitizer in your pool to kill those tiny, 2-micron bacteria, a sand filter isn’t going to catch them either, and they’ll be floating around in your pool with you.

Sand Alternatives

Although #20 silica is the standard media in sand filters, you can slightly increase filtration efficiency by adding D.E. powder after backwashing or replacing the sand.

You can also entirely replace the silica with one of two alternatives.

ZeoSand: This is made from a mineral called zeolite. You need only half as much (by weight in pounds) as standard pool filter sand. Its crystal-like shape naturally traps smaller contaminants than silica. This improves water clarity and requires less frequent backwashing. ZeoSand lasts about five years, so its lifespan is similar to silica.

Filter Glass: This is finely crushed, recycled glass. Don’t worry about cuts—it’s smooth to the touch. It has a negative electrical charge which attracts positively charged particles, such as iron and manganese. You can use about 20% less filter glass than you would silica while filtering debris as small as 5 microns. It also lasts up to three times longer than pool sand.

Filter Balls: This innovative pool filter media offers superior performance with 2.9 lbs of filter ball, equating to 100 lbs of filter sand. The balls are made of polyester, polypropylene, and acrylic fiber.  The spherical fiber filter features high filtration strength and speedy filtration. With the advantage of not blocking your filter and requiring less backwash for maintenance, this premium filter media extends filter life and is an excellent replacement for filter sand, glass, and other media.

Sand Filter Pros:

• Lower cost
• Easier maintenance
• Sand lasts five to seven years before needing to be changed
• Filtration efficiency can be boosted with additives and alternative media

Sand Filter Cons:

• 20-micron filtration is the least effective of the three types
• Backwashing and rinsing wastes water
• Building pressure decreases filter efficiency

Cartridge Filters

Though they’re typically a bit more expensive than sand filters, cartridge filters are just as easy to maintain, and are more effective as long as you don’t have a huge pool.

Inside a tank slightly smaller than their sand cousins is a plastic cylinder surrounded by pleated polyester filter media and capped on each end. Water flows into the tank and through the pleats. Debris as small as 10 microns is captured in the filter, then clean water heads back to the pool.

Cartridges are energy efficient and inexpensive. As the filter collects contaminants, it’ll need cleaning. Rather than backwashing, you’ll simply remove the cartridge from the tank, and spray it with a hose to remove debris and dirt.

Occasionally, you’ll want to spray it down with filter cleaner, and on a regular basis, soak it in diluted muriatic acid or a chemical filter cleaning solution. While this is a bit more physical work for you than backwashing, it wastes less water.

Cartridge Filter Pros:

• Filters contaminants as small as 10 microns
• No backwashing; less water waste
• Performs well at low speeds, such as with variable-speed pumps

Cartridge Filter Cons:

• More work than sand filters
• Lasts only 2 to 3 years
• Deep cleaning required 1 to 2 times per year

Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.) Filters

The most expensive, maintenance-intensive option also happens to filter the smallest particles of all three types of filters: 5 microns.

D.E. filter tanks contain grids or “fingers” covered in the crumbly, white powder. The powder is made from the crushed fossilized remains of tiny, aquatic organisms called diatoms. Though D.E. and sand pool filters are different, the fossils in D.E. are also composed of silica. The powdery substance can be found in pest control, cosmetics, and even toothpastes, but D.E. made for pool filters is heat-treated to work as a filtration media. So don’t go sprinkling that pest-control powder into your pool filter when you run out of D.E., mm-kay? We’re talking about different kinds of pests here.

Backwash or Bump Cleaning

Like sand filters, a pressure gauge on the tank will let you know when it’s time to clean your D.E. filter. Typically, D.E. filters are backwashed just like sand filters. Some brands feature a bump handle, which lets you knock the used D.E. off the grids or fingers to clean.

Whether you backwash or bump the filter, you’ll need to add more D.E. powder after every cleaning. It can be difficult to determine exactly how much to add, so it’s especially important to disassemble and clean the filter by hand at least once a year.

How to Add New D.E. to the Filter

After you’ve cleaned your filter, rather than adding D.E. powder directly to the grids, you’ll get much better coverage if you add it through the pool’s skimmer.

• Mix the D.E with enough water to make a slurry, which will look like a thin, creamy solution.
• Make sure the pool pump is running.
• Slowly pour the solution directly into the skimmer.

As the D.E. passes through the filter, it will evenly distribute over the grids. You’ll need to wait a while before swimming to give the mixture time to fully integrate with the filter, so you may want to do this in the evening, and then run your pump overnight.

Illegal Backwashing

Some cities and towns appreciate backwashing as much as parents of small children do. Yours may have regulations specifying how to legally dispose of used D.E.

When it’s rinsed from the grids, D.E. powder can build up over time, creating a concrete-like residue that can clog storm drains or suffocate fish eggs.

Usually, you’ll be allowed to empty old D.E. into a disposable container and place it in the trash. Check with your local authority for specifics to ensure you don’t end up with a fine, and more importantly, don’t damage the environment.

Cancer Risk with D.E. Filters

Though D.E. is a known carcinogen, it has only proved cancer-causing in mice when inhaled long term.

Important: Safety first. Prevent accidental inhalation by wearing a chemical mask when you handle D.E. powder. Also, keep children and pets away from the area when you’re working with D.E. powder, and from the area where it’s stored. Immediately clean up any spilled powder.

D.E. Filter Pros:

• Filters contaminants as small as 5 microns
• D.E. powder can be added through the pool skimmer
• No caustic chemicals are required for cleaning

D.E. Filter Cons:

• Highest cost filter
• Annual cleaning is a lot of work
• Grids need replacement every 2 to 3 years
• Hard to find for above ground pools
• Backwashing may be restricted by locale
• D.E. powder can be harmful if inhaled

Size Matters

A pool filter and a pool pump go hand in hand. The filter can’t function without the pump to move water through it. And neither will work properly if the pump isn’t the correct size for your pool.

Before you settle on a pool filter, make sure you have the right size pool pump.

Filter Size

Filters are rated by gallons per minute (GPM) per square foot. The filter flow rate must be rated at least the same GPM as your pump, or higher. With pool filters, it’s best to err on the larger size so it can handle the power of your pump. A helpful rule of thumb is to choose a filter with at least 1 square foot per 10,000 gallons pool capacity.

Bargain shoppers beware. It’s nice to save money when you can. But off brands can come and go, leaving you searching for replacement products from defunct companies down the road. Buying a pool filter from a trusted manufacturer can save you headaches and dollars in the long run.

How to Troubleshoot a Pool Filter

Because it plays such an important role in keeping your pool clean, it’s imperative that you keep your pool filter in good condition. Filters run into a few common problems, and knowing how to recognize them will help you troubleshoot, and then repair them.

Leaks

Do you hear or see water dripping around the filter? Have you noticed a small puddle forming below it? If so, your pool filter may have sprung a leak.

A leak in your filter won’t cause a significant drop in your pool’s water, but it’s still important to identify and repair the problem before it worsens.

First, try to identify the source of the leak. Check the filter’s tank for any holes. If you do find one, you may be able to patch it. But be prepared to replace the tank because a patch likely won’t hold up for very long.

If you have split-tank filter, check the belly for leaks. Remove the band and inspect the O-ring for wear and tear or debris. If it’s worn out, you’ll need to replace it. Remember to add pool gasket lubricant to help in sealing, and to keep the ring hydrated, which will help it last longer.

Cycle Problems

If your filter often seems to be running only in short cycles, and you notice this happening even when the pool isn’t in use, the filter could have a flow rate problem.

The likely problem is that the flow rate is too high, which means your pool pump may be too strong for your filter. It could also mean your filter isn’t big enough for your pool.

If your filter is the right size, you may need to backwash the filter for a longer period of time. When backwashing, remember to continue the process until the water in the sight glass is clear. This could take several minutes.

The filter may also be running in shorter cycles because algae or other debris is clogging it. Clean the pool filter thoroughly, and consider replacing it if it seems worn out.

Filter Material in the Pool

It’s not uncommon to see some filter material in the pool after backwashing, regardless of what kind of filter you have. But if you start noticing it when you haven’t just backwashed, you may have a problem.

The first thing to check is the bolts holding the filter in place. If they’re loose, it could allow particles to escape into the pool. If they’re not, look for other causes.

If you have a sand filter, the filter lateral or standpipe may be broken. If it is, you’ll need to replace it.

If you have a D.E. filter, there could be tear in the fabric of the grid, or even a crack in the grid manifold. Again, if this is the problem, you’ll need to replace the manifold.

Water Pressure Problems

Checking the pressure gauge should be part of your regular pool maintenance. Problems with water pressure can affect your pool filter’s performance.

If the pressure is too low, there could be a blockage in the system somewhere before the filter. If the pressure is too high, there could be a blockage at some point after the filter.

Thoroughly check the filter system to see if it’s clogged, and clean it if necessary. If you don’t find any clogs, and the filter is clean, check the return valve to make sure it’s completely open, and then double check the lines to see if you can find a clog.

Best Sand Filters

If you’re looking for low-cost, low-maintenance filtration that won’t clog up quickly, four models stand out above the rest.

Hayward S244T ProSeries Top-Mount Sand Filter (Inground)

Featuring a weatherproof, corrosion-proof tank, the Hayward S224T ProSeries is built to last. It’s available in three sizes and includes a multi-port valve.

