Pool leaks can occur anywhere in your pool. But before you start searching for a leak, you’ll need to rule out a few issues like evaporation or a crack in the filter system plumbing.

Here’s a quick guide on how to find a pool leak and how to fix it yourself. You can watch the quick video below. Or keep reading for the complete pool leak detection tutorial.

How Can You Tell Where Your Pool is Leaking?

Before you run any tests inside your pool, you’ll need to make sure the leak isn’t happening somewhere inside your plumbing or pool equipment. Start by checking your entire filter system area. That includes your pool pump, filter, heater, chlorinator, and any O-ring or connections where you might be losing water. Luckily, these leaks are easy to access.

However, there’s a chance there could be a leak in a part of your plumbing you can’t see. And if you have an inground swimming pool, leaks can happen in cracked piping underground. Regardless, even if you’re not sure if you have a plumbing leak, you’ll first need to test your pool to make sure that you’re not losing water to evaporation.

Does Your Pool Have a Leak or is it Evaporation?

The first step to pool leak detection is to determine if you’re losing water to evaporation. Then, you’ll narrow down the source of the leak. You can do this with the Bucket Test or the Ink Test.

Pool Leak Detection: Bucket Test

This DIY method is easy to do and you likely already have all the supplies you need:

• 5-gallon plastic bucket
• Waterproof marker or duct tape

1. Place and Fill the Bucket. Put your empty 5-gallon bucket in the water on the second step of your pool. Fill the bucket with water to match the pool’s water level. Use the marker or duct tape to mark this level inside the bucket.
2. Turn Off the Pump. Turn off the recirculating pump as well as any other auto-refill device you may have.
3. Compare Water Levels. Wait 24 hours and compare the pool water level to the level of water in the bucket. If both the pool and the bucket water have gone down but remain even, your pool is losing water due to evaporation. But if the swimming pool level is now lower than the level in the bucket, you likely have a leak.
4. Repeat with Pump On. To narrow down the possible source of the leak, repeat the test for another 24-hour period, this time with the pump on.
5. Compare New Results. If the water loss in the pool is greater with water circulating under pressure, the leak is most likely somewhere in your pool’s filter system or plumbing.

By the way, if you want more help whenever you’ve got trouble with your pool, check out our easy-to-follow Pool Care Video Course.

Pool Leak Detection: Dye Test

This method will help you find the exact location of the leak, but it’s a little more involved. You’ll need to purchase a leak finder dye to add directly to your pool water. It’s also handy to have some waterproof tape on hand for marking potential leaky spots in your pool.

1. Check the Ground and Walls Around the Pool for Wetness. If the ground is wet where it shouldn’t be, your pool is likely leaking somewhere near that area and seeping somewhere in the ground. Keep narrowing it down as much as possible before using the leak finder dye.
2. Turn Off the Pump and Water Features. You’ll need the water to be as still as possible before using the dye to help find the location of the leak. This will also help you detect leaks in or near the skimmer.
3. Use the Pool Leak Detection Dye to Pinpoint the Leak. Go to the edge of the swimming pool in the area where you think the leak might be. Without touching the water, squirt the dye in the water close to the surface and the wall. If the leak is near, you will see the dye move towards the exaction location of the leak like a current.

If you suspect your leak is at the bottom of your pool, you’ll need a pair of goggles and swim to the bottom to perform the leak finder test. But you’ll need to be as still as possible when you run the test so the dye doesn’t go everywhere.

1. Mark the Spot for Patching. Use waterproof tape to mark the spot where you spotted the leak detection dye moving towards. This is to help you remember where you need to patch the leak.

If you have a concrete pool or gunite pool and it’s developed cracks, especially where the plastic skimmer meets the pool wall, you’ll need some plaster repair. Check out our complete step-by-step guide on How To Repair Plaster in a Pool. But if your pool has a vinyl liner, you can repair the patch yourself.

