Salt water above ground pools are usually easier to maintain and use fewer chemicals than traditional chlorine pools. Whether you want to convert your existing pool or add a salt water system to a new pool, there are a few things to keep in mind:

• Buy a salt water system that’s 1.5x your pool size. If you have a 10,000-gallon pool, you’ll want to purchase a system with at least a 15,000-gallon capacity.
• Make sure your pump can handle your new salt system. Check with the manufacturer to see what pump requirements they have.
• Purchase from a reputable company. If you need to replace or repair any part of your system, you’ll want a company that has available parts or a warranty.

With that in mind, we recommend the Hayward Goldline AquaTrol Salt System. Hayward is a well-known, reliable pool company that’s known for manufacturing consistently dependable pool equipment.

If you have a smaller pool or a tighter budget, check out the Intex Krystal Clear Salt Water System. This is best for smaller pools and will work with brands beyond Intex.

Keep reading for our complete guide on how to buy the right salt water system and a breakdown of each recommendation.

Best Overall: Hayward Goldline AquaTrol

The Hayward Goldline AquaTrol System is an ideal choice for pools of up to 18,000 gallons. It offers a quick and easy installation that can be done in 30 minutes. Abd there’s a digital salt display to show the salt levels in the water at any given time. Finally, the unit also has seven diagnostic indicators and features a super chlorinate function for when you need to shock the pool.

Best Budget Option: Intex Krystal Clear Salt Water System

The Intex Krystal Clear Salt Water System is available in a variety of sizes, with options for pools as small as 2,200 gallons and or as large as 15,000 gallons. It features a 24-hour automatic timer for fully automatic operation, so pool owners don’t have to worry about running the system too much. Adapters are included so the system can work with both Intex and non-Intex pool pumps and filters, including sand filter pumps. However, it requires a pool pump with a flow rate between 700 and 3,000 gallons per hour (GPH). So make sure your pool is equipped accordingly.

By the way, if you need more help understanding your pool equipment and pool chemistry, check out our Pool Care Video Course.

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What to Look for in a Salt Water Pool System

Here’s what to consider when buying a salt water system for your above ground pool.

1. Pool Size vs. Salt Water Generator Capacity

You will need a salt chlorinator with 1.5x to 2x your pool’s maximum capacity. It’s much better to get a larger system than your pool to ensure you have adequate sanitization power. For example, if you have a 20,000-gallon pool and use a system that has a maximum output of 20,000 gallons, you risk overworking your system and burning it out.

2. Chlorine Output

Your salt water system’s chlorine output is measured in pounds per day. And opting for a system with the capacity for a higher chlorine output allows you to keep your water adequately sanitized. It also should let you turn down the system when you need to reduce the sanitization, putting less stress on your system. And if you need a higher output, like after a storm or party, you can crank it up higher as needed. If you’re constantly having to run the system on the maximum output, that’s a sign you might not have enough capacity.

3. Frequency of Pool Use

If you frequently have a lot of people in the water, you’ll need a stronger system. More people means more contaminants, which means you’ll need a powerful system to sanitize your water. Being able to turn up or down your chlorine output helps here.

4. Climate and Environment

If you live in a hot climate, you’ll need a stronger system (especially if your pool gets heavy use in the summer). That’s because heat and sunlight can affect your water chemistry. And if you have lots of plants around your pool, you’ll have more dirt, debris, and bacteria in the water that needs to be cleaned. That means a bigger system. Finally, if you live in a place where heavy rain is frequent, you’ll need more sanitation power. You’ll also want to check the salinity level more often, as rainwater will dilute your salt concentration.

5. Pool Frame and Equipment Compatibility

If your pool has a steel or aluminum frame, do not use a salt chlorine generator system since it will cause corrosion. Other materials, such as vinyl and resin aren’t as susceptible to damage from corrosion. You may be able to replace components with more salt-tolerant pool equipment. Also, check to make sure that your pool filter and heater are compatible with a salt water system.

How to Convert to a Salt Water Pool

Have an above ground pool that you want to convert from a traditional chlorine pool to a salt water system? It’s actually easier than you may think and it doesn’t require any draining.

1. Check for Compatibility

Check to make sure that your pool filter, heater and pump are compatible with your system. While you do not need a special kind of pool pump for a salt water system, it needs to have enough capacity to support your new generator. And remember, a steel or aluminum pool frame will corrode with a salt chlorine generator system.

2. Balance Your Pool Water Chemistry

The good news? You don’t need to completely drain your pool to convert it to salt water. Check your generator installation manual before adjusting your chemicals. But in general, here’s the recommended water chemistry:

• Free chlorine: 1 to 3 ppm
• pH: 7.4 to 7.6
• Alkalinity: 100 to 150 ppm
• Calcium Hardness: 175 to 225 ppm (don’t worry about this level if you take down your pool every year)
• Cyanuric Acid: 30 to 50 ppm. Salt water pool owners may find that running CYA levels up to 80 ppm is helpful for keeping free chlorine levels where they should be. But you can always add more later, so start slow.

3. Install the Chlorinator

You’ll first need to mount the chlorinator controller to the wall near your pool’s equipment pad. Then, wire the controller for power. From there, you’ll connect the generator cell to the plumbing, then connect the cell to the controller. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installing your generator so you don’t void your warranty.

4. Add Pool-Grade Salt to the Water

Your generator won’t start working until you add enough salt to your water. The amount of salt you’ll need to add is based on the water volume. Your generator’s instruction manual should provide a table to help you determine how much salt to add to the pool. But if you need more help, check out our guide on How Much Salt to Add to Your Pool. In general, you’ll need about six or seven 40-pound bags for a 10,000-gallon pool that has no salt in it. Be sure to purchase pool-grade salt.

Broadcast the salt around your pool’s edges, allowing up to 24 hours for it to completely dissolve. Turn on your pool’s pump and filter to allow the salt to circulate through the water. After the salt is dissolved, turn on the salt chlorinator.

Frequently Asked Questions About Above Ground Salt Water Systems

Need more help finding the best salt water pool generator? Here are some common questions and answers.

How is a salt water pool different from a traditional chlorine pool?

A common misconception is that salt water pools don’t use chlorine. But a salt water pool is actually still a chlorine pool. The difference is that a salt water pool uses a salt water chlorine generator to convert pool salt into chlorine through electrolysis. The result is a consistent chlorine level with no need to constantly add chlorine to your pool. The resulting salt in the water is similar to the amount of salt in human tears. That’s about 3,500 parts per million (ppm).

Can you use a salt water system in an above ground pool?

Yes! All that matters is your pool is made out of material that can withstand the salt and that you have a salt water generator designed for an above ground swimming pool. There are systems available specifically for inground pools, which are not used interchangably.

How do I convert my above ground pool to salt water?

After you choose the salt water chlorinator system that is best for your needs, simply adjust your chemicals, install your system, add pool-grade salt and turn on your generator. For a complete step-by-step walkthrough, check out our guide on How to Convert Your Pool to Salt Water.

What equipment is needed for an above ground salt water pool?

All you need is a salt water chlorine system (which contains a control box and a salt cell). In terms of other pool supplies, you’ll need pool-grade salt to add to the water.

How much does a salt water pool system cost?

For an above ground swimming pool, a salt water pool system can be as little as $300 or as high as $2,000. Installation costs vary, depending on location and the size of the pool.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Best Salt Water System for Above Ground Pools appeared first on Swim University®.

Do you actually need a pool closing kit? And are they worth it? Winter pool closing kits usually come with everything you need to keep your pool protected and algae-free in the off-season, including:

• Algaecide
• Enzymes
• Scale and Stain Prevention
• Non-Chlorine Shock
• Other Pool Supplies, like Air Pillows and Time-Release Floaters

These kits are a convenient, all-in-one package to keep your pool clean in the off-season and help pool opening go smoothly in the spring. But you might not necessarily need all of the chemicals inside. So before you buy a kit, here’s a breakdown of what it comes with, which chemicals you actually need to close your pool, and which products you don’t.

How to Prepare Your Pool for Closing

First, whether or not you decide to buy a winter closing kit, you’ll need to do a few things to prepare your pool before adding any winterizing chemicals. And keep in mind that you might need to lower your pool water level below the skimmer, depending on how you plan to winterize your plumbing or what kind of cover you have.

So give yourself a week to complete all of your pool closing tasks, especially if you plan to use chlorine shock. A little extra work now will save you from any pool-opening headaches and algae growth issues in the spring.

1. Skim, brush and vacuum your pool

Anything you leave floating in your water or clinging to your walls will just get worse over the winter, so give your pool one last clean before closing up.

2. Test and balance your water

The goal is to get your water as balanced and healthy as possible before closing. So test your water and adjust your pool chemical levels as you would normally. Pay extra attention to pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness. Your pH and alkalinity levels will help your other chemicals do their job over the winter. And imbalanced calcium hardness levels can damage your pool surfaces or equipment.

By the way, if you feel confused about when and how to add chemicals, check out our Pool Care Video Course.