You can get models with side mounts, if needed. Plus, you only have to backwash it every few months, depending on how often you use your pool.

Pentair Triton II Side Mount Sand Filter without Valve (Inground)

Created with ease of use in mind, the Pentair Triton II is the picture of simplicity. The pressure gauge is conveniently located and easy to read. Its swing-away diffuser gives you quick access to the sand. And the combination sand/water drain makes winterizing a snap.

Intex Krystal Clear Sand Filter Pump (Above Ground)

If you have an Intex pool, why not get a sand filter designed specifically for it? The Intex Krystal Clear has a 24-hour timer so you can automate filter cycles. The six-function valve easily switches between filter, backwash, rinse, recirculate, drain, and close.

At the end of the season, it’s easy to quickly break down and store this filter through the winter. Plus, you’ll only have to replace the sand every five years or so.

Best Cartridge Filters

Want a finer filter media than sand, without the expense or labor-intensive maintenance? Four cartridge models do the job.

Pentair 160301 Clean & Clear Plus Cartridge Pool Filter (Inground)

Designed with the maximum filter surface area to clean your water more quickly and efficiently than other filters, the Pentair Clean & Clear Plus has an effective filter area of 420 square feet. Internal and manual air relief make maintaining good water pressure easy. It filters 150 GPM inside a sturdy, injection-molded tank.

Hayward C4001575XES EasyClear Filter (Above Ground)

From a trusted name in the pool industry comes the Micro StarClear. This little Hayward filter is just right for above ground pools under 24,000 gallons. It offers easy access to the cartridge for changes, and you can rotate the head so the pressure gauge and manual air relief valve are right where you need them.

Intex 28633EG Krystal Clear Cartridge Filter Pump (Above Ground)

If you’re an Intex owner looking for a cartridge filter, this is for you. Unlike other options, this filter uses disposable cartridges. Maintenance is as convenient as turning the handy flush valve and popping in a new cartridge.

At the end of the season, dismantle and store it with your pool. If your weather is mild, its double-walled construction means you can just leave it up with no worries.

Best D.E. Filters

For just a bit more money and maintenance, you can enjoy the best filtration available by choosing a D.E. filter.

Pentair 188592 Quad Cartridge Style D.E. Pool Filter (Inground)

Designed with easily removable cartridges, the Pentair Quad makes maintenance a little easier on you. It has four, large-capacity cartridges that provide loads of surface area so your pump uses less energy to get the water just as clean as other D.E. filters.

The increased surface area also means it takes longer to clog, so you can clean it less often. It’s all housed inside a durable, fiberglass-reinforced polypropylene tank.

Hayward EC40AC Perflex Extended-Cycle D.E. Pool Filter (Above Ground)

If you’re looking for serious cleaning and low maintenance, look no further than the Hayward Perflex Extended-Cycle. Featuring a cool bump mechanism that allows the D.E. Flex-Tubes to clean themselves, this model means minimal cleaning time. It’s designed to minimize resistance, so it can maximize efficiency at lower horsepower.

The Best Filter is the One That’s Best For You

You can spend less money for less maintenance and less filtering. Or invest a little more up front for better filtering for the cost of more time and work. It’s really up to you what’s best for your schedule and your budget.

No matter what pool filter you choose, remember that keeping your water chemistry balanced gets you more than halfway to a clean pool. Stay on top of cleaning and maintenance, and your filter can last you for many years to come.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Select The Best Pool Filter appeared first on Swim University®.

You’ve probably never sat by your beautiful pool, sipping a cool beverage, wondering how to patch a pool liner. It’s far more likely you’ll be all set to jump in for a refreshing swim, but stop dead in your tracks when you notice the yard by your inground pool feels swampy. Maybe you’ll glance out the back window just before your first sip of coffee in the morning, and see a growing waterfall has sprung from the side of your above ground pool.

If you’re reading this, you may have just discovered the need to patch your vinyl pool liner, and that’s never a fun discovery. You may even be freaking out a little. Take a breath. Unless you have a very old liner, a massive tear, or a tree fell on your pool, you can probably patch it.

Why Should You Learn How to Patch a Pool Liner?

Depending on the size and location of a leak, you could face serious damage if it isn’t addressed quickly.

Above Ground Pool Dangers

If an above ground pool springs a leak, the water will drain until it reaches the level of the hole. If the leak is near the top rail, the water might only go down a couple of inches. But if it’s near the bottom of the wall or the floor of the pool, the extensive water loss could collapse the pool and turn your yard into a muddy mess.

Inground Pool Dangers

A leak in your inground pool liner can also cause a lot of damage. The water can create a pocket of liquid under your pool deck or cause soil erosion, leading to instability and deck cave-ins. It can also cause rust on steel pools, or erosion of concrete ones.

While those issues can be repaired, you can only find them if you completely remove and replace your inground pool liner. The best course of action is to stop the leak as quickly as you can.

Tip: If you’ve just found a leak and you’re trying to figure out what to do: Grab a roll of duct tape, and cut a piece a bit larger than the hole. You can stick it right under water and rub it onto your liner. It won’t last forever, but it’ll help keep the water in your pool until you can properly patch it.

Note: If your pool is concrete and develops cracks (which it will over time) that need to be patched, pool plaster repair is a whole other task with its own tools and precautions.

The Practicalities of Pool Liner Patching

So your pool is losing water, which means your liner has sprung a leak. Or does it? That information is key before you start patching anything.

Leak or Just Evaporation?

Most pools lose an average of about ¼ to ½ an inch of water every day to evaporation. But if you notice you’re losing an inch or more per day? That sounds like a leak. Maybe.

Confirm the Leak

Use the bucket test to be sure your suspected pool leak isn’t just evaporation.

Locate the Leak

When you’re sure you’ve got a leak, use the ink method to find the exact spot you need to patch. Determine whether the hole is small enough to patch, then whether you need to patch it wet or dry.

How Big is Too Big?

Patches are temporary. Some will last for years, but they’re not likely to last 15 years. And the bigger a tear is, the more likely the edges of the patch will get snagged, curl up, or pull away.

When the patch comes up on its own, you may be able to repair it. We’ll refrain from examining how meta it is to repair a repair. But if the patch gets caught on something and pulled off, it could further rip the liner, and then you’ll have a bigger problem than you started with.

No hard and fast rules apply to the size of leaks that can be successfully patched. You could have a 2-inch patch fall off after a day or a 10-inch patch stay in place for five years. The more important factor to consider is whether your liner is worth trying to patch.

If your liner is two years old and in great shape except for an 8-inch tear on the back wall, it’s certainly worth trying a patch. The tear is large, but the vinyl is otherwise strong and in a spot that won’t get much traffic.

If your liner 15 years old with a 2-inch tear next to the stairs, you definitely need to patch it to control water loss and prevent damage. But you also need to start shopping for a new liner.

An older liner is thinner, more prone to pinholes and weak spots, and more likely to spring more leaks. Patching may extend the life of your liner, but know that this leak is likely a symptom that the liner is nearing the end of its life.

Note: Areas of the liner close to the stairs, bead, or any of the fittings have the weight of the pool water pulling on them. They’re under more stress than other areas, so patches there may be less likely to hold up long term.

Instantly Stop Leaks

Quick fixes come in three flavors. All three can be applied underwater or dry.

Waterproof Tape

Not specifically a vinyl pool patching product, waterproof tapes are marketed for all sorts of quick repairs. It’s similar to duct tape, but clear, waterproof, and UV resistant. The tape can be overlapped to create larger sections for patching.

It’s low cost, durable, and easy to re-do if necessary. It’s best for smaller patch jobs because it tends to peel.

Peel-and-Stick Patches

As easy as waterproof tape, but made from real vinyl and designed for use in pools and on inflatable pool items. Some peel-and-stick patches are even pre-cut in perfect, neat circles. The round shape makes them less likely to peel up around the edges.

Just remove the paper backing, and press it over the leak. These are also inexpensive and best used on small punctures and tears.

Vinyl Patch Kit

If you need to seal a slightly larger hole or you’re hoping for a longer-term fix, you can grab a patch kit. Kits include large chunks of liner and special vinyl adhesive that works underwater. Some come with blue and clear vinyl.

Patch kits for soft-sided above ground pools also include a piece of special laminated polyvinyl chloride (PVC) material, so you can properly patch the outside of the pool walls.

Wet or Dry Patch?

If the pool’s water level has dropped to the level of a wall leak, it’s okay to patch it dry. You don’t need to drain your pool to apply a patch to any leak, though.

How to Patch a Pool Liner Underwater

Letting all the water out can cause above ground pool walls to collapse. Emptying any pool with a vinyl liner dries it out and exposes it to damaging ultraviolet (UV) rays, which can make the liner brittle. And draining an inground pool can cause it to literally pop out of the ground if you’re not careful. It’s best to patch the liner underwater, unless the leak exposed it.

Important: Never drain an inground pool unless it’s absolutely necessary—not even before a hurricane—because it can further weaken your liner and even cause structural damage. If it’s necessary, and you’re not sure how to drain a pool, learn the process before you start, or hire a professional to do it for you.