How To Fix a Leak in Your Pool’s Vinyl Liner

Leak repair is fairly straightforward in a vinyl liner pool. And a well-placed, quality pool patch can last for years. But no matter what method you use to repair your pool’s liner, patches are temporary. And the bigger your tear, the more likely it will snag or peel off over time.

So before you do any repair, decide if your liner is worth trying to patch or if it’s time to replace it altogether. The older the liner, the thinner it’s become and the more prone it is to spring leaks in the future.

And keep in mind that any area close to the stairs or near your pool’s fittings is being pulled by the weight of your pool water. They’re under more duress than other areas of your pool, so patches there may be less likely to hold up in the long run.

If you do want to repair the leak, there are three methods to choose from and all of them can be used underwater or dry. Do not drain your pool to fix a leak. You shouldn’t need to drain any of your water to apply a patch to a leak. Draining out too much water in an above ground pool can cause the walls to collapse. And emptying out any pool with a vinyl liner will dry it out, making the liner brittle. So plan to patch the liner underwater, unless the leak happens to be dry and above the waterline.

1. Waterproof Tape

Similar to duct tape, this tape is clear, waterproof, and resistant to UV rays. You can overlap this tape if you need to patch large sections. It’s the lowest cost option and the easiest to re-do if you make a mistake. But it’s best for smaller leak repair as it tends to peel over time.

2. Peel-and-Stick Patches

These patches are made of real vinyl and designed specifically for pools. Some patches are pre-cut into round shapes, making them less likely to peel around the edges. They’re also inexpensive and easy to use: simply remove the backing and press of the leak. But they’re also best used on smaller tears or punctures.

3. Vinyl Patch Kit

If you have a larger hole to repair or you want a longer-term solution, use a vinyl patch kit. These kits come with large chunks of blue or clear liner and special underwater vinyl adhesive. These are more complicated to use but they’ll last longer than waterproof tape or a peel-and-stick patch.

If you need more help patching a vinyl liner underwater, check out our guide on How to Patch a Pool Liner.

When To Ask a Professional to Test and Repair a Pool Leak

Pool leak detection services cost several hundred dollars. And while some pool companies might include minor patch jobs in the price, it’s worth it for any pool owner to try some of these methods before paying for a professional to come in.

But if you’re a homeowner with an inground pool and you suspect the leak is underground in your plumbing, you’ll need to call in a pool professional to pressure test the lines for possible cracks.

Remember, if swimming pool leak detection—or any other pool repair—becomes too difficult, or you’re not sure you’re getting the right results, it’s worth consulting a professional

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Pool Leak Detection: How To Quickly Find The Leak Yourself appeared first on Swim University®.

Before you run out to the nearest pool store and plunk down a big ol’ chunk of change, make sure you know what pool supplies are actually necessary. You’ll save yourself some money, and you’ll be ready to take care of your pool like a pro.

NOTE: The following products are available to buy on either Amazon and InTheSwim.com. Check both sites for availability. All the links are affiliate links which means if you click a link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you. It helps us keep the lights on .

Our Favorite Pool Chemicals and Water Testing Supplies

It’s hard to practice good pool maintenance if you don’t have the tools to accomplish it. Stock up on a few essentials, and then build from there. There’s no point in owning a pool if it’s all drudgery. Having the right tools at hand will make your life a lot easier, and allow you to enjoy your pool much more.

Pool Water Testing

We cannot stress how incredibly important water testing is for your pool maintenance. It’s best to test your water at least once a week. Regular testing lets you know when you need to add chemicals to your pool to prevent nasty bacteria and algae from moving in.

Instead, stock up on test strips. They’re not quite as accurate as liquid test kits, but they’re quick and easy to use, and cover all the basic levels you need to keep track of free chlorine, total chlorine, bromine (if you use that instead of chlorine), total hardness, total alkalinity, pH and cyanuric acid.

Pool Water Balancing

You need to balance your pool water by maintaining the proper pH, Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness Levels. There are four different chemicals you need to help balance the water.

For increasing your alkalinity, you can either use our favorite Alkalinity Increaser or baking soda.