3. Shock your pool with chlorine

Shocking your water will kill any lingering contaminants, especially algae. A cal-hypo shock is the most powerful chlorine shock treatment, but you’ll need to add it at night and wait at least 8 hours to let it circulate and dissolve. If you want to speed things up, you can use a fast-dissolving chlorine shock, like dichlor shock, or liquid chlorine to shock your water. Just watch your cyanuric acid levels if you use a dichlor shock. Then retest your water and wait until your chlorine levels have dropped back down to add more chemicals.

Pool Closing Kits: Which Chemicals Do You Need to Close Your Pool?

Now that you’ve prepped your pool, it’s time to talk about winterizing chemicals. Here’s what’s in a typical pool closing kit and here’s which of the chemicals and pool supplies you actually need:

1. Winter Algaecide

Adding an algaecide before covering your pool is a great way to prevent green water in the spring. This is especially important if temperatures reach 60°F while you still have your pool cover on. While most kits market their algaecide as a “winter” formula, you might already have the right kind of algaecide on hand. Look for a 60% Polyquat Algaecide. This is non-copper based with a powerful enough concentration to kill algae in the off-season. It’s more expensive than a copper-based algaecide, but it won’t stain. And it won’t foam.

2. Slow-Release Winter Ball or Winter Pill

A Winterizer Ball or Pill slowly releases a blend of enzymes, clarifier, and stain and scale prevention into your water during the off-season. And it won’t affect the rest of your water chemistry. So if you have water with high metal content or if you struggle with stains, scaling, or scum lines in the spring, this product can help. And it’s a convenient, easy-to-use alternative to buying enzymes, clarifiers, and stain remover separately. But this is optional, so it’s considered extra insurance for some pool owners.

3. Stain and Scale Preventer

In addition to an all-in-one WinterPill, many pool closing kits come with a separate chemical for stain and scale build-up prevention. But the best stain protection for your pool? A solid winter pool cover that keeps debris out of your water. And if you completely clean your pool before closing, you shouldn’t need additional stain and scale prevention.

4. Chlorine-Free Shock (Oxidizer)

Many kits come with an oxidizer, a.k.a. non-chlorine shock, to add to your water when closing. It doesn’t need circulating and it won’t damage your liner or surfaces. But if you’ve just shocked your water in the prep we mentioned before, you don’t need to add pool shock again. Check to make sure your free chlorine and total chlorine levels are in range. If they are, you don’t need to add an oxidizer.

5. Phosphate Removers

Phosphate removers are marketed as a way to starve algae by removing its food source. But you don’t need this if you’ve cleaned your pool, you have a good winter cover, and you’ve added an algaecide.

6. Time-Release Floaters or Absorbing Sponges

These products are found in some pool closing kits to provide ongoing protection throughout the winter. But again, if you’ve already cleaned your pool, balanced your water, and added algaecide, a floater or an oil-absorbing sponge isn’t needed.

7. Air Pillows

If you have an above ground pool, you should absolutely use an air pillow under your cover. This helps prevent ice damage and your pool walls from collapsing in the winter months. But if you have an inground pool (or you already own an air pillow), then you don’t need a closing kit with a pillow.

Are Pool Closing Kits Worth It?

If you want extra protection and don’t want to have to buy individual chemicals, a closing chemical kit is a convenient purchase.

Otherwise, you really just need a 60% Polyquat Algaecide, and then use a WinterPill as an optional layer of protection. Regardless, make sure your pool is clean and use a good winter cover to prevent debris from getting into your pool.

Frequently Asked Questions about Pool Closing Kits

Need more help deciding if a winter closing kit is right for you? Here are some common questions and answers.

What size pool closing kit do I need?

Once you know the volume of your pool, check with the manufacturer to figure out the right size kit for your pool. Some winter kits include different sizes that cover up to 15,000 gallons or 35,000 gallons.

What algaecide should I use to close my pool?

We recommend using a copper-free algaecide to avoid staining. Look for a 60% Polyquat Algaecide, since its concentration is powerful enough to kill algae all winter long. While it’s a little more expensive than copper-based algaecide, it’s worth it to prevent staining, especially if you have high metal content in your water.

Should I shock my pool before closing?

Yes, shock your pool a few days before you plan to add winter chemicals and close your pool. Shocking will kill any bacteria and algae in the water. Use a chlorine-based shock. If you need more help deciding which shock to use, check out our guide on the Best Pool Shock.

How do I close my pool by myself?

If you need more help closing your pool yourself, be sure to check out our guide to How to Close an Inground Pool and How to Close an Above Ground Pool.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Pool Closing Kits: What Chemicals Do You Actually Need to Close Your Pool? appeared first on Swim University®.

Knowing how much salt to add to your pool is crucial to keep your salt water pool chlorinated and your chlorine generator running properly. If your salt levels get too low, your generator won’t produce enough chlorine to keep your pool sanitized — or it’ll stop running all togeter. But if your salinity gets too high, you risk causing damage to your pool’s equipment and surfaces.

The ideal salt level for a pool is around 3,200 PPM. If you’re starting with no salt (0 PPM) and you have a 10,000-gallon pool, you’ll need to add 267 pounds of salt. That’s six to seven 40-pound pool-grade bags of salt.

Here’s a quick table to help you calculate how much salt you need to add to your pool based on your pool volume and current salt levels.

What’s the Correct Level of Salt for Your Pool?

The ideal salt level is between 2,700 to 3,400 ppm with the optimal level being 3,200 ppm. Once you add the initial amount of salt to your water (either when you fill your pool or at the start of the season), you likely won’t need any additional salt. That’s because your salt water generator continuously uses the salt to generate chlorine (thanks to electrolysis). Then the chlorine sanitizes your pool. The salt does not evaporate but it does get diluted when it rains or if you add fresh water.

If you’re converting to a salt water system for the first time, you’ll need about six or seven 40-pound bags of pool salt (for a 10,000-gallon pool). On the other hand, if your salt levels are just low (around 1,000 PPM), you’ll only need about four or five 40-pound bags of pool-grade salt.

Luckily, pool salt is relatively inexpensive. And as mentioned, once you add it at the beginning of the season, it should stay in your water. And you can always add more salt if you need to. So start slowly and let the salt circulate and dissolve. Then retest your salt levels.

By the way, if you need more help figuring out what other chemicals to add to your pool and when to add them, be sure to check out our Pool Care Video Course.

How to Test Your Current Pool Salt Levels

Before you can figure out how much salt to add to your swimming pool, you’ll need to know your current salinity levels. Your salt water generator should tell you what your current salt level is. So start by checking the digital display to get a salinity reading.

However, sometimes a salt water generator can give you an inaccurate salt reading. This may be the case if your unit needs to be recalibrated, or if your water temperature is too low. Funny enough, lower water temperatures produce lower salt readings.

You may also experience inaccurate readings if you have high total dissolved solids (TDS) because of other minerals in the water. Or your salt sensor may also need cleaning.

So to verify how much salt is in your water, use one of these manual testing methods at least once a month.

Digital Salinity Tester

A digital salinity tester is the most accurate way to test your salt levels. Simply place your digital tester directly in your pool water. Beyond testing for salinity, most digital testers also measure total dissolved solids (TDS) total hardness.

Salt Test Strips

With most salt water test strips, simply dip the test strip in a pool water sample and wait several minutes for the results. While this isn’t as accurate as a digital tester, it’s a cheap way to get an approximate reading.

Liquid Reagent Kit

You can get a liquid test kit that includes salt water readings. Simply fill the included vials with pool water from your pool. Add the reagent according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once mixed, the samples change color.

How to Calculate How Much Salt to Add to Your Pool

Use this formula to determine how much salt you need to add to your pool. This assumes your salt levels should be around 3,200 PPM:

How Much Salt to Add (In Pounds) = Your Pool Water in Gallons x 8.35 x (0.0032 – Current Salt PPM / 1,000,000)

For example, if you have a 12,000-gallon pool and your current salt PPM is 1,200 PPM, your math should look like this:

• 12,000 x 8.35 x (0.0032 -1,200/1,000,000)
• 12,000 x 8.35 x (0.0032 – 0.0012)
• 12,000 x 8.35 x 0.0020 = 200.4 pounds

That means you need to add about 200 pounds of salt to the pool water to bring your salt levels up to 3,200 PPM. Generally, pool salt comes in 40-pound bags, so you’d need 5 bags of salt to get the 200 pounds you need.

How to Add Salt to Your Pool

Before adding salt to your pool, whether it’s your first time using salt or it’s part of regular pool maintenance, test your water levels. Make sure your alkalinity and pH are balanced before adding salt.

You’ll also want to buy pool-grade salt that’s at least 99.8% pure sodium chloride (NaCl). It should be evaporated, food-grade, granulated, non-iodized salt. And make sure it does not contain anti-caking agents because they can discolor pool surface finishes and fittings. Do not substitute sodium chloride for calcium chloride.

Turn off your salt chlorine generator. But leave your pump and filter on to circulate the water, which will help dissolve the salt.