You’ll need:

• Scissors
• Non-abrasive scouring pad
• Weight (pool cleaner head or brick wrapped in plastic wrap)
• Swimming goggles (if needed)
• Vinyl patch kit or vinyl adhesive
• Craft stick (to spread adhesive)
• Patching vinyl

1. Clean the Area

Any debris, algae, sunscreen or other stuff stuck to your pool walls makes it harder for a patch or adhesive to adhere. Use a non-abrasive scouring pad to gently clean the vinyl around the hole. Do not scrub. You don’t want to make the hole any bigger.

2. Trim the Patch

If you’re not using peel-and-stick patches, cut the patching vinyl into a circle. Be sure it’s at least two inches larger in diameter than the hole. For example, if the rip is three inches long, the patch must be five inches in diameter.

3. Apply Adhesive

For peel-and-stick patches, remove the paper backing to expose the adhesive side. For all other patches, be sure it’s free of debris, then use the dauber to apply a generous amount of adhesive. Make sure it reaches all the edges.

4. Taco ‘Bout It

Fold the patch in half like a taco, with the sticky side out, then submerge it.

5. Stick It

Holding the patch over the hole, slowly and gently open the patch taco while smoothing it onto the pool liner. Press out any air bubbles, then hold the patch in place for two minutes. The adhesive needs to cure to reach its full strength, so resist the urge to tug on the patch to check it.

6. Apply Weight

Some patch products recommend putting weight on your patch for 24 hours while the adhesive cures. It’s next to impossible to apply weight to your pool wall. But if your patch is in a spot where it’s possible to do so, rest your pool cleaner head or a clean brick covered in plastic wrap on top of the patch.

7. Double Patch It

Placing a second patch over the first won’t make your fix any stronger, but if it makes you feel more at ease, there’s no reason you can’t double up. If you do, be sure to let the first patch cure completely before applying the second. Cut the second patch at least two inches larger in diameter than the first patch (making it four inches larger than the hole), so it can adhere to the pool liner and the first patch.

Easy Soft-Sided Vinyl Pool Patching

Intex-style pools are made from slightly different material than vinyl pool liners, but they can also be patched, even on the outside. You don’t need to empty them, either.

Patch kits for this type of pool usually include clear vinyl, blue vinyl, and exterior patch material (laminated PVC). The clear is for top ring repairs, the blue is for interior repairs, and the laminated PVC is for outer wall repairs. The adhesive works for all three. If you’re concerned about risks associated with PVC exposure, look for patch kits with bisphenol A (BPA)-free patching vinyl.

You can also find peel-and-stick patches for this type of pool, which may be easier to use.

Patching soft-sided pools follows the same process as with any vinyl liner, except when patching the top ring. Fully inflate the ring, mark the hole, and apply adhesive around it. Then apply adhesive to the clear patch and apply it. Press on it for a few seconds, then slightly deflate the ring so the adhesive can cure without pressure. After 12 hours, you can reinflate the ring.

When Patches Aren’t Enough

The road to a brand-new pool liner is paved with good intentions and waterproof tape. Eventually, no matter how good you are with a dauber and adhesive, your liner will give up the ghost. Knowing how to patch a pool liner can buy you time to find a replacement liner without letting leaks destroy your pool or property.

Once your liner has a patch or two, be sure to keep an eye them. If they start to pull up, work a little adhesive under the edges and smooth them back down. You can also double patch by smoothing a larger patch over one that’s starting to give out. Just remember, pool patches won’t last forever. But if applied correctly, you may well keep enjoying your pool liner for years to come.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Instantly Patch Any Pool Liner appeared first on Swim University®.

A dirty pool is bad enough. But a stained pool? Yuck! How is that even possible? The truth is, pool owners can be super vigilant about maintenance, and your pool can still end up with stains. The good news is, all you need is a good pool chemical stain remover. The better news is, you can take steps to prevent future pool stains. The key is knowing what caused the stains in the first place.

What Causes Pool Stains?

Before choosing and applying the correct pool stain remover, you need to determine what stained your pool. The most common pool stains generally fall into two categories:

1. Organic Stains: Organic materials like leaves, berries, and other organic debris can leave stains if they’re allowed to settle and left too long on your pool walls or floor.
2. Metal Stains: Several types of metal can accidentally be introduced into your pool. Maybe your primary water source is a well. Or you have corroded copper pipes in your water system. Rusted metal accessories, parts, and equipment can also cause stains.

Once you determine what type of stain you have, you can decide which type of pool stain remover to use. The best way to figure that out is by the stain’s color.

Green and Brown Pool Stains

These greenish-brown stains are most likely organic stains caused by leaves or other plant matter.

Red or Blue Stains

These are more than likely from brightly colored berries. They’re the most likely culprits if you have berry-bearing trees or bushes near the pool.

Green or Blue Stains

These could be caused by organic matter like leaves or berries. But if there’s nothing like that around your pool, they were likely caused by copper, which can be present in well water. Or if you have copper piping anywhere in your plumbing system, it may be corroded, which can also cause copper stains. This type of staining can also be caused by copper-based algaecides. That’s why we always recommend using a polyquat algaecide like Algacide 60.

Red or Brown Stains

This combination of reddish-brown stains is an indication of iron in the water causing iron stains. If you fill your pool with well water, it likely contains iron. Or perhaps you have iron somewhere in your pool area, such as a fence. If it rusts, and the rust makes its way into your pool somehow (when it rains, for example), you can end up with rust stains.

Purple or Black Stains

This dark color combination (mainly purple stains) is caused by manganese. This naturally occurring metal is present in well water. But it can also be found in municipal water supplies. The water is treated to reduce the amount of manganese, but it’s not completely removed.

Determine the Cause of The Pool Stains

Once you’ve got a good idea of what caused the staining in your pool, you’ll need to test your theory and confirm the source of the problem.

Organic Pool Stain Test

If you suspect an organic stain, apply a small amount of chlorine directly to it. If it’s truly organic, it should go away easily.

Metal Pool Stain Test

Chlorine has little to no effect on metals. This is why some pool accessories, such as ladders, are made of metal. If you suspect a metal stain, apply some ascorbic acid—vitamin C—powder to the stain. If the stain is removed or at least lightened by the powder, it was caused by metal.

How to Remove Pool Stains

Identifying the stains and their sources if only half the battle. Next is removing them.

How To Remove Organic Swimming Pool Stains

As the identification test indicated, chlorine is the solution here. But you’ll need to super-chlorinate the water because the amount you use for regular sanitizing isn’t enough to remove stains. To do that, you’ll use pool shock.

1. Test and balance the water: Use test strips or a liquid test kit to ensure the alkalinity is between 100 parts per million (ppm) and 150 ppm, which 125 ppm being ideal, and the pH is between 7.4 and 7.6, with 7.5 being ideal.
2. Shock the pool: If you’re dealing with just one small stain, a regular dose of shock should take care of the problem. But if you have multiple or large stains, to get rid of them with just one round of shocking, use a triple dose. This means adding 3 pounds of calcium hypochlorite shock for every 10,000 gallons of water.
3. Brush the pool: Use a stiff pool brush to thoroughly scrub the stains. It’s OK if you don’t remove them completely at this point.
4. Run the pump: Allow the shock to circulate throughout the pool for at least eight hours or overnight.
5. Brush the pool again: During those eight hours, or the next day, scrub the stains again.
6. Check the stains: Are they gone? Great, you’re done! Are they still visible? Repeat the process.

Important: Remember always to shock at dusk or night for best results.

Note: If you’re not sure of your pool’s volume, you can use a pool calculator to figure it out.

How To Get Rid of Metal Pool Stains

Metal stains can be a little more difficult to get rid of, but it’s not impossible.

1. Test the water for metals: It’s a good idea to find out what kind of metal has stained your pool. It can make a difference in the type of pool stain remover you need to get. Some home test kits will test for metals, but your best bet is to take a sample of your pool water to your local pool store and ask them to test it for you.
2. Get a metal pool stain remover: Look for one that targets the type of metal that’s stained your pool.
3. Follow the instructions: Each pool stain remover will work a little differently, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the best results.

Preventing Pool Stains

Once you’ve removed those stains, you’ll want to keep them from coming back. It’ll keep your pool looking nice, and will save you the extra work of removing them.

How to Prevent Organic Pool Stains

With just a little pool care, you can keep organic contaminants from making their mark on your pool.

1. Keep the pool water balanced at all times, especially the alkalinity, pH, and sanitizer levels.
2. Practice proper pool cleaning by using an robotic pool cleaner, or by manually vacuuming on a regular basis.
3. Skim the pool surface often to keep leaves, twigs, and other organic debris from sinking to and settling on the bottom of the pool where they can stain.
4. Move plants that bear fruit away from the pool area. If you plan to do some pool landscaping, make sure you plant fruit-bearing trees and shrubs well away from the pool.
5. Check the pool regularly for stains. If you find any, take steps to remove them while they’re still small.

How to Prevent Metal Pool Stains

It’ll take a little more pool maintenance, but you can keep metals from making your pool look ugly.

1. Test your water source for metals. Use a hose filter when filling or refilling your pool if they’re present.
2. Use a metal sequestrant in your pool. This chemical binds with metal particles to keep them from settling on pool surfaces and to make it possible for them to be removed by the pool filter.
3. Maintain your pool plumbing. If any parts of it use copper pipes, check them regularly for corrosion, and replace them when necessary.
4. Keep the pH level in your pool steady. This is especially important if you have copper in your water. A low pH level will make the water acidic, which will corrode copper, oxidize it, and stain your pool.