NOTE: if you want to lower your alkalinity, you can use muriatic acid.

For controlling your pool pH balance, you can use pH Increaser and pH Decreaser.

And finally, you need to control your calcium hardness level if you have an inground swimming pool. You can use calcium hardness increaser and it’s something you’ll only use about once per year. If you have a quick set-up pool (Intex), then you don’t need calcium hardness. Calcium hardness helps prolong the life of your pool lining whether it’s concrete, fiberglass, or vinyl.

Pool Sanitizer

Our favorite sanitizer for a swimming pool is chlorine. It’s hands down the most effective and widely used one. In fact, if you have a saltwater pool, then you have a chlorine pool because your saltwater generator turns salt into chlorine.

However, if you don’t have a saltwater pool, you can add chlorine using 3″ tablets in either your skimmer basket or a chlorinator. And we recommend that you use a chlorinator (here’s our favorite one).

If you want to reduce your chlorine usage by 50%, then we recommend using PoolRX. This device drops into your skimmer basket and adds minerals to your water. This allows you to keep your chlorine level between 0.5 and 1ppm instead of the normal 1 to 3ppm.

If you have a smaller pool (under 10,000 gallons), then you can use granular chlorine for a hot tub.

Pool Shock

When your pool starts to smell like a hotel pool, it’s time to shock your water. Your pool actually shouldn’t smell like anything. This chemical smell means your sanitizer level is too low and is no longer doing its job.

Giving your pool a shock will bring sanitizer levels up where they need to be, kill bacteria, and ensure your water is clean. It can also help address mild cases of algae.

To accomplish all those things most effectively, choose a calcium hypochlorite or cal hypo shock. Prevent the dreaded hotel pool smell by shocking your water once a week, or at least once every other week. The more you use your pool, the more often you’ll need to shock it.

You’ll also want to shock your pool after major water level changes, pool accidents involving someone’s bowels, severe rainstorms, or when you need to kill pool invaders like algae. Here’s how to shock your swimming pool.

If you have a smaller Intex style pool or don’t have any current water issues, you can use non-chlorine shock which only takes 15 minutes to work. Here’s our favorite non-chlorine shock.

Our Favorite Pool Cleaning Gear

This is our collection of the best pool cleaning gear that every homeowner must-have. We’ve researched and picked what we thought was the best quality gear on the market.

Telescopic Pole

Telescoping poles are versatile cleaning support tools, especially since most come with the option for interchangeable heads. This means you only need one pole to use a pool skimmer, manual vacuum, or pool brush.

Depending on the width of your pool, you won’t have to constantly walk around the deck to chase debris. You’ll also have the ability to shorten the pole for cleaning tasks that require a little less reach and more control, like vacuuming the pool steps.

Pool Skimmer (Leaf Net) and Brushes

The most used tool in pool maintenance is the skimmer/leaf net. It attaches to a telescopic pole so you can collect debris off the surface of the pool. And there are two types:

1. Leaf Net: Deep net to catch a lot of debris.
2. Skimmer: Flat net just for a quick surface skimmer.

We like using leaf net skimmers so you don’t have to keep emptying the skimmer as you clean. You can use a leaf net in one consistent motion.

The other frequently used tool is a brush. And there are two types as well.

1. An algae brush has stainless steel bristles that will easily break algae’s hold on walls, steps, and wherever else it may be hiding. Important: Stainless steel algae brushes are best for concrete or gunite pools.
2. A regular nylon bristle pool brush if you have a vinyl liner to avoid damaging it.

Manual Pool Vacuum Head and Hose

Most compact vacuum cleaner heads are compact, giving you more control when you’re cleaning your pool. Sure, an automatic cleaner can save your time a muscle strain, but it might miss hard-to-reach spaces. A manual option in your pool supplies can help you spot-clean minor problem areas before they become major problem areas.

Tip: To use a manual vacuum, you’ll also need a telescoping pole and a vacuum hose.