Add the salt to the shallow end or around the perimeter. Do not pour the salt directly into the skimmer. Then, let it dissolve and circulate. Depending on how fine the salt is, it could take up to 24 hours to completely dissolve.

Once the salt has dissolved, turn on your salt chlorinator. Test the water to make sure you have a salt level of around 3,200 PPM. Levels much lower than that will make your generator less effective and produce less chlorine. But levels higher than 4,500 PPM will reduce the lifespan of your salt cell and can cause erosion and damage to your pool surfaces and equipment.

Remember, you likely only need to add salt to your pool once a year at the beginning of the pool season. Or add salt to replace lost salt from splashout, backwashing or rain. If you ever have to completely drain and refill your pool, you’ll need to completely replace all the pool salt.

Frequently Asked Questions About Pool Salt

Need more help with adding salt to your pool? Check out our guide on Salt Water Pool Maintenance 101. And here are some frequent questions and answers.

How do you calculate pool volume?

The volume of a rectangular pool is calculated by taking the length x width x average depth. For other shapes or pools with varying depths, you can calculate your pool volume (in gallons) with our Pool Volume Calculator.

How many bags of salt do I need for my pool?

It depends on your current salt level and your pool size. Let’s say your above ground pool has 10,000 gallons of water and you need to raise your salt level from 0 to 3,200 PPM because you’re starting with fresh water or a new salt system. You will need 200 pounds of pool salt or about five 40-pound bags. The salt will stay in the water, so you will only need to add a bit more every year to replace the salt you lose to splashout and backwashing.

How many bags of salt do I need for my 15,000-gallon pool?

If you’re starting with no salt, you’ll need about 300 pounds of salt for 15,000 gallons of water. Since pool salt comes in 40-pound bags, you will need a little less than 8 bags.

Can you put too much salt in a pool?

Adding a bit more salt to your pool won’t typically cause any issues. If the excessive salt levels reach 5,000 ppm or more, you could cause corrosion of metal equipment in the pool.

What else do I need to add to my pool besides salt?

In addition to salt, you’ll want to test and balance your pH, alkalinity, and cyanuric acid levels regularly. You should also manually test your chlorine levels and salt levels, just in case your salt water system isn’t measuring chlorine production correctly. This is why regular water testing is important.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post How Much Salt to Add to Your Pool (Easy Pool Salt Calculation) appeared first on Swim University®.

There are a few key differences between salt water pool maintenance and traditional chlorine pool maintenance. While you still need to keep your water balanced and circulating properly like a normal pool, you’ll need to pay extra to things like high pH levels and calcium build-up in your saltwater generator.

There are 7 key components to salt water pool maintenance:

1. Add the Right Amount of Salt
2. Maintain Proper Water Circulation
3. Prevent Erosion and Calcium Buildup
4. Check Your Salt Cell Every 3 Months
5. Keep Your Water Balanced, Especially pH and Chlorine
6. Shock Your Pool Every Week
7. Skim, Brush, Vacuum Every Week

Check out our video below or keep reading for a complete walkthrough.

Before we cover each component of salt water pool maintenance, remember that a salt water pool is a chlorine pool. Your salt water generator, also known as a salt chlorine generator, turns the salt that’s added to your pool into chlorine. So instead of adding chlorine directly to your water to keep your chlorine levels up, you add salt to your water that produces chlorine. Check out our guide on Salt Water vs. Chlorine Pools for more information.

By the way, if you want all of this pool care information in one easy-to-use place, grab our FREE Pool Care Cheat Sheet!

1. Add the Right Amount of Salt to Your Pool

Usually, you only need to add salt to your pool water once or twice a year or right when opening your pool. That’s because the salt you add to the water won’t dissipate. The salt water generator uses the salt to produce chlorine and then it’s recycled back into the water. So you’ll likely only need to add salt right after pool opening, heavy rain, or when adding fresh water since this will dilute your salinity.

Use pool-grade salt (sodium chloride) that’s at least 99% pure. Certain chlorine generators need to be turned off while you’re adding salt to the pool, so check your owner’s manual first. And be sure to turn the pool pump on to help circulate the salt through the water.

How Much Salt to Add to Your Pool

You’ll need to add enough salt to get your salinity level between 2,700 to 3,400 parts per million (PPM). Usually, 3,200 PPM is ideal but check your owner’s manual for their specific, recommended range. Then use a pool salinity calculator to find out how much salt you need.

If you have a 20,000-gallon pool and you’re adding salt for the first time, you’ll need about 568 pounds of salt. Pool salt is sold in 40-pound bags, so you’d need about 14 bags of salt.

Remember, it’s always easier to add more salt later than remove it once it’s added. So if you’re unsure, add less salt initially and retest your salinity levels before adding more.

How to Add Salt to Pool

First, turn on your pool filter system. Then pour the salt directly into the deep end of your pool. Use a pool brush to push the salt around the bottom of the pool. Pushing the salt will also help it dissolve in the water. Then allow your pump and filter to run for 24 hours to ensure even distribution of salt through the pool.

Test the water’s salinity with a digital salinity tester or salt test strips. Continue to add salt if the levels are still low. But if the salt level is too high (5,000 ppm or higher), you’ll need to dilute your pool water to bring salinity down.

Once the salt level is where it should be, turn on the salt chlorine generator.

2. Maintain Proper Water Circulation

If your swimming pool water isn’t circulating well, your salt water concentration may get too high in some areas.

Double-check your salt levels around your pool with a digital salinity tester. Be sure to test the water in multiple areas to make sure the numbers are consistent. If there’s a drastic difference between numbers, angle your return jets towards the pockets of salinity to help circulate dead zones.

Keep your water circulating by running your pump and filter at least 8 hours a day. For more help with pool pump run times, check out our guide on How Long Should I Run My Pool Pump Every Day?

3. Prevent Erosion and Calcium Buildup

Splash out can cause high concentrations of salt outside of your pool. And that can erode parts of your pool, especially limestone or other soft stone coping around your pool. So be sure to hose down the area around your pool. Splash out can also lead to high concentrations of salt on the outside of your pool liner, so rinse this off as well. Finally, if you have an automatic pool cover, rinse off its metal tracks and hardware with a hose every few weeks.

if you see white flakes in your pool, that’s usually not salt — it’s a buildup of calcium carbonate. Calcium flakes are caused by the high pH byproduct and scale formation in your salt cell. This can happen when you first turn on your salt water generator at the beginning of the season and it usually resolves after it runs for a bit. But salt water generators are prone to calcium buildup, so avoid using chlorine shocks with calcium, like cal-hypo shock, and be sure to regularly clean your salt cell.

Finally, very high pH levels can also cause corrosion of your pool equipment, so be sure to test and balance your pool’s pH regularly.

4. Check Your Salt Cell Every 3 Months

Calcium can build up on your salt cell over time. If you see white flakes in your pool, that’s usually not salt — it’s a buildup of calcium carbonate. Calcium flakes and scaling are caused by the naturally high pH byproduct from your salt water generator running. But even if you don’t see calcium flakes in your water, you could have buildup on your salt cell. And if your pH levels or if your pool water temperature is too high, calcium will build up faster.

Inspect the cell at least every 3 months and clean it by hand or with a hose to remove build-up. You can also use a diluted solution of muriatic acid to remove deposits. But be sure to follow any cleaning directions that came with your salt water generator.

Start by turning off the salt water generator and other connected pool equipment. Then unplug the generator and unscrew and remove the salt cell. Inspect the metal plates, looking for white and flakey spots on the metal inside. If there are no deposits, reassemble the system and check it again in another few months. But if you do see visible deposits, remove any large deposits by hand without forcing your hands into the cell. Rinse the cell with a hose to remove the remnants.

If you still can’t remove the deposits, you can use a solution of 5:1 water to muriatic acid. Wear protective gear like a face mask and gloves and pour the acid into the water to mix it. Cap the cell and pour the acid solution into the salt cell. Allow it to foam for 10 minutes. When it’s done, pour the solution back into the bucket. Use a hose to wash the inside of the cell and put the system back together.

Limit chemically cleaning your salt cell as much as you can, since using chemicals will damage the cell over time. And do not pour the leftover acid solution on the ground or into your pipes.

5. Keep Your Water Balanced, Especially pH and Chlorine

While these levels are important whether or not you have a salt water pool, there are some nuances and challenges you’ll face with your pH and free chlorine levels.

While your salt water generator should display the correct chlorine levels in your water, there are times when the system might not be working correctly. And as we mentioned before, salt water systems produce naturally high pH levels. So testing and balancing your water regularly, especially your pH and chlorine, is crucial.

1. Test Free Chlorine Levels Every Week

Keeping your free chlorine levels around 3 PPM ensures that your water is properly sanitized. And while your salt water generator should tell you how much chlorine is in the water, it’s worth running a quick 15-second test each week to make sure it’s measuring things properly.

Every week, use a liquid test kit or test strips to check the amount of free chlorine in your water. Then adjust your generator accordingly if you find your chlorine levels aren’t what they should be.

It’s fine to keep the amount of chlorine in your pool a bit higher than 3 PPM. That’s because your salt water generator produces and disperses chlorine more evenly throughout the water.