Important: A metal sequestrant is not a metal pool stain remover. It can help prevent stains by making it easier for metals to be removed from the water. But once you have a metal stain, a sequestrant will not remove it.

Finding a stain in your pool can be dismaying at first. But once you can identify the cause and the source of the stain, you’ll be able to remedy it easily. Then it’s just a matter of preventing future stains.

Still, it’s always a good idea to keep plenty of pool shock and metal pool stain remover on hand, just in case.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Identify and Remove Pool Stains appeared first on Swim University®.

Making pool maintenance mistakes ranks on our personal scale of fun somewhere between tripping on a rake and getting kicked in the tender bits. Owning a swimming pool brings plenty of chances to make pool care mistakes, big or small.

But mistakes are really just opportunities to learn. Educating yourself on the most common pool maintenance mistakes helps you keep your pool safer, cleaner, and running efficiently with less mess and frustration.

Also, if you want to avoid making any of these pool maintenance mistakes in the future, invest in our pool care video course. You’ll learn how to keep your pool consistently clean with proper skimming, vacuuming, and brushing techniques. And we’ll also show you how to keep a simple, regular schedule so your pool will always be clean and clear.

1. Adding Shock Directly Into The Pool Water

The chemical we call pool shock is basically concentrated chlorine. At high strength, chlorine can bleach anything that enters your pool. For example, it can turn black clothes pink and white clothes yellow if the concentration is too high.

Don’t worry—you can’t overshock your pool. But beyond fashion faux pas, adding shock directly to the pool water if you have a vinyl liner can be a disaster. The shock granules will sink the bottom and bleach out your liner. The bleached area becomes brittle and frail, causing leaks.

The Solution

Pre-dissolve the chemical in a bucket of water before you shock your pool. This will allow the shock to disperse more evenly in the water, protecting your liner, pool walls, and floor.

An important rule to remember when you’re avoiding pool maintenance mistakes is “Always add chemicals to water, and never water to chemicals.” Fill the bucket with water first before adding the shock to avoid potentially dangerous splashback.

Also, using warm water will dissolve the shock more easily, but it will also create the awesome-sounding but not-so-awesome-feeling chlorine steam. Slip on your protective eyewear, a chemical mask, and chemical-resistant gloves before you prep your bucket of shock water.

2. Not Brushing Your Pool

You already know how important it is to vacuum your pool regularly to keep scum and gunk from building up and ruining your swim.

But just like your teeth or a hutch of Angora rabbits, your pool needs a good brushing to look its best. Whether you vacuum your pool manually or automatically, follow up with a good brushing.

The Solution

Grab yourself a pool brush and attack your pool’s hard-to-reach areas, including:

• Behind ladders
• Waterline
• Steps and stairs
• Corners and crevices

All this scrubbing keeps algae and other funky, gunky invaders at bay. Brush once a week, or more often if it needs it, for a healthy, pristine pool.

3. Using An Automatic Pool Cleaner When You Have An Algae Problem

Dealing with pool algae is hard enough. Add vacuuming to the list, and you might find yourself thinking it’s time to replace your pool with something less high-maintenance, like a rare orchid farm or a meerkat sanctuary.

It’s tempting, but don’t fire up your robotic cleaner. Pressure-side automatic pool cleaners push algae and other debris up through a mesh bag. This gives the algae a nice little tour of your pool, but doesn’t remove it.

Taking things high-tech won’t help, either. They do an amazing job when algae’s not an issue, but even the best robotic pool cleaners use a fine mesh bag that’ll clog with algae—fast. The clogged gunk gets blown around the pool, and you’re back to square one.

The Solution

Solving this very common pool care mistake is easy, though a little more labor-intensive. You’ll need to break out the manual vacuum. Be sure to switch your filter to “waste” or remove the drain plug.

Yes, you’ll lose a fair amount of water, but you’ll also lose the algae. They’ll be vacuumed right out of your pool and out of your life. Here’s our guide to how to vacuum a pool manually.

4. Ignoring Your pH and Alkalinity Levels

Waaaaaay back in your high school science classes, you probably learned about the importance of balanced pH to healthy, happy ecosystems—including your pool. A low pH indicates acidity, while a high one indicates alkalinity. Too much of either is bad news.

If your pool water has a very low pH, it’s very acidic. This might seem like a good thing at first; after all, it’s very hard for algae and other invaders to thrive acidic water. Plus, acidic water sparkles and appears, at first glance, to be pristine and pure.

But as we once found out after eating some really bad gas station sushi, appearances can be deceiving. Low pH can actually damage your pool equipment, including:

• Pool pump and filter
• Vinyl liner
• Heater
• Automatic pool cleaner
• Chemical feeder
• Maintenance equipment
• Solar blanket

The Solution

Our motto? Better living through chemistry. Balancing acidity and alkalinity keeps your pH stable. Because just about anything can skew water chemistry in no time flat, make sure you test your pool water regularly.

Then adjust your levels with pH increaser, alkalinity increaser, and other essential chemicals until everything’s back in balance.

5. Backwashing Your Pool Filter Too Often

Despite its name, backwashing is NOT a secret toddler technique for leaving floaties in your soda. Backwashing cleans the media inside your filter, whether it’s sand or diatomaceous earth (D.E.). Pool water washes funk and gunk out of your filter media, then exits through your filters backwash valve drain port.

Backwashing is an important part of basic pool care, but overdoing it is one of the more common pool maintenance mistakes.

The Solution

Keep an eye on the pressure gauge on your filter tank. Right after you give your filter a thorough backwashing, take note of the pressure gauge. In most cases, it will read between 10 and 15 pounds per square inch (psi), which is the appropriate baseline for optimal filter performance.

Now, this might seem counterintuitive, but the more debris that’s caught by your filter, the better your filter will function—up to a point. Extra debris helps trap finer particles, but the benefits disappear once the buildup raises your pressure reading to around 10 psi over your baseline (i.e., 20 psi–25 psi).

When the pressure in your filter hits 10 psi over normal, you’ve probably got a nice dose of extra goop in there raising the pressure. Backwash that bad boy, and bring the pressure back down to keep your system humming along at peak efficiency.

6. Adding Pool Shock Through Your Skimmer

Some pool maintenance mistakes are relatively minor. But since making this one can literally blow up your pool’s filter system, we recommend avoiding it at all costs.

Combining calcium hypochlorite or dichlor pool shock and chlorine creates a deadly gas. If you have an automatic chlorinator attached to your filter system and you pour the shock into the skimmer, the two chemicals will combine in a very small space.

The result?

Tiny chamber + deadly gas expansion = BOOM.

The Solution

Keep your pool shock and your skimmer far, far away from one another. Always add your shock following the manufacturer’s directions, while wearing appropriate safety gear.

7. Shocking Your Swimming Pool During The Day

Chlorine in your pool water attaches itself to particles it wants to kill, leaving behind chemical compounds called chloramines. Since they irritate the eyes and skin and generally make life miserable, chloramines don’t belong in your pool.

Shocking gets rid of chloramines and helps bring your pool’s chlorine levels to a well-balanced 3 parts per million (ppm).

But while daytime is great for enjoying your pool, it’s the wrong time to shock. See, shock is unstabilized chlorine. The sun, which is not kind to pool shock at all, will burn off 1 ppm each hour, reducing the efficiency of your chemicals, and wasting your money.

The Solution

Shock at night to give your pool shock the time it needs to do its job. Also, shock your pool once a week, using about 1 lb. (.5 kg) of shock for every 10,000 gallons (37,854 L) of water, and test until you’re at or near the target of 3 ppm.

8. Not Leveraging the Calcium Hardness In Your Pool Water

As with pH, balancing your water’s calcium hardness is essential to a clear, clean, and safe swimming pool. And while you don’t want too much because it’ll cloud the water, a little hardness is actually a good thing.

It helps extend the lifespan of things like vinyl liners, concrete, plaster, fiberglass, and filters.

The Solution

You can add calcium hardness increaser to keep your calcium hardness at the recommended level of 175 ppm to 225 ppm (200 ppm to 275 ppm for concrete and plaster pools). Add it when you open your pool to get the level where you want it. Check it often throughout the swim season, since evaporation and splash out can drop the levels too low.

Oh, and if you use calcium hypochlorite shock, you’re actually adding a little bit of calcium each time you use it. It’s a bit of a twofer for the thrifty pool owner, because it shocks and helps prolong the life of your pool equipment. Nice.

9. Running Your Pool Filter System Fewer Than Eight Hours A Day

Your pool’s filter can’t do its job if it’s not running. The more you run your pool filter, the fewer contaminants and critters can create headaches. As pool care mistakes go, this one’s pretty minor, but it’s still worth your time to clock that filter.

The Solution

Run your pool filter and pump at LEAST eight hours a day. Depending on the size of your pool, this should be plenty of time for all of the water to pass through the filter, keeping your water clearer.

10. Neglecting To Test Your Pool Water Weekly

Owning a pool comes with a whole list of chores to complete every day, week, month, and year. Your weekly water testing is one of the most important, since it can tip you off to small issues in your pool’s water chemistry before they blossom into major disasters.

The Solution

Test your pool water at least once a week, either with test strips or a liquid test kit. Then take a sample of your pool water to your local pool supply store to get a detailed analysis at least once a month.