Automatic Pool Cleaner

OK, so you don’t absolutely need this one as long as you have a manual vacuum. But an automatic pool cleaner can save you a lot of time and effort by helping to keep your pool clean, even when you’re not around.

Think about it. You have a rough day at work, traffic on the way home is terrible, and all you want to do when you finally get home is take a refreshing dip in your clear, clean pool. Except, while you were at work, a bunch of leaves and other stuff blew into the water, so before you can relax and enjoy your pool, you have to vacuum it. Ugh. You may as well stay inside.

But if you had an automatic cleaner zipping around the pool all day, you’d come home to clear water ready for you to dive in with no hassle at all. We think this makes it one of the most helpful pool supplies you can have in your pool care arsenal.

Our Favorite Pool Accessories

A lot of pool stores will have a ton of supplies they say you absolutely need to get the job done. And you may find other pool supplies later on that you can’t live without. We all have our own ways of handling pool maintenance with little tweaks here and there to reach the same end goal: a clean, healthy pool.

You’ll certainly add to your stock of pool supplies as you become a more seasoned pool owner. Just make sure you have the essentials to keep your pool clean, and you’ll get a lot more enjoyment out of your investment. And isn’t that the way it should be?

Happy Swimming!

The post The Best Pool Supplies You Absolutely Need appeared first on Swim University®.

Need to figure out how many gallons of water are in your pool? Just plug in your pool’s measurements into our pool volume calculator below.

Pool Volume Calculator

Note: The calculator rounds up decimal points, which makes it easier to calculate chemical dosing. But the rounding isn’t enough to throw off your water chemistry calculations.

If you have a more complicated shaped pool, you’ll need to run a few other calculations. We cover how to calculate the volume of an irregular-shaped pool at the end of this guide.

Pool Volume Reference Chart

You can use the pool volume reference chart below to quickly calculate the volume of these common pool sizes.

Note: These are estimates. You’ll always get more accurate results if you measure your pool yourself. And always measure the depth of your water, not the height of your wall.

By the way, if you’re struggling with knowing which pool chemicals to add and when, be sure to check out our Pool Care Video Course. It’s an easy-to-follow guide to help you keep your pool clean and clear.

How to Calculate Pool Volume Step-By-Step

If you need to calculate the volume of an irregular-shaped pool or you’re still feeling confused, check out our video that walks you through how to calculate the volume of water in your pool. Or keep reading for a complete walk-through on these calculations.

Pool Volume Calculation Basics

To get your pool’s volume, you need to calculate your pool’s surface area and average depth. And to do that, you’ll need a few basic metrics:

• Length (L)
• Width (W)
• Depth (D) or Height (H)
• Diameter (d) (for round pools)
• Radius (r) (for round pools)
• Pi (3.14 constant)

Multiply the length and width to get the surface area of a rectangular pool. Then throw in your pool’s depth and you’ll get basic volume calculation.

Another key part of your equation: one cubic foot of water contains 7.5 gallons. So in order to figure out how many gallons your pool holds, you’ll multiply your final cubic foot measurement by 7.5 to find the volume of your pool.

Let’s see what this looks like with different pool shapes.

Rectangular Pool Volume

How you calculate your volume will depend on how the bottom of your pool is laid out.

Constant Depth

The formula for finding the volume of a rectangular pool with one depth (no shallow or deep end) is L × W × D × 7.5 = V (in gallons).

For example, if your swimming pool is 32 feet long, 16 feet wide, and 4 feet deep:

• 32 × 16 × 4 × 7.5 = 15,360 gallons

Variable Depths with a Gradual Slope

If your rectangular pool has more than one depth (shallow end, deep end), you’ll need to do a little more math. First, determine the pool’s average depth. Add the shallow end depth to the deep end depth, and divide by 2.

For example, if your pool’s shallow end is 3 feet, and the deep end is 9 feet, the average depth is 6 feet.

Next, multiply your pool’s length and width and then multiply that number by the average depth. Finally, multiply that figure by 7.5 to calculate the volume of the pool in