2. Balance Your pH Levels Weekly

Your pH levels can run a bit high in a salt water pool since your salt water generator naturally produces high pH. However, high pH levels (pH above 7.6) can lead to eye and skin irritation as well as scaling on your pool equipment. That’s why you need to test and balance your pH every week. And if you do need to lower your pH levels, you can use pH decreaser or muriatic acid.

If you need more help lowering your pH, be sure to check out our guide on How to Lower pH in Your Pool.

Finally, double-check the run times on your salt water generator, since running the salt water pool system is what causes high pH levels. Try not to run your salt system for more than 10 hours every day.

3. Manually Test Salinity Levels Each Month

The majority of salt water generators will show you your water’s salinity level. But it’s always a good idea to test your salt levels manually to make sure your system is working correctly and not displaying a false reading.

During pool season, check your salinity levels once a month. Also, check your salt levels after heavy rain or if you had to drain out a significant amount of water. You can use salt water test strips, but we also recommend using a digital salinity reader.

4. Test and Balance Alkalinity, Stabilizer, and Calcium Monthly

In addition to monthly salinity testing, you need to test your alkalinity, stabilizer (or cyanuric acid), and calcium levels every month.

• Alkalinity: Total Alkalinity acts as a buffer to protect your pH level from fluctuation. But because running your salt water generator naturally increases your pH level, your total alkalinity has less of an impact on your pH. Ideally, your alkalinity level should be between 100 and 150 PPM. But it’s all right if your alkalinity levels are slightly below 100 PPM since your pH runs high. If you need help managing your alkalinity, check out our guide on how to lower alkalinity.
• Cyanuric Acid: Also known as CYA or stabilizer, your cyanuric acid levels usually need to be between 30 and 50 PPM. But some salt water pool owners find that it helps to maintain higher CYA levels of around 80 ppm, particularly for those who find it difficult to maintain an adequate chlorine level.
• Calcium Hardness: Your calcium hardness level should be between 200 and 400 ppm. If you have high calcium hardness levels, the mineral can calcify and damage your salt cell or cause scale build-up. If your calcium hardness is too high, you’ll need to drain some of your pool water or dilute it with fresh water.

6. Shock Your Pool Every Week

Shocking your pool is the act of adding a super-concentrated dose of chlorine to your water. And helps kill algae and bacteria and refreshes your active, free chlorine.

If your saltwater generator is equipped with a “boost” setting, you add extra chlorine from your saltwater system. This is a great setting to use weekly to help kill contaminants. You can also add a non-chlorine shock to help keep your chlorine working and active in the water.

But if you’re experiencing issues like algae, you’ll want to add a more powerful dose of chlorine using granular dichlor shock or liquid chlorine.

When using a stabilized shock like dichlor, keep an eye on your CYA levels afterward. And avoid using cal-hypo shock because it can cause calcium buildup in your salt cell.

We recommend using the boost mode on your generator or shocking your pool once a week or after heavy use or a heavy storm. Be sure to retest your water the following day and rebalance any chemicals as needed.

7. Skim, Brush, and Vacuum Every Week

Like any pool, you’ll want to make sure your water is free from debris and your pool surfaces are clean. So once a week, use a skimmer net, pool brush, and pool vacuum to clean your water. A robotic pool cleaner can come in handy here. But if you need to manually vacuum your pool, be sure to check out our walk-through on How to Vacuum Your Pool.

Frequently Asked Questions About Salt Water Pool Maintenance

Need more help taking care of your salt water pool? Here are some common questions and answers.

How is a Salt Water Pool Different from a Traditional Chlorine Pool?

Both a salt water pool and a chlorine pool use chlorine to sanitize the water. Regular chlorine pools need chlorine to be added directly to the water. On the other hand, salt water pool systems use salt that’s added to the water to turn it into chlorine. The salt water passes through a system known as a salt chlorine generator. It uses electricity with pool-grade salt to break the salt down into sodium and chlorine.

Salt water pools have other benefits, like a smoother water feel and less irritation for swimmers.

What Happens if You Add Too Much Salt to a Salt Water Pool?

If your salinity levels reach 5,000 ppm or higher, you risk corroding your pool equipment and your salt water generator might not work properly. To bring salt levels back down to an acceptable level, you’ll need to dilute your pool water by partially draining and adding fresh water.

Is it easier to maintain a salt water pool?

Overall, a salt water swimming pool is easier to maintain than a chlorine pool. With a salt water generator, there’s no need to buy, store, and add chlorine to your water. Once you add the right amount of pool salt to your pool, your generator does the work. You just need annual top-ups of pool salt, unless you have to drain a significant amount of water from the pool. However, you will have to pay attention to the condition of your salt water generator and salt cell.

How often should a salt water pool be serviced?

You should inspect the salt cell every three months and clean it as necessary. But if your salt water generator needs maintenance, much of the service needs to be done by a professional.

Are salt water pools high maintenance?

No, salt water pools are not considered high maintenance compared to a traditional chlorine pool. But you will still need to test and balance pool chemicals. The salt water chlorinator maintains consistent chlorine levels for you, but you still need to keep pH, CYA, and other chemicals balanced.

What chemicals do you need for a salt water pool?

To maintain your pool’s water chemistry, you’ll need pool salt. You’ll also need a chlorine stabilizer, pH decreaser or muriatic acid, and a calcium hardness increaser in check. You will also need some non-chlorine shock and dichlor shock or liquid shock on hand for shocking your pool manually.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Salt Water Pool Maintenance 101: How to Keep it Clean and Clear appeared first on Swim University®.

Backwashing a sand filter is an essential part of pool maintenance. But how often do you need to backwash? And how do you actually do it?

Backwashing reverses water flow to remove contaminant buildup in your sand filter. And it’s a simple process of connecting a backwash hose to your filter and using the backwash setting to send water from your pool through your filter and out the waste port. In general, you should backwash your filter if the filter gauge pressure reads above 10 PSI or you notice a weak flow of water out of your return jets. But you’ll need to backwash more often if you have an algae-infested pool or you’ve just used a pool flocculant.

Check out the video tutorial below or keep reading for a step-by-step guide on how to backwash your sand filter.

What is Backwashing?

As water regularly passes through your sand filter, it leaves behind dirt, debris, and other contaminants in the filter medium or sand.  Over time as water flows through, that filter medium will become clogged. And that can reduce your filter’s effectiveness.

When you backwash, you’re sending water backward through your filter and out your filter’s waste port or drain port. This forces all the debris caught in the filter medium to dislodge and clear out.

You’ll need to regularly backwash a sand filter or diatomaceous earth or D.E. filter, but you do not need to backwash if you have a cartridge filter.

By the way, if you need more help understanding your filter and keeping your water clean and clear, check out our Pool Care Video Course.

When to Backwash a Sand Filter

In general, you should backwash your filter when your filter pressure rises 10 PSI above normal running pressure or if you notice poor flow from your return jet.

Take note of the pressure gauge reading when you first set up your filter or right after you backwash. That’s your normal operating filter pressure. When the pressure gauge reads 10 psi or more above normal, it’s time to backwash.

Just make sure you don’t want to backwash too frequently. When there’s a little build-up in your filter, it actually helps capture tinier bits of debris. A clean filter is good. A slightly dirty filter is better. But a clogged filter is bad and needs backwashing.

You’ll also need to backwash if you’ve recently filtered out a lot of debris, contaminants, or dirty water. If your filter is running after cleaning up an algae bloom or after a heavy storm, you’ll need to backwash. It’s also a good idea to backwash your filter after you’ve vacuumed your pool or if you’ve used a pool flocculant.

How Do You Know if Your Sand Filter is Clogged?

Here are a few ways to tell if your sand filter is too dirty and it’s time to backwash.

Filter Pressure is 10 PSI Above Normal

If you notice that your sand filter’s pressure gauge reads 10 PSI or more over its baseline, it’s time to backwash. You can find your filter’s normal operating pressure by looking at your pressure gauge after backwashing.

Low Water Flow from Return Jets

If you notice low water flow out of your return jets, it’s a sign you need to backwash. Generally, when the flow rate drops, you’ll see an increase in PSI, and may even see cloudy water.

Cloudy Pool Water

If your water isn’t as clear as it usually is, or you can see visible debris in the water that the filter should have removed, that can be an indication your sand filter isn’t filtering effectively.

After Heavy Rain or Debris Load

If a large amount of dirt or debris gets into your pool water, like after a big rain storm, you’ll need to backwash after clearing out the debris with a skimmer net and a manual vacuum or after shocking your pool water.

How to Backwash Your Sand Filter Step By Step

The backwashing process is easy, but following the right steps in the right order will help you avoid filter damage and get your filter system as clean as possible.

And before you run your filter, make sure your pool’s water level is halfway up the skimmer or higher, since you’ll be losing pool water in the process. Finally, to backwash, the only extra supply you’ll need is a backwash hose.