The primary levels you should be testing for are:

• pH and alkalinity
• Calcium hardness
• Cyanuric acid (chlorine stabilizer)
• Salt and total dissolved solids (TDS) levels
• Copper and iron

You don’t need a complete, CSI-style workup every week, but definitely check your alkalinity, pH, and free chlorine levels, since they’re the core components of safe, sanitary pool water.

11. Wearing Street Clothes in Your Pool

Listen, we’re no strangers to fashion-forward trends. We can rock the majestic weirdness of a romphim with the best of ’em. We even thought about picking up one of those Lady Gaga swan dresses for casual Fridays a few years back. But we draw the line at street clothes in pools.

Wearing your everyday duds in the pool can introduce chemicals, fibers, and other contaminants to your water. Plus, the chemicals in your water can actually ruin your clothes. Your water will be compromised, and everyone in the neighborhood will wonder why you’re suddenly so into the tie-dyed look.

The Solution

Keep your clothes streetside and stick to swimsuits in the pool.

Every Mistake Holds a Lesson for Better Pool Care

Nobody’s perfect. From poor water chemistry to letting your Uncle Hank test his experimental beer-powered algae extractor, we all make pool maintenance mistakes.

But every goof is a new lesson on improving your pool care game. And if you take the time to learn from the mistakes of others, you’ll find you’re spending less time maintaining your pool, and more time enjoying it.

Happy Swimming!

The post 11 Common Pool Maintenance Mistakes appeared first on Swim University®.

Picture this: You wake up to a loud sound coming from your back yard. It’s a piercing noise that hurts your ears, like nails on a chalkboard times ten. You run outside and find the noise is coming from your pool pump, and it stops when you turn the pump off. But that relief is only temporary because now you know you’re going to be shopping for a new pump in the morning.

Whether this is familiar, or your pump just suddenly died, or you need a new pump for a new pool, you want to choose the best one for your pool and your budget. And remember, you’re making a long-term investment in your pool’s health. The key is knowing what your pool needs, and what features to look for. And while you’re at it, don’t forget to brush up on some pool pump troubleshooting for those inevitable problems that will crop up.

What Does a Pool Pump Do?

It’s the heart of your pool’s plumbing system. Without it, you won’t have any pool circulation, and water won’t flow through your filtration system to be properly cleaned. And that means, a dirty, nasty pool full of stagnant water. Basically a cement pond, but one you don’t really want to swim in.

Pool Pump Anatomy

Before you start looking for a new pump, it’ll be helpful to understand how it works. A pool pump comprises three main components: the housing, the impeller, and the motor.

The housing consists of a bucket and basket with a clear lid on top. Pool water is sucked into this bucket, through the basket, and up to the filter.

The impeller is a fast-spinning, inverted blade that sucks the water in and pushes it through to the filter.

The motor is attached to the back of the pump housing, and its sole purpose is to spin the impeller. You’ll sometimes hear it referred to as the pump and motor, or just the pump.

Pool Pump Types

Since they were first invented, pool pumps have come a long way, and have evolved from just one to three types on the market.

Single-Speed Pumps

The original of the three, the single-speed refers to the fact that the motor spins the impeller at only one speed according to the horsepower of the motor.

If you are replacing a single-speed pool pump, we recommend you upgrade to at least a dual-speed or better. They’re more efficient, and they turn the pool water over more quickly.

But there’s something else to be aware of. Some states, such as Arizona and California, prohibit the installation of new single-speed pool pumps.

Check with your state before you buy a new pool pump.

Dual-Speed Pumps

As the name implies, these pumps have two speeds: low and high. The high speed equates to that of a single-speed pump. The lower speed uses less energy, but may not be as efficient at water turnover. This will depend on your pool’s volume.

Variable-Speed Pumps

Yes, these pumps are more expensive than single- or dual-speed pumps, and rightfully so. This where that long-term investment in your pool comes in.

Instead of an induction motor like the other types have, a variable speed pool pump uses a permanent magnet motor, the kind used in electric cars. A magnet motor creates less friction than an induction motor. Less motor friction equals higher efficiency.

Variable-speed pumps also consume less power and turn the water over more quickly. They also run at lower revolutions per minute (RPM) than single- and dual-speed pumps, so they’re quieter. You may even get a utility rebate when you buy one.

Pool Pump Features to Look For

You may know which type you want, but before you make the final decision, be sure you’re choosing a pool pump with the right features for your setup.

Inground or Above Ground

You can find pumps for both above ground and inground pools. While they’re usually interchangeable, it’s best to get a pool pump designed for your type of swimming pool.

Horsepower

The more powerful your pool pump is—meaning, the more horsepower it has—the faster it will turn the water over, so you can run it less often and for shorter periods of time.

But this also depends on the size of your filter and the filtration system’s pipes. A pump with too much horsepower can overwhelm a small filter. But if your system uses three-inch pipes, you can install a three-horsepower pump, which will work more quickly.

But three horsepower can be too much if you have a small pool, which will just waste energy and cost more money. Be sure to choose a pump that won’t overwhelm the filtration system, but still has enough horsepower to turn over your pool’s volume at an adequate rate.

Pump Housing Mount

You have two options here: top mount or side mount. This indicates where the pool pump’s output—which leads into the filter—is located.

If your filter’s intake is positioned above the pump, you need a top mount. If the filter intake is located next to the pump, you need a side mount.

Be sure you check your filter’s intake position before you buy a pool pump to make sure the housing mount is in the correct place.

Pump Motor Voltage

Your pool pump can either be hardwired into your electrical system or it may require an outlet to plug into. Know what you’re getting into before buying your pump.

You’ll also need to determine whether the pump runs on 110 volts or 220 volts. Most above ground pools require a 110-volt pump. But you’ll need to determine what voltage you’re working with if you have an inground pool.

How to Choose the Right Size Pool Pump

To remain clean and clear, all the water in your pool must be completely filtered at least once a day. This is called the turnover rate. Your pump must be large enough to turn over your pool’s full volume at least once per day.

To calculate your pump’s turnover rate, you’ll first need to calculate your pool’s volume. If you’re not sure how to do this, use our pool calculator to figure it out:

Once you have your pool’s volume, divide it by eight to determine the number of gallons per hour (GPH) that need to be pumped through the filter.

But instead of GPH, most pool pumps go by gallons per minute. To get that figure, divide the GPH by 60 to calculate how many gallons per minute (GPM) need to be pumped for full turnover.

So your formulae will be:

Total Pool Volume ÷ 8 = GPH

GPH ÷ 60 = GPM

It won’t be as accurate as using a calculator or doing the math, but you can also get an idea of your pool’s volume here:

Once you have all the numbers, you can find the size of pump that will accommodate the GPM required for your pool and turn over the pool’s water in one eight-hour period. If you have to choose one that pumps a little more than necessary, that won’t cause any problems. Just don’t go below the required GPM, and you’ll be fine.

Pool Pump Troubleshooting

It’d be great if your pump just ran forever and never encountered any problems, right? Heck, it’d be great if everything worked that way.

But the time will come when your pump acts up, and you’ll need to fix it. Knowing some of the most common pump problems will help you deal with them when they occur.

The Pump Is Leaking

The most common causes for pool pump leaks include a bad impeller housing O-ring, bad shaft seal, bad thread sealant, and shrunken threads on the discharge pipe.

In most cases, these parts can be purchased and replaced rather easily at a fraction of the cost of calling a pro. Determine which part is leaking, take the system apart, replace it, and you will be back up and running in no time.

The Pump Fails to Pull Water

When water isn’t being pulled in to the pump, it can’t reach the filter and pass through the system properly. The first thing to look for is a clog in the system.

First, check the skimmer and the pump baskets to make sure they’re not clogged. Next, check the impeller for debris impeding its movement. Open up the pump and clear away any debris.

Another potential cause can be an air leak in the suction line. Since air has less mass than water, the pump will suck in air instead of water. Check the lines for leaks and patch up any you find.

The Motor Won’t Start

The first thing to check is the breaker to make sure it hasn’t been tripped. If the breaker is on, but the pump still won’t turn on, there’s likely an electrical problem, and you may have to replace the motor.

Note: If you’re not comfortable working with electrical systems, this may be an instance where calling in a pro is the best choice.

The Motor Spontaneously Turns Off

If this happens, the motor is most likely overheated. Check the pump’s air vents to make sure nothing is obstructing air flow. If it continues to happen, you may want to install something to shade the pump, if possible.

If the problem persists, it could be an electrical issue, and you may want to call in a pro, unless you’re an electrician.

The Pump Motor is Making Noise

All pump motors will make some noise. But if your pump is making a racket that sounds different from when it’s running normally, you could have a problem.

If it’s just vibration, placing the pump on a rubber pad may do the trick. But if it’s a low, growling sound, the problem could be cavitation, which means the pump isn’t getting enough water, and is taking in air.

First, prime the pool pump.

If priming the pump doesn’t stop the noise, check the intake lines for clogs, and make sure none of the lines are leaking. Once those things are fixed, the pump should quiet down.

If the pump is making a screaming noise, it’s likely the bearings have gone bad. Or it’s being terrorized by the neighborhood’s feral cats. But it’s probably the bearings. If so, you’ll need to replace them.

While the parts are inexpensive, this fix will require quite a bit of labor as the motor will have to be shut off, disconnected, and disassembled. So have your tools ready for this one.