1. Turn the filter system off. Then remove the skimmer basket, especially if it’s full of debris.
2. Attach the backwash hose to filter waste port. This is also known as the waste line or backwash port. Your backwash hose will have a lot of water flowing out of it, so be sure the end is placed in an appropriate spot.
3. Turn your multiport valve to the Backwash position. Then turn the filter system back on. Water should be flowing out of the backwash port and through the hose.
4. Let the water run for about one minute, or until the water runs clear. Check the water clarity coming out of the end of your backwash hose or check your filter sight glass.
5. Turn your filter system off and turn the filter valve from Backwash to Rinse. This will help remove sand from your lines before the water flows back into your pool. If you don’t have a Rinse setting, use the Waste setting.
6. Turn your filter system back on and rinse the filter for about 30 seconds.
7. Turn the filter system off and turn the multiport valve to the Filter setting. You can now turn the system back on and run it regularly.
8. Refill, test, and balance your pool water as necessary. The backwash process removes water from your pool and you’ll need to rebalance your chemicals.

Note: Make sure your filter is off before turning your filter valve into a new position. Moving the filter valve handle while the filter is on or while water is flowing can damage the multiport valve handle gasket.

What if Backwashing Didn’t Work?

If you’re still experiencing signs of a dirty sand filter, it’s time to re-evaluate:

• Check all your pool chemical levels to make sure something else isn’t causing cloudy water, like your pH or calcium hardness.
• Check for damage to your sand filter. If your sand filter is very old or very cheap, you could have a cracked lateral inside the sand filter tank. Or your need your entire filter may need replacing.
• Check the rest of your pool plumbing system for clogs or leaks. If you have low return jet pressure, you could have a leak or clog in the pressure side of your pool.

If you’re still experiencing pressure problems, be sure to check out our Pool Filter Pressure Troubleshooting Guide.

How Often Do I Need to Change the Pool Filter Sand?

You will need to change the pool filter sand every three to five years. And you’ll know it’s time to change the sand in your filter if the water is dirtier than usual and the sand is clumped together or greasy.

Laterals are the bars of star-shaped section at the bottom of the sand filter. With time, regular wear and tear and pressure from the sand may cause them to break. And if you have a broken lateral, your filter’s efficiency will suffer.

Frequently Asked Questions About How to Backwash a Sand Filter

Need more help backwashing a sand filter? Here are some common questions and answers.

How often should you backwash your sand filter?

You should backwash a pool filter when you notice the filter pressure running 10 PSI above normal, cloudy water or if you notice low water flow coming from your return jets. For more information, check out our video on How Often Should You Backwash a Pool Filter.

What’s the difference between backwash and rinse?

Backwash sends water in the opposite direction through the filter. Rinse sends water through the same in the same direction as normal filtration. The Rinse setting clears dirt from the clean side of the sand before sending it back to the swimming pool.

Do you backwash or rinse a sand filter first?

Backwash the filter, then rinse the filter afterward to prevent blowback into the pool. The backwash setting flushes contaminants built up in the sand. And the rinse setting resets the sand to its original position for the best filtration.

How long do I rinse my sand filter after backwashing?

Rinse your filter for at least 30 seconds after backwashing. Otherwise, you could risk blowing sand back into your pool through your return jets.

Does backwashing remove water from the pool?

Yes, a certain amount of water loss is unavoidable when you backwash. But you can reduce the amount of water you lose by closely monitoring the clarity of the water as it comes out of the waste line and stopping the process as soon as it runs clear.

How do I backwash my above ground pool sand filter?

Your above ground sand filter should have the same settings as any other sand filter, including backwash and rinse. If you don’t have these settings or you don’t have a waste port, you may have a cartridge filter instead. If you have a smaller filter like an Intex sand filter, you may want to do your backwashing in rounds. Backwash for one minute and then rinse for one minute. Repeat this cycle for 3 rounds to avoid blowing anything back into the pool.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post How to Backwash a Sand Filter for a Super Clean Pool appeared first on Swim University®.

If your free chlorine level is lower than 1 part per million (or ppm), then you need to take action to raise your chlorine levels. Chlorine levels at or below 1 ppm mean your pool water isn’t sanitized, which can lead to algae growth and bacteria build-up.

But what if you’ve added chlorine tablets or granules and the levels won’t change? How do you raise free chlorine in a pool if you’ve already added chlorine?

If your chlorine levels are low (1 ppm) or you’re not getting a chlorine reading at all (0 ppm), shock your pool water with a chlorine-based shock.

But if your chlorine levels continue to remain low, even after shocking, you may have a high chlorine demand issue.

Keep reading for a step-by-step guide on what causes low chlorine levels and how to raise free chlorine levels in your pool.

What is Free Chlorine?

Free chlorine is the amount of chlorine that’s available to sanitize your pool water. In other words, it’s the chlorine that hasn’t been used up and is still free to kill contaminants. If there isn’t enough free chlorine in your water, bacteria and other harmful microorganisms can build up. Your free chlorine levels should be between 1 and 3 ppm.

On the other hand, combined chlorine (a.k.a. chloramines) is chlorine that’s already been used up to fight contaminants in the water. Your combined chlorine level should be no more than 0.5 ppm. If the amount of combined chlorine gets too high, your chlorine will stop working effectively and it will produce that classic chlorine smell.

Finally, total chlorine is the sum of free chlorine and combined chlorine. If the total chlorine levels are the same as the free chlorine levels (like 3 ppm), it means none of the chlorine has been used up (combined chlorine) and it’s available to work as a sanitizer.

If you’re still feeling confused about water chemistry, you’re not alone. Check out our Pool Care Video Course for a complete guide on everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

What Causes Low Free Chlorine Levels?

The first step in raising the free chlorine in your pool is knowing what caused it. And there are several factors that can contribute to sudden or chronically low free chlorine levels.

High Chlorine Demand

Chlorine can only sanitize so much. If you have a high bather load or a lot of debris in the water, you’ll need more chlorine to sanitize the water effectively. The more contaminants you have to fight in the water, the more chlorine your pool water will demand.

Chlorine demand is most common when your pool water sits untreated and stagnant for the winter. Heavy rainfall can also lead to chlorine demand, especially if you experience runoff from your yard.

If you just added chlorine or a chlorine-based shock to your pool and you still have a low chlorine level, there’s a chlorine demand problem.

In order to cure chlorine demand, triple shock your pool with calcium hypochlorite or cal-hypo shock. Add three pounds of shock for every 10,000 gallons of water in your pool.

Heavy Pool Use

The more swimmers you have in the pool and the more often you use it, the more contaminants your chlorine will need to fight. Things like sunscreen, dirt and even the oil from your skin can cause your chlorine to work over time.

Shock your pool weekly and especially after parties to keep your free chlorine levels high and your water sanitized.

Sunlight and Low Cyanuric Acid Levels

If you’re using unstabilized chlorine (like liquid chlorine or bleach) to sanitize your water, your chlorine levels will drop in the sunlight. That’s because the sun’s rays will break down your chlorine if it doesn’t have any stabilizer (a.k.a. cyanuric acid).

Test your cyanuric acid levels regularly and use a chlorine stabilizer to keep your chlorine from breaking down in the sunlight.

Very High Cyanuric Acid Levels

When your CYA levels are too high, it can hamper your chlorine’s effectiveness. High CYA will weaken your chlorine’s ability to sanitize your water. If you use 3-Inch chlorine tablets (trichlor pucks), it will consistently raise your cyanuric acid.

Regularly test your CYA levels and make sure that it stays within the correct range of 30 and 50 ppm.

Increased Organic Contaminants

A heavy rain storm can increase the contaminants in your pool water, And that can quickly use up your free chlorine as it binds to everything in an effort to sanitize the water.

Be sure to clean debris from your water after a storm and shock your pool, especially if you’ve experienced runoff.

Refilling the Pool with Fresh Water

If you’ve just added fresh water to your pool, it could disrupt your water chemistry. More fresh water means less sanitized, balanced water with the proper amount of pool chemicals.

Not Adding Enough Chlorine

One of the simplest reasons behind low free chlorine levels is that there’s not enough chlorine regularly added to the water. If you’re adding chlorine tablets to your skimmer but your pump shuts off, that chlorine won’t get into the water. And if you use a chlorine floater, make sure you have enough chlorine in it to cover your surface area.

Not Enough Salt in Your Salt Water Pool

If you use a saltwater generator and your chlorine levels are low, your pool may not have enough salt. Your salt cell needs a certain level of salinity to function.

Test your pool salinity every month to make sure your salt levels are within range. And be sure to regularly inspect your salt water generator to make sure it’s working properly.

How to Raise Free Chlorine in a Pool

If you’ve not cleaned your pool yet and there’s a lot of debris, your free chlorine level is likely low because it’s busy working on cleaning all the contaminants from the debris. Clean your pool and remove debris, then test the chlorine level.

Then, test your water. You’ll want to make sure your pH, alkalinity, and cyanuric acid levels are within range. If you need help balancing your water chemistry, be sure to check out our guides on pH and cyanuric acid.

Once your pool is free of debris and your other levels are balanced, it’s time to shock your water.

When you shock your pool, you’re adding enough chlorine to reach a “chlorine breakpoint.” This raises your pool’s free chlorine levels to 10 times or more over the normal amount.

There are multiple types of chlorine pool shock and each one can affect the other pool chemicals in the water, like your pH levels. Keep in mind that using a non-chlorine shock will decrease your combined chlorine but it will not raise your free chlorine level. That’s because the oxidation in a non-chlorine shock helps break up contaminents without adding chlorine.

• For Traditional Chlorine Pool Owners: Use Cal-Hypo Shock. Cal-hypo is the strongest type of chlorine shock available and will help quickly raise your free chlorine levels. Because cal-hypo shock is unstabilized chlorine, you’ll need to add it to your pool at night to avoid the sun’s UV rays destroying your shock. Then wait at least 8 hours before swimming again. If you suspect you have high chlorine demand (lots of contaminants and a reading of 0 ppm), you’ll need to triple shock your pool.
• For Salt Water Pool Owners: Use Sodium Dichlor Shock. Dichlor shock will help raise your chlorine without causing scale buildup on your saltwater generator. But it will also raise your cyanuric acid (CYA) levels. So if you’re already dealing with high CYA levels, opt for liquid chlorine.

What If Your Free Chlorine Levels Don’t Change After Shocking?

There are several reasons why your free chlorine levels are still low after shocking your water:

• Other pool chemicals are out of balance: Without the right amount of pH or cyanuric acid in your water, your chlorine levels can fluctuate.
• High contaminant load: You may have a build-up of bacteria or algae that requires a more aggressive shock treatment. If your pool looks dusty on the bottom or clouds up when you brush it, it’s likely mustard algae.

What if Your Free Chlorine Levels are Constantly Low?

If you find that you’re consistently getting low chlorine readings, check your cyanuric acid level. Low CYA means that your chlorine is susceptible to the sun’s UV rays. So your chlorine will burn up faster.

On the other hand, you may have high chlorine demand. Your chlorine’s effectiveness is finite. So if there are lots of swimmers or debris and organic contaminants in the water, more chlorine is required to properly sanitize the water. At a certain point, your chlorine gets used up faster than you can add it and your levels remain low. Again, shocking your pool can help fix this.

On the other hand, if you have constantly low chlorine levels in a saltwater pool, you likely need to add more pool salt or clean or replace your salt cell.

Frequently Asked Questions About How to Raise Free Chlorine in a Pool

Need more help figuring out how to raise free chlorine in a pool? Here are some common questions and answers.

What do I do if my free chlorine is too low?

If your levels are low, start by simply adding more chlorine. Use test strips or a liquid testing kit to determine the current level. Then add chlorine granules to raise the levels quickly. If that doesn’t work, shock your pool.

How much shock do I need to raise free chlorine?

When shocking your pool, the goal is to significantly and quickly raise your free chlorine levels above your combined chlorine levels. If you’re using cal-hypo shock, use 1 pound bag per 10,000 gallons of water.

Does chlorine-free shock raise free chlorine?

Non-chlorine shock will not add chlorine to your pool, and therefore, will not raise free chlorine levels. However, non-chlorine shocks will remove chloramines, a.k.a. combined chlorine.

What is more important: your free chlorine or total chlorine levels?

Both are important, but what matters is that your free chlorine levels are always higher than your combined chlorine levels. If the free chlorine level is low and the combined level is high, then you don’t have enough available chlorine to adequately sanitize your pool. Total chlorine accounts for both free and combined chlorine.

Is it safe to swim in a pool with low chlorine?

Technically, you could swim in a freshly filled pool with low chlorine. But contaminants will build up quickly in the water. And continuously using a swimming pool with a low level of chlorine could cause illness and eye or skin irritation. It’s always better to balance pool chemicals and swim in a pool with adequate chlorine.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post How to Raise Free Chlorine Levels in a Pool appeared first on Swim University®.

Regular pool water testing is a crucial part of pool maintenance. But there are very different testing methods that provide different and sometimes more accurate results. So what’s the best way to test your water: test strips, liquid test kits, or a digital test reader?

• Test strips are the most cost-effective and easiest way to test your pool water. But they’re limited in what they measure and they can be contaminated easily if they’re left unsealed or exposed to moisture.
• Liquid test kits offer a broader range of testing options. But they require precision when adding liquid reagents, otherwise, you could get inaccurate results.
• Digital readers are fast, accurate, and great for anyone who has trouble reading color. However, they’re more expensive than other types of pool test kits.

That said, if you’re looking for something to help you with easy, weekly water testing, we recommend the very popular AquaChek Select Connect 7-Way Pool & Spa Test Strips.

On the other hand, if you’re in the market for a more comprehensive pool water testing kit, we recommend the Taylor Complete Pool and Spa Liquid Test Kit.

Finally, if you prefer a digital reader or you’re having trouble interpreting the color-coded charts on other kits, check out the LaMotte Digital Reader.

Keep reading for more information about each type of test kit and the brands we recommend.

Best Test Strips: AquaChek 7-Way Pool & Spa Test Strips

AquaChek test strips are an easy-to-use, 7-way test kit that measures the more important pool chemistry levels: pH, total chlorine, free chlorine, bromine, alkalinity, total hardness, and cyanuric acid. So if you’re looking for the easiest way regularly test things like your chlorine levels, this is a great option. These strips also include a free mobile app to help you interpret your results. Overall, AquaChek’s popular and affordable test strips are perfect for regular, weekly pool maintenance and testing.

Best Liquid Test Kit: Taylor Complete Pool and Spa Test Kit

Taylor Complete Pool and Spa Liquid Test Kit tests for all of your important levels, including chlorine, bromine, pH, acid demand, and total alkalinity. This kit includes rapid dissolve tablets to test for free chlorine, and liquid solutions to test for all other levels. And different versions of this kit also include a FAS-DPD bromine test.

Most importantly, Taylor Technologies is one of the most reliable and best pool testing options on the market. However, this kit does not test salt levels, so you’ll need to purchase a salinity meter separately. And the reagents that measure your levels are very accurate when fresh, so the kit will need to be stored in a temperature-controlled environment. Also, you’ll need to replace or refill your kit components, like Phenol Red and Orthotolidine (OTO), as you use the kit.

Best Digital Test Kit: Lamotte Digital Reader and Test Kit

If you don’t want to do any color matching, the Lamotte Digital Reader can help. This is the ideal option for those who have difficulty distinguishing color and want more definitive results. The reader runs on 2AA batteries (not included) and features a memory function that lets you store the last nine test results.

Additionally, this digital water tester features a water-resistant LCD display, so you don’t have to worry about the pool water damaging the unit. In general, digital testers are more expensive than testing strips or liquid test kits. But they give pool owners a simple, fast, and reliable water testing solution.

What Are the Correct Pool Water Chemistry Levels?

Regardless of which type of testing kit you use, your normal pool water chemistry levels should be:

• pH: 7.4-7.6
• Total Alkalinity: 100-150 ppm
• Free Available Chlorine: 1-3 ppm
• Bromine: 3-5 ppm
• Cyanuric Acid: 30-50 ppm
• Calcium Hardness: 200-400 ppm
• Metals: 0 ppm
• Phosphates: 0 ppm
• Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) for Non-Salt Water Pools: 0-2500 ppm

By the way, if you’re feeling confused about pool chemistry, you’re not alone. That’s why we made our Pool Care Video Course so you never have to feel confused about your chemical levels again. Check it out!

Test Strips vs. Liquid Test Kits: Which Is Better?

While we recommend having both a liquid test kit and a supply of test strips on hand, here are the biggest pros and cons of each.

Pool Test Strips: Pros and Cons

Test strips are incredibly easy to use and the most affordable water testing option. But while they’re generally very accurate, they test for fewer chemicals than liquid test kits. To get the most accurate results, use strips before they expire and store them away from moisture. And avoid touching the ends of the strips before you use them to prevent contamination.

Liquid Test Kits: Pros and Cons

On the other hand, liquid test kits provide a more accurate and comprehensive test. Once you collect your water sample, you’ll add a set amount of special chemical drops (known as reagents) into each test kit vial. Then compare the color of the water sample to the color chart. But since you’ll need to repeat the steps for each chemical you’re testing for, this kind of testing takes more time than using a test strip. Also, if you accidentally add too much of each reagent, your test results for the respective chemical levels are inaccurate.

Purchasing a liquid test kit is more expensive than buying test strips. But when used correctly – that is, with the correct amount of each reagent added to your vial of pool water – your results will be highly accurate. However, you’ll need to regularly replace your drops. Similarly to test strips, the reagants and drops in the kit will expire.

Frequently Asked Questions About Pool Test Kits

Need more help deciding between pool test kits? Here are some commonly asked questions and answers.

What is the most accurate way to test your pool?

Test strips provide a quick and easy way to test your swimming pool chemicals and get a general understanding of your water levels. But liquid testing kits, when used correctly, provide more comprehensive and accurate results than test strips. However, if you mess up when adding liquid reagents to your pool water sample, you risk getting inaccurate results.