Don’t Hesitate to Call a Pro

If you can repair it, you have the tools you need to do it properly, and you’re comfortable taking apart a pump motor or working with an electrical system, by all means do it. The DIY approach can save you money, plus you get the satisfaction of fixing something yourself.

But if you don’t have the necessary knowledge or skill, or you’re uncomfortable tackling a repair on your own, by all means, call in a professional.

After all, this is the heart of your pool’s plumbing system. If you aren’t confident in your ability, you could actually do more harm than good. Call in a pool pro to take care of the repair the right way the first time.

And hey, you can watch what they do so you might be able to take care of the problem on your own next time.

Best Inground Pool Pumps

Now you can apply all your newfound knowledge to choose the best pool pump for your pool.

Hayward MaxFlo Pool Pump

One of the most energy efficient units available, this pump from Hayward is made for you if you’re looking to reduce your energy costs. It includes a large strainer basket, making it easy to clean, and it can be installed on a variety of pools. You can install it on systems and set it in stand-alone mode or you can connect it to competitive control systems to really take control of your pool’s filtration systems.

Pentair IntelliFlow Pool Pump

Another great entry into the world of energy efficient pumps, this Pentair boasts a 90% efficiency over other types of pumps. On top of that, it’s one of the quietest on this list. If you hate pump noise, then you should consider this model from Pentair. This pump includes eight programmable settings and a timer so you can determine how and when your pump runs. It’s easy to install and maintain and it will save you money along the way as well.

Hayward Super Pump

One of the most reliable pumps on the market, the Hayward Super Pump has made a name for itself because of its reliability. But there is much more to it. It is quiet and energy-efficient and the clear basket that requires no tools to remove making it easy to maintain.

It’s easy to install and with only 4 bolts, it’s very easy to get into to maintain. If you are looking for reliability, this is definitely the pump for you.

Pentair SuperFlo Pump

This self-priming pump is designed to not only be easy to install but also easy to start up. It’s yet another energy efficient entry from Pentair but it’s also powerful. It includes thick walled body parts and a unique hydraulic system that makes it run much quieter than many other pumps. Its basket is large and easy to access to maintenance is simple and its powerful pump will move more water through your system while using less energy in the process.

Best Above Ground Pool Pumps

Remember, while most pool pumps are interchangeable between inground and above ground pools, your best bet is to get one specific to your pool type.

Hayward Power-Flo Above Ground Pool Pump

This pump is made primarily for above ground pools and features a large strainer basket to make it easy to clean out debris during maintenance. It can easily be converted from horizontal to vertical to fit in almost any location and even includes an internal drain plug to make winterizing easy.

Hayward EasyClear Above Ground Pool Filter Pump System

Made for above ground pools that hold up to 24,000 gallons, this pump-filter combo system pumps 4,5000 GPH. Its extruded core design provides maximum water flow while reducing energy costs. It’s high-quality, reinforced polyester elements provide maximum filtration area to easily trap dirt and debris.

Best Intex Pool Pumps

Some Intex pumps can be used for other above ground pools. But if you have an Intex pool, it’s best to get an Intex pump that will work with the entire Intex system.

Intex Krystal Clear 3000GPH Pump

This pump and filter combination is designed to be used with the Intex line of pools but can be adapted to work with other above ground pools as well. This pump will push 3,000 gallons of water per hour, meaning it is designed for the larger Intex pools that measure 16 feet and larger. A built-in timer allows you to set when this pump will run.

Time to Pump It Up!

Keeping the heart of your pool’s circulation system pumping really isn’t difficult. As long as you choose the right kind of pool pump for your filter and pool volume, get the right size, and keep up with maintenance and repairs, your pump should last you a good long time.

And when it’s time to replace the pump, we encourage you to make an investment and buy the best pool pump you can, preferably a variable-speed model. It’ll pay for itself in energy savings, and in your peace of mind.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Select the Best Pool Pump appeared first on Swim University®.

With just a few taps, you can get the pool and hot tub water test results on your smartphone or tablet. Here are our updated recommendations for the best pool and spa chemical calculator apps. Plus, apps to control your swimming pool and/or hot tub.

Pooli (Our Top Pick)

Price: FREE
Compatibility: iOS and Android

We think Pooli is the best pool chemical calculator and pool maintenance app. It looks great and is extremely user-friendly! It has a built-in test strip scanner (using your phone’s camera) that delivers instant water test results based on pool volume. Get your chlorine, pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and cyanuric acid (CYA or stabilizer) readings instantly. And it provides the most affordable solutions, chemicals, and equipment. Download the app here!

PoolMath by TroubleFreePool

Price: $7.99 Premium Subscription In-App Purchase
Compatibility: iOS and Android

A simple pool water chemistry tracking app made by the popular TroubleFreePool forum. Track all your pool water tests and it’ll tell you exactly how much of each chemical you need to add. It follows the TroubleFreePool method (BBB). Download the app now!

Clorox Pool App

Price: FREE
Compatibility: iOS and Android

Pool owners can use this free, easy-to-use app to scan test strips to provide expert water test analysis. You can also use the app to troubleshoot pool problems, get personalized recommendations, and shop for Clorox products. Download the app here!

Pool Dash

Price: FREE
Compatibility: iOS only

Pool Dash is one of the nicest-looking pool chemical calculators. It’s an easy-to-use app for entering your water test results and spitting out the proper amount of chemicals you need to add to your swimming pool. And a lot of Swim University articles are available right inside the app. Download the app now!

The Pool Doctor feature can check and change chlorine, salt, and pH levels. You can also choose what chemicals to use to keep your pool clean. The app can show you the results in different units, like gallons or pounds. It works for many types of pools, like salt water or copper. You can save your results and even send them to someone else if you want to.

Looking for a full in-depth video course on swimming pool maintenance? Check out The Pool Maintenance Video Course and become a pool care master at effortlessly keeping your water clean and clear all season.

Sutro Smart Water Monitor

Price: $29.99/month
Compatibility: iOS and Android

Easily the sexist pool maintenance product ever made! But that’s just the tip (and that’s what she said)! The device measures, monitors, and sends you chemical recommendations to your smartphone. It measures pH, chlorine, and alkalinity three times a day. Try Sutro today!

pHin Smart Water Monitor by Hayward

Price: $349
Compatibility: iOS and Android

pHin is a smart pool and hot tub monitor that automatically measures your water temperature, sanitizer, and pH levels. It analyzes the data and recommends what chemicals to add. It works with chlorine, salt, and bromine. Start using pHin here.

iAquaLink 2.0 by Jandy

Price: FREE for iAquaLink products
Compatibility: iOS and Android

The Jandy iAquaLink system is one of the planet’s most advanced pool management devices. If your pool has a Jandy iAquaLink system installed, you can use the mobile app to manage everything about your pool. Things like lights, pumps, and temperature are easily changed right from your smartphone or tablet. Download App Now!

ScreenLogic by Pentair

Price: FREE for IntelliTouch® and EasyTouch®
Compatibility: iOS and Android

The Pentair ScreenLogic app works much like the Zodiac App but works with the Pentair pump control systems. It supports changing all of your pool settings on the fly if you have the supported Pentair pump system.Download App Now!

CloudControl by Bullfrog Spas

Price: FREE if you have a Bullfrog Spa
Compatibility: iOS and Android

The Cloud Control app will let you control your Bullfrog spa right from your smartphone or tablet. It’s compatible with both iOS and Android devices and will let you control a wide variety of hot tub settings from almost anywhere. Adjust your pump and filtration settings, change the temperature, and much more all from your smartphone with this handy little app created specifically for Bullfrog spas. Download App Now!

It has never been easier to transform your pool into a smart pool than it is today. With these apps, you can simplify your pool care so you can spend more time swimming than you do taking care of your pool. While it won’t eliminate the work, it will make it go much faster.

Happy Swimming!

The post The Best Pool Chemical Calculator Apps appeared first on Swim University®.

Chlorine tablets are one of the most convenient, hands-free ways to sanitize your pool. Unlike liquid chlorine or granular chlorine, chlorine tablets (also known as chlorine pucks) dissolve slowly over time. Coming in two sizes (either 1-inch or 3-inch pucks), chlorine tablets are pre-dosed and already contain a chlorine stabilizer (a.k.a. cyanuric acid or CYA).

If you have a larger pool that’s over 5,000 gallons, you’ll want to use 3-inch chlorine tablets.

But if you have a smaller pool, like an Intex pool or a pool 5,000 or less, you’ll want to use 1-inch chlorine tablets instead. While technically you can use a single 3-inch puck for 5,000 gallons of water, it’s easy to accidentally over-chlorinate if your tablets are too large.

In the right applicator, like an automatic chlorinator, chlorine tablets provide a steady supply of chlorine to your pool water. And they’re easier to handle and store than granular or liquid chlorine.

But there are some downsides to chlorine pucks. They can drastically lower your pH and alkalinity levels, which can irritate swimmer skin and eyes and erode pool surfaces and equipment. They can also raise your cyanuric acid levels over time since each puck is stabilized. And high cyanuric acid levels can impact your chlorine’s effectiveness. It all depends on what chlorine tablets you use, how you add them to your pool, and how often you test your water.

So here’s how to choose the right chlorine tablets based on your pool size and how to add them safely.

What’s the Difference Between Chlorine Tablets and Other Types of Chlorine?

Pool chlorine comes in three common forms: tablets, granules, and liquid.

• Chlorine Tablets: Also known as pucks, chlorine tablets contain chlorine and a stabilizing component like cyanuric acid or CYA. They usually come in 1-inch or 3-inch pucks and are placed in floating dispensers, pool skimmers, or automatic chlorinators. Because these pucks are slower dissolving and provide sustained chlorination, they’re more convenient compared to adding granules. Trichlor chlorine tablets contain up to 90 percent chlorine (compared to granules). They will also affect your pool’s pH and alkalinity.
• Chlorine Granules: Granular chlorine dissolves quickly in water, helping fight algae and contaminants fast. It’s added directly to your pool, giving you complete control of the dosage. But since you have to measure and add it yourself, it’s more dangerous and cumbersome to handle. And granules won’t work in automatic feeders, since they dissolve too quickly. Granules are usually made of dichlor chlorine, containing a lower percentage of chlorine than tablets (around 60 percent).
• Liquid Chlorine: Liquid chlorine or bleach contains the same main ingredient as other pool chlorine (sodium hypochlorite). It’s cheaper than tablets and granules, but it’s unstabilized. That means you’ll need to add a stabilizer, also known as cyanuric acid, to protect the chlorine from breaking down in the sun. And this type of chlorine has an extremely high pH and is highly corrosive. Finally, it doesn’t have a long shelf life and you’ll need to add a lot of it since liquid chlorine only contains 10-12% chlorine and bleach only contains 3-6% chlorine.

If you’re still feeling confused about water chemistry and how to add chemicals to your pool, check out our Pool Care Video Course. It’s a step-by-step guide to help you keep your water balanced and sanitized (without overcomplicating things).

How to Choose the Right Chlorine Tablet Size: 3-Inch vs. 1-inch

Tablets typically come in two sizes: 3-inch or 1-inch chlorine tablets. As a general rule, one 3-inch tablet will sanitize 5,000 gallons of pool water.

One-inch tablets dissolve more quickly since they are smaller and have less surface area for the water to pass over. They’re great for smaller pools. While you technically could add a single 3-inch puck to a 5,000-gallon pool, it’s easy to over-chlorinate a smaller body of water. Using multiple 1-inch tablets is a better way to control dosing.

Three-inch tablets, on the other hand, are easier to handle and dissolve more slowly than 1-inch tablets. They’re better for larger pools since a single 3-inch tablet can sanitize up to 5,000 gallons. And they’re the best size to use in an automatic chlorinator.

While this is a more hands-off approach to sanitizing your pool, you’ll still have to regularly measure your water chemistry levels. Remember, chlorine tablets can lower pH and alkalinity levels and raise your cyanuric acid levels over time.

If you don’t already know how much water your pool holds, check out our easy-to-use pool calculator to figure out your pool volume.

How to Choose the Best Chlorine Tablets for Your Pool

Regardless of the brand you choose, most chlorine tablets are made of trichlor chlorine. Containing up to 90 percent chlorine, solid trichlor chlorine tablets also contain cyanuric acid (CYA) that stabilizes the chlorine and protects it from breaking down in the sun. Once a tablet dissolves in the pool water, the treatment resists degradation under direct sunlight and UV light, slowing the production of chloramines.

Most chlorine tablets contain the same ingredients, so you won’t see many variables across brands. But be sure to double-check the ingredients and the size of the tablets (1-inch vs. 3-inch). And make sure that your chlorine pucks come in a properly sealed container or bucket. Some chlorine tablets come individually wrapped inside the containers as well.

How to Add Chlorine Tablets to Your Pool

There are three common ways to use pool tablets: using an automatic chlorinator, inside a floating dispenser, or placed in your skimmer basket. Keep in mind that other things like your pool water temperature and water pressure can impact the amount of time it takes your tablet to dissolve. And a larger, 3-inch tablet will break down more slowly than a 1-inch tablet. We recommend using an automatic chlorinator or a floater for your chlorine tablets.

• Automatic Chlorinators (Best Option): An automatic chlorinator, also known as a chemical feeder, is the most reliable option for using chlorine tablets. Simply add several tablets to the chlorinator and set the rate you want the tablets to dissolve. Installed directly into your pump and filter system, a chlorinator disperses a steady, measured amount of chlorine or bromine into the water right before it returns to your pool. Chlorinators use water pressure to dissolve pucks at a steady rate. Keep in mind that these pucks or tablets will only dissolve in your chlorinator when your pool pump is running. If your pump is on a timer and turns off, your tablet will not dissolve and therefore it won’t disperse into your pool.

• Floating Dispensers (Second Best Option): Floating dispensers are plastic pool gadgets that travel around your pool, dispersing sanitizer as the tablets inside dissolve. They’re convenient and low-maintenance. But they dispense chlorine or bromine unevenly, which means your levels may fluctuate. They can also get stuck in one spot in your pool, like behind ladders, causing them to dispense too much sanitizer in one spot. And that can discolor and even damage your pool liner.

• Tablets Inside the Skimmer Basket (Not Recommended): With a continuous water flow through the filter, placing tablets in your skimmer provides a steadier rate of dissolving. As water flows through, it will break down the tablet and send sanitized water through your filter system and back into your pool. But the tablets will continue to dissolve even when the filter isn’t running. Sanitizer can collect in and near the skimmer basket, causing stains, erosion, and even equipment damage.

Whenever adding chlorine tablets to your water, be sure to test and balance your other chemical levels. Make sure your alkalinity is between 100 and 150 PPM and your pH is between 7.4 and 7.6. Your alkalinity will impact your pH, and your pH can impact the effectiveness of your chlorine. Also, be sure your cyanuric acid levels should be between 30 and 50 PPM. Adding chlorine tablets to your pool water increases your CYA levels.

If you need more help with pool chemistry, check out our guide on Basic Pool Chemistry 101.

How Many Chlorine Tablets Should I Use in my Pool?

A 3-inch chlorine tablet can sanitize up to 5,000 gallons of water. So if you have a 20,000-gallon pool, you’ll want to use four 3-inch chlorine tablets. To calculate the right number of tablets, round your pool volume up to the nearest 5,000 gallons. And if you have a smaller pool (under 10,000 gallons), consider using 1-inch chlorine tablets. It’s easy to over-chlorinate a smaller body of water.

Check your automatic chlorinator or floater each week and test your water chemistry using a test strip or liquid test kit. Balance your pH and alkalinity and monitor your chlorine and cyanuric acid levels. If your chlorine or CYA are too high, you’ll need to use less chlorine tablets or adjust the settings on your dispenser. Refill your dispenser with chlorine pucks as needed each week.

The post The Best Chlorine Tablets for Your Pool (and How to Safely Add Them) appeared first on Swim University®.

There are two types of pool brushes: stainless steel and nylon bristle brushes. And the best one for you depends on the type of pool you own:

• Stainless steel brushes, also known as algae brushes, are best for unpainted concrete or gunite pools. Algae spores cling inside the crevices of porous surfaces like concrete, so a heavy-duty brush works better than a softer one.
• Nylon bristle brushes are best for vinyl liners, fiberglass, and painted concrete pools. These brushes will help remove algae without damaging your pool floor or walls.

In addition to a brush, you’ll want to own a telescopic pole. Attaching your brush head to an extendable aluminum pole will help you reach every inch of your pool walls, floor, and steps where algae may be clinging to.

Keep reading for a quick guide on the right way to brush and clean your pool surfaces.

How Often Should You Brush Your Pool?

Brush your pool once a week to remove algae spores, dirt, and bacteria from your pool surfaces. This helps your sanitizer and pool filter to kill or capture any contaminants that were clinging to your walls.

Once the contaminants or algae spores are floating in your pool water, your chlorine has a better chance of killing them. And by brushing regularly, any contaminants that were clinging to your pool floors or walls can pass through your filter system, where they can be captured.

Without weekly brushing, you’ll likely have pockets of contaminants that can fester into larger issues.

By the way, if you need more help tackling issues like cloudy water and algae, be sure to check out our Pool Care Video Course.

Best Pool Brushes

There are two types of pool brushes: nylon bristles and stainless steel bristles. But as we mentioned, the type of brush you need depends on the type of pool your own.

For Unpainted Concrete Pools or Gunite Pools: Use a stainless steel bristle brush. Also known as an algae brush, this removes contaminants lodged inside porous surfaces. It’s usually the best choice for inground pool owners.

For Fiberglass, Vinyl, or Painted Concrete Pools: Use a brush with nylon bristles only. Stainless steel will damage your pool surfaces, so a softer nylon brush is needed. This is usually best for above ground pool owners. Just be sure to buy a brush with an aluminum back, since other materials will corrode in pool water over time.

Like any pool supply, you get what you pay for. So purchase a quality scrub brush since cheaper brushes (like Intex brand) tend to break. And be sure you own a telescopic pole with a sturdy, aluminum handle that fits your brush head.

How to Brush Your Pool

Once a week, brush the walls, ladders, and corners of your pool. Be sure to get into every nook and cranny possible to brush away any lurking algae formations. And don’t forget to break up any potential buildup on your pool floor.

Brushing will push any algae spores into the water, making it easier for chlorine or other sanitizers to kill the spores. So get into any areas where contaminants might be accumulating or where there’s not a lot of flow or circulation. These are known as “Dead Zones” and are located away from return jets and skimmers. Be sure to check out our guide on Pool Circulation for more help identifying your pool’s dead zones.