So if you’re looking for a kit to perform simple, weekly chlorine tests or pH tests, test strips will work fine.

Are pool water test strips accurate?

Yes, pool water test strips are accurate. All you have to do is dip the strip into the water and allow the strip to rest for 15 seconds before interpreting the results.

How can I test my pool water at home?

You can test your pool water at home using test strips or a liquid pool water test kit. At a minimum, the kit should test chlorine and pH levels. But you can get more specialized kits to test for metals. However, if your levels are “off the chart” or you’re worried you’re not getting accurate results, consider bringing a water sample to a local pool supply store.

What does a pool test kit test for?

Most pool test kits will test for the standard chlorine, pH, and total alkalinity. But other pool testing strips are available for additional factors, such as total dissolved solids (TDS), salt, calcium hardness, potential contaminants, bacteria, phosphates, and more.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Best Pool Test Kits for the Most Accurate Water Readings appeared first on Swim University®.

A salt water system is a great investment if you’re tired of buying and adding chlorine and you’re looking to spend less time managing your pool water chemistry. But before you buy a salt water chlorinator (also known as a salt water generator), there are a few things to keep in mind:

• Salt water pools are still chlorine pools. The salt water generator converts salt into chlorine. So instead of adding chlorine directly to your water, you’re adding salt.
• You’ll save money on chemicals, but you’ll spend more money on equipment. The units themselves usually cost over $1,000 and you’ll need to buy replacement salt cells every 5 years.
• You won’t need to buy, handle or add chlorine ever again. You’ll never have to add weekly doses of chlorine to your pool! But you’ll still need to test your water chemistry and keep an eye on your salt water generator to make sure it’s working properly.

With that in mind, if you’re in the market for a salt water system, we recommend the Hayward Salt Chlorination System. It has one of the longest lifespans compared to other units and you’ll get full control over your chlorine output levels.

However, if you have limited space to install your salt system, the Pentair IntelliChlor is an alternative, more compact option. Just keep in mind that its replacement parts are more expensive. Finally, if you have a smaller above ground pool and you’re looking for a budget-friendly salt system, check out the Krystal Clear Intex Salt Water System.

Keep reading for more information about each option and whether or not a salt water system is worth it for your pool.

The Best Salt Water Pool Systems

No matter what type of salt water system you choose, always purchase from a reputable brand and look for salt water generators that come with a decent warranty. You’ll need to replace your salt cell every 5-7 years, so you’ll want to make sure you’re able to find replacement parts in the future. Finally, before making any purchase, double-check for compatibility with your pool and plumbing setup.

Best Overall: Hayward Salt Chlorination System

This Hayward Salt Water System is ideal for inground pools up to 40,000 gallons. Installation is relatively easy and the digital display makes it simple to adjust your chlorine output. It works well with other pool automation systems to allow you more customizable programming options. And it includes the Hayward TurboCell Salt Chlorination CELL-15, which comes with a 3-year warranty.

The only downside to this system is that it takes up more room than other salt chlorine generators. But if you can find the space, the Hayward Salt Water System is worth it for its longevity and ease of use.

Runner Up: Pentair IntelliChlor Salt Chlorine Generator

Because of its compact size, the Pentair IntelliChlor is easy to install in almost any pool plumbing set up. It features an easy-to-view display so you can keep an eye on salt levels, cell condition, and water cleanliness. It’s also available in multiple models, making this a flexible choice for all pool sizes, working with both smaller pools (up to 20,000 gallons) and larger pools (up to 60,000 gallons).

However, you will need to purchase an IntelliChlor power center, sold separately, to make this unit work. And because this is an “all-in-one” unit, the replacement cells cost more compared to other salt water systems. So expect to spend more money in the future compared to other salt water chlorinators.

Best Budget: Intex Krystal Clear

The Intex Krystal Clear Salt Water System is a popular, affordable option for above ground, small pools up to 15,000 gallons. Whether you have a new or existing pool, you can install it with no additional plumbing required. It comes with adapters that allow you to add it to other types of pools beyond Intex. And it features a programmable digital timer that lets you easily control chlorine output.

However, it can be more challenging to find replacement parts with this brand. And it does require you have a pump installed with a flow rate of at least 700 gallons per hour (GPH).

How Does a Salt Water Pool System Work?

A salt water pool still sanitizes your water with chlorine, just like a traditional pool. But instead of purchasing and adding chlorine to your water, you use pool-grade salt, sodium chloride.

The generator uses electrolysis to separate the salt in the pool water into two primary components, one of which is chlorine. But even after the chlorine is made, the salt stays in the water and gets recycled and reused by the salt water chlorinator.

Salt water swimming pools generally need salt levels of 3,000 parts per million (PPM) before the generator will start working. That’s the same salinity as human tears, so your pool water won’t be salty like ocean water.

By the way, if you have other questions about pool chemistry and pool maintenance, check out our Pool Care Video Course.

How Much Does a Salt Water System Cost?

On average, most high-quality salt water chlorinators cost over $1,000. You’ll also have the cost of salt cell replacements about every 5 years, which can cost several hundred dollars. The larger your pool, the more expensive your salt water system will be.

Are Salt Water Systems Worth It?

With a salt water system, you never have to worry about buying, handling, and adding chlorine again. And salt water chlorinators produce a steadier, more consistent flow of chlorine in your pool water. That means you’re more likely to avoid algae issues, contaminant build-up, and chloramines (the byproduct of used-up chlorine). That means no chlorine-like smell and less skin and eye irritation for swimmers.

Salt water systems also require less hands-on chemical maintenance. Instead of manually adding chlorine granules or liquid, simply add salt to your pool water and your chlorine generator creates a steady, consistent flow of chlorine. And salt water systems include flow switches to control chlorine output.

Finally, buying and using salt is much cheaper than chlorine. A salt chlorine generator produces chlorine at approximately $1/pound. Whereas purchasing chlorine at your local pool supply store puts it at $2 to $4 a pound.

That said, of course, salt water pool systems aren’t the ideal choice for all pool owners. They do come with a higher initial investment (over $1,000 before installation). And you’ll also have to pay for a salt cell replacement about every 5 years. And that can cost several hundred dollars. But again, you’ll be spending less money each year on chlorine.

Also, any build-up of salt will corrode pool equipment, especially any metal that’s in or around your pool. This includes screws, heaters, lights, patio furniture, and diving board attachments. And salt water splash out is corrosive if it builds up on pool landscaping or coping.

But overall, a salt water system is a great investment for any pool owner looking to avoid handling and adding chlorine to their water while keeping their pool consistently sanitized.

Frequently Asked Questions About Salt Water Pool Systems

Need more help deciding if a salt water generator is right for your pool? Here are some commonly asked questions and answers.

What are the disadvantages of salt water pools?

Because salt water pools are more complex to maintain than traditional pools, they may require experienced technicians to take care of even minor issues. And if salt builds up on equipment or surfaces, it can erode your pool equipment and parts. That includes pool heaters, pool lights and fixtures, liners, and masonry work around the edge of your pool.

Is it cheaper to run a salt water pool compared to a chlorine pool?

Pool salt costs significantly less than chlorine and you’ll likely only need to add it to your water once or twice a year. But you’ll likely have higher electricity costs because you’re running a salt water generator. A 20,000-gallon salt water pool uses an additional 500 watts of electricity to power the salt water generator. That translates to around $40 to $50 more a year in electric costs. But you’ll likely save that amount of money (or more) by not having to buy chlorine.

Are salt water pools hard to maintain?

No, salt water pools are not hard to maintain but the equipment itself (the salt water chlorinator) may require professional maintenance and repair. But while you may need to hire out help for the salt water system itself, you won’t have to deal with buying, storing, and adding chlorine to your pool water.

Can you switch from chlorine to salt water pool?

Yes, it’s very simple to convert a traditional chlorine pool to a salt water pool. All you have to do is install the chlorination system and add pool salt to the water. From there, the generator will produce chlorine for you. Remember, chlorine is the sanitizer in both pools! For a step-by-step guide, be sure to check out our guide on Salt Water Pool Conversion.

Do salt water pools get algae?

Salt water pools are still susceptible to algae blooms, but the continuous and steady supply of chlorine from the salt chlorine generator should help prevent green water. Most generators have a super chlorination feature to increase your chlorine level and kill contaminants. But you may need to shock your pool if you’re already dealing with a significant algae issue.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Salt Water Pool Systems: What’s the Best One and Are They Worth It? appeared first on Swim University®.

Testing your pool water regularly is an essential part of pool maintenance. It’s how you know your chemical balance is where it should be. But, unless you know when and how to use pool test strips, you could be misinterpreting your water test results.

Watch the video below for how to test your water. Or keep reading for a complete guide on when to use test strips, and how test trips compare to liquid test kits.

How to Use Pool Test Strips

Test strips are the quickest and easiest way to test your pool water. And they’re an essential item to have on hand for regular pool maintenance.