Unfortunately, if your pool has already developed a serious algae problem, brushing isn’t going to solve the problem. You’ll need to shock and vacuum your pool after brushing. Be sure to check out our guide on How to Clear a Green Pool for step-by-step help.

Other Tools to Keep Your Pool Clean

In addition to a heavy-duty brush and telescopic pole, you’ll need a skimmer or leaf net and a manual vacuum head and vacuum hose. The right pool cleaner brush, pool skimmer, and pool vacuum are critical for proper pool maintenance  For a quick tutorial on keeping your pool clean, check out our Pool Cleaning 101 guide.

You do not need a separate wall brush, corner brush, or floor brush. The best brush should cover a combo of your pool walls, corners, and floors. Look for an extra-wide swimming pool brush with slightly curved edges on the ends or a brush with bristles on the sides. Brushes without a soft bumper or curved edges will increase the chances of damaging a fiberglass or vinyl pool. And whatever brush head you buy, be sure the clip handle works with a standard telescopic pool pole.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post The Best Pool Brush for Removing Hidden Algae appeared first on Swim University®.

The right solar pool heater for your above ground pool needs to be effective, energy-efficient, and take little to no money to heat your water.

When choosing the best solar heating system for your swimming pool, you need to think about your local climate, the length of your swim season, the size of your pool, and the cost to purchase and install a solar heating system.

With these things in mind, our pick for the best solar heater for above ground pools is the SunHeater S220 Solar Pool Heater. It’s built with the ability to connect multiple panels together, letting you customize how powerful you need your solar heater.

For smaller, pre-mounted options, we recommend either the  GAME 72000-BB SolarPRO or the very affordable Goplus Solar Dome.

Remember that solar heaters require plenty of sunny days to have enough energy to heat your pool. That’s why they’re best suited for areas with lots of sunshine and where winters are mild.

So if you’re in a colder climate with a limited swim season, or if you want to heat your water faster, you’ll need an electric pool heater or gas pool heater. They can heat more water in less time compared to solar.

Want to build your own solar heater? We have a step-by-step walkthrough on How To Build a DIY Solar Pool Heater for Less Than $100.

If you still want help deciding on the best heater to buy for your pool, here’s our complete guide to above ground pool solar pool heaters and how to pick the right one.

FYI: We’re a small team of pool industry experts and researchers that care about recommending quality, reliable pool products. If you do choose to click a link and buy any of the products we recommend, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Best Solar Pool Heater: SunHeater S220

The SunHeater S220 Solar Heating System maximizes solar collection with its flat-panel style tubing. Since this solar heater uses your existing pool pump, it should be installed near your pool. And while its versatility gives you plenty of options and is easy to set up, it does not come mounted on anything. That means you’ll need space to lay it flat, like on a rooftop or deck.

A single installation kit comes with one panel that measures 2’ x 20’ (40 sq. ft.). So it’s perfect for heating above ground pools that are 24’ round pools or 15’ x 30’ oval pools. But keep in mind that additional units will be necessary to heat larger pools.

Best Smaller Solar Pool Heater: GAME 72000-BB SolarPRO

The SolarPRO is a great option for those with smaller pools and limited space. Since it’s a curved solar pool heater, it allows it to maximize heat collection throughout the day. It also keeps the solar unit from killing your grass. And the adjustable legs make it compatible with multiple manufacturers, such as Intex and Bestway.

An 8,000-gallon pool can expect an increase of five degrees over several days. If you have a larger pool or need more heating power, it’s possible to add more solar panels to the system. But this might not be the most effective solution. And purchasing multiple units also means you’ll need bypass kits.

By the way, if you need more help taking care of your above ground pool, be sure to check out our Pool Care Video Course!

Best Budget Solar Heater: Goplus Solar Dome

As one of the cheaper options out there, the Goplus Solar Dome is a cost-effective way to heat a small pool. The dome style provides a compact size while maximizing the energy collection surface. And at only 11 pounds per unit, it’s easy to fit multiple units together if you want more power.

Each dome features rotatable hose connectors and foldable support legs. So it’s easy to adjust toward the sun and convenient to store. But because the hoses are only 38.5’’ long, you’ll need to install the system near the pool itself. And it won’t work for rooftop installation.

A single unit can heat a 6,000-gallon pool by 5 to 10 degrees. But with additional kits required for larger pools.

How Do Solar Pool Heaters Work?

Solar pool heaters work by directing your pool water through a series of valves to reach your solar collectors, which are solar panels. Water enters the collectors and is heated by solar energy. The heated water returns to the pool. The cycle repeats itself until the pool reaches your desired temperature.

Even though solar heaters are made from several types of materials, polymer systems are most common for above ground pools.

Polymer Solar Heating Systems

Polymer systems can be made out of PVC, polypropylene, rubber, plastic, and more. You can find them in mat and coil configurations, these are the most common options for above-ground pools. Many are affordably priced and offer an easy installation process. And they can usually be mounted on the ground close to the pool or on a rooftop or deck.

However, these models aren’t suitable for areas where below-freezing temperatures are common and require seasonal draining. This can damage the solar heater material.

Flat vs. Mounted Solar Heaters

With polymer systems, you’ll find either flat-lying or pre-mounted options. With a mounted model, like a dome, the system comes already tilted towards the sun and off the ground. This makes setup extremely easy. Also, dome configurations are also better for tight spaces where you don’t have the space to lie down a full mat. However, flat-lying options can collect more sunlight and can be mounted on sunny spots like a rooftop.

How To Choose The Best Solar Pool Heater

There are several considerations to keep in mind, including your access to sunlight and how much space you have around your pool.

Local Climate and Pool Season

The warmer your outdoor air is, the less your pool heater will have to work. That also means you can get by with a smaller pool heater. If you have a small pool or a short swimming season, solar heating panels are an eco-friendly way to heat your pool.

But if you’re in a cooler climate, a solar pool heater, even with multiple panels, may not be enough to help you achieve a comfortable water temperature. Solar heaters can only increase the temp by about 12 degrees, max.

Pool Size

The larger your pool, the more solar panels you’ll need to achieve the correct temperature. If you’re in a naturally cooler climate, it may not be possible to achieve it with solar alone.

It’s not just the size of your pool that matters – it’s also the size of the panels, and whether you have an open pool, screened pool, or shaded pool. For roof installations, you also have to account for the size of each panel.

For the basic solar domes and solar mats, one unit will heat a 6,000 to 8,000-gallon pool. Read manufacturer’s descriptions carefully, as the bypass kits you need to connect multiple units may need to be purchased separately.

Pool Heater Location

With solar pool heating systems, you could have a solar dome or mat on the ground next to the pool. Or you could have it raised off the ground nearby. Many kits allow for roof or rack installation. If you do a rack installation, you’ll need an area large enough to hold all the panels that also gets the necessary sun exposure.

Installation Requirements

Solar heaters are the easiest for DIY installations, but they still require planning, and the installation itself is time-consuming. With the right tools and adequate space on your property, you can take care of it.

Winterization

You must completely remove your solar heater from your pool to winterize it safely. This means turning off your circulating system and allowing the solar collectors and pipes to drain. Check all connectors, bypass valves, etc. Store the components in a dry place. If you’re planning on keeping everything in the basement or garage, it’s a good idea to keep it all in a box to protect the system from rodents.

If you run a year-round swimming season, shut the panels down if a hard freeze is expected.

Maintenance

The biggest part of maintaining your solar pool heater involves taking care of your pool and filtration system. Keep the filter clean and the chemicals balanced to ensure proper water flow goes to the collectors.

Frequently Asked Questions About Solar Pool Heaters

Need more help picking out the right solar heater? Here are some commonly asked questions and answers.

What size solar pool heater do I need to heat my above ground pool?

Choosing the right solar pool heater size depends on the solar panel’s surface area and the size of your pool. You’ll need enough solar paneling or tubing to equal 50% of your pool’s surface area. For example, if your pool’s surface area is 600 square feet, you’ll need 300 square feet of solar panels or tubing to heat it. Smaller above ground swimming pools of up to 8,000 gallons can get by with one unit. Larger pools require additional units with bypass kits. You’ll also need to consider local landscape features and how much sunlight you get.

Is solar pool heating worth it?

Solar heating is a cost-effective way to gradually boost your pool’s water temperature. In warmer climates where there are plenty of sunny days, it’s an energy-efficient way to keep your pool warm. But if you’re in a cooler climate, solar heating isn’t as effective as gas or electric pool heaters. To maximize solar pool heat, use a solar pool cover. This will help prevent evaporation and heat loss, especially at night.

How much warmer does solar heating make a pool?

Compared to an unheated pool, a solar pool water heater is on average, 8 to 12 degrees warmer. But that can be over the course of several days of heating. And your pool will still lose heat on cloudy days and overnight. Using a solar cover helps to reduce heat loss, but won’t completely prevent it.

How can I heat my above-ground pool fast?

If you need to warm your above-ground pool quickly, it’s most effective to use a gas pool heater or an electric heat pump. Pool solar panels are designed to heat the water gradually, over a period of several days. Gas and electric models can heat a larger volume of water over a period of hours.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Best Solar Heaters for Above Ground Pools of 2023 appeared first on Swim University®.