Most pool test strips test total hardness, total chlorine, total bromine, free chlorine, pH, total alkalinity, and cyanuric acid (or CYA). These worth as both pool and spa test strips. You can also find specialty test strips that check for metals like copper and iron or salt levels for saltwater pools.

We recommend testing your pool water chemistry once a week. But you may need to test more often if you’re dealing with cloudy water, algae, or any water clarity issues. It’s also a good idea to test in unusually warm weather or after a storm.

By the way, if you feel really confused with pool water chemistry, be sure to check out our Pool Care Video Course.

1. Collect a Pool Water Sample

Before you collect the sample, turn your pump on high and let the water circulate for at least an hour. If you test stagnant water, the results may not be as accurate.

Using a clean, glass cup, reach your arm into your pool elbow deep and collect some pool water. Avoid collecting surface water or water near floating chemical dispensers or pool returns, since this may affect the accuracy of your test results.

2. Dip the Test Strip into the Water

Dip the pool test strip into the water and quickly remove it. There’s no need to keep it submerged or soak it in the water. Just make sure your finger doesn’t go into the water.

3. Allow the Test Strip to Develop and Measure Results

Hold the strip in the air for about 15 seconds. Do not shake it. Then hold the strip next to the test packaging to compare the color chart. Match it up to see where your levels are.

4. Adjust Your Pool Chemicals Accordingly

Use the colored chart on the pool water test strips packaging to determine what chemicals need balancing. You’ll want to adjust your water chemistry based on the normal ranges for each chemical. Here are the pool chemical levels we recommend:

• pH: 7.4-7.6
• Total Alkalinity: 100-150 ppm
• Free Available Chlorine: 1-3 ppm
• Bromine: 3-5 ppm
• Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer): 30-50 ppm
• Calcium Hardness: 200-400 ppm

For more help with balancing your pool chemicals, check out our guide to Basic Pool Chemistry 101.

Pool Test Strips vs. Liquid Test Kit: Which One is Better?

Test strips are a quick and convenient way to do weekly water testing, especially to keep track of fluctuating sanitizer or pH levels. And test strips are much more affordable than liquid test kits. But it’s easy to spoil an entire pack if they become damp or are left out in the sunlight too long. And the strips do expire.

Liquid test kits are typically more precise when used correctly. And because testing is available for a broader range of chemicals, they are the only option available when testing for certain levels.

But because the tests are more complex, there’s always more room for human error. And they are much more expensive. Finally, the chemical reagents used in these kits do expire, so you will need to replace them periodically to ensure the tests remain accurate.

So while liquid test kits are often a more accurate and complete testing solution than test strips, there’s more expensive and cumbersome. Pool test strips are a great and essential item to have on hand for regular pool maintenance.

Frequently Asked Questions About Pool Test Strips

Need more help with test strips? Here are some common questions and answers.

Do swimming pool test strips work?

Yes, pool strips are a reliable way to test your pool water chemistry. The most common pool test strips are either 4-way or 6-way test strips that measure things like pH, alkalinity and free chlorine levels. These testers can be used in both inground and above ground pools.

Which pool test strips are the best?

We recommend using AquaChek Pool & Spa Test Strips. AquaChek is a very reliable brand used by many pool owners and pool professionals.

How long do you leave pool test strips in the water?

You do not need to leave test strips submerged in the water. A quick dip and release from the water is all it takes. Allow 15 seconds for the color to develop on the strip before comparing it for results purposes.

What happens if I can’t get an accurate reading?

If you suspect your pool water test kit isn’t measuring your levels correctly, you may need to bring a water sample to your local pool store. This can happen when your levels are “off the charts.” Your pool store can do more comprehensive chemical testing and provide you with accurate results.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Pool Test Strips: How to Use Them the Right Way appeared first on Swim University®.

Adding shock to your water is an important part of pool maintenance, but it can be hard to know confidently when it’s okay to swim again. Should you wait an entire day after shocking your water? And how do you know the shock is actually dissolved and it’s truly safe for swimmers?

How long to wait to swim after shocking your pool depends on what type of shock you use: chlorine vs. non-chlorine. You can swim shortly after using non-chlorine shock in your water. But as a rule of thumb, you should wait at least 8 hours to swim after adding chlorine shock to your pool water. You’ll know it’s safe to swim if your free chlorine levels have dropped down to the normal range of 5 ppm (parts per million) or less.

So be sure to test your water before and after shocking your pool and make sure your filter is running to circulate the water after you’ve added shock.

How Long Does Shock Take to Dissolve?

Most other pool chemicals that adjust levels, like alkalinity, pH, and calcium hardness, dissolve in your pool water in under an hour. But because chlorine-based pool shock is a powerful, highly concentrated dose of chlorine, it takes longer to work in the water.

The goal of adding chlorine shock, like cal-hypo shock or dichlor, is to quickly elevate your chlorine levels. This removes algae, chloramines, and other contaminants by raising your chlorine levels above 10 ppm in a short period of time. And while that high chlorine concentration is great for killing algae and getting rid of chloramines, it’s not safe to swim in. That’s why you need to wait at least 8 hours after adding shock to your water or whenever your chlorine levels drop back to a safe range (ideally 3 ppm, or under 5 ppm). After shocking your pool, always retest your water chemistry by using either a test kit or test strips.

By the way, if you’re still feeling confused about pool chemistry, you’re not alone! Be sure to check out our comprehensive Pool Care Video Course.

When Should You Shock Your Pool?

Shocking helps by balancing pool water after contamination, like after a pool party or after heavy rain. It also prevents algae growth and is a more effective treatment than algaecide if you already have a significant algae bloom.

Pool shock also helps remove chloramines, or combined chlorine, and helps revitalize your existing chlorine. That means your regular chlorine can continue to do its job of sanitizer your water.

What Type of Shock Should You Use?

If you’re dealing with a significant water problem, we recommend using a chlorine-based shock, like calcium hypochlorite (cal-hypo) or dichlor shock. The powerful concentration of chlorine will help kill contaminants and algae. But because they will significantly increase the amount of chlorine in your water, your pool won’t be safe to swim in until your chlorine levels drop back down.

If you’re looking for a shock for regular maintenance or to refresh your sanitizer, use a non-chlorine shock. Also known as oxidizers, non-chlorine shocks allow you to go back to swimming shortly after it’s added to the water. That’s because it won’t affect your chlorine levels. But while this type of shock will help bring balance back to your water, it’s usually not powerful enough for pool owners dealing with major issues like algae.

What Should You Do After Shocking Your Pool?

Once you’ve shocked your pool, allow your filter to circulate the water. Keep the pump running for at least 8 hours after shocking. And remember, always add shock at night if you’re using an unstabilized shock, like cal-hypo. Otherwise, the shock will burn off from the sun.

And if you need a step-by-step walkthrough on how to add shock to your pool water, check out our guide on How to Shock a Pool the Right Way.

Frequently Asked Questions About Shocking Pool

Need more help understanding pool shock? Here are some frequently asked questions and answers.

Can you swim in the pool after you shock a pool?

You need to wait for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours after using a chlorine-based shock before you can swim. And you’ll want to retest your water to make sure your chemical levels are within range. If your free chlorine is at or below 5 ppm and your pH levels are at or below 7.6, it’s likely safe to swim. But always follow the manufacturer’s directions regarding wait times after adding shock.

What happens if you go in a pool that was just shocked?

If you use a pool after adding high contractions of bleach, liquid chlorine, or another type of chlorine-based shock, you may experience skin and eye damage. Chlorine shock and large concentrations of chlorine are highly corrosive. Do not swallow the water. If accidentally swallowed, seek immediate medical attention.

How long should you run a filter after shocking a pool?

Run your pool pump and filter for at least 8 hours after you shock your swimming pool. This provides adequate time for the filter to clean the water and for the pump to circulate the chemicals. If you’re treating algae, plan to run the filter for ideally 24 hours.

Is it okay to shock a pool during the day?

You can shock your pool during the day if you’re using a stabilized chlorine shock that contains cyanuric acid (such as dichlor shock). The cyanuric acid will help protect the chlorine from being destroyed by the sun’s UV rays. However, do not add a shock treatment during the day if you’re using unstabilized chlorine, like calcium hypochlorite (cal-hypo) shock. This type of shock without cyanuric acid will be destroyed by the sun. Check out our guide on the Best Shock for Your Pool for more information.

Why does the pool water turn cloudy after shocking?

It’s normal to experience cloudy water after shocking your pool. This means that the algae and contaminants are dead and suspended in the water. You can use a clarifier or flocculant to clear up your water.

How long do I need to wait to swim after adding other pool chemicals?

You can usually swim within an hour after adding other chemicals to your water. But chlorine shock needs time to circulate and dissipate. For example, if you add calcium chloride to raise your calcium levels, you should wait about an hour for the filter to completely cycle the chemical in your pool. However the dissolving time of other pool chemicals, like muriatic acid or flocculant, depend on how well it was initially mixed into the water. Always retest your water before swimming to make sure your levels are back within the appropriate ranges.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post How Long to Wait to Swim After Shocking a Pool appeared first on Swim University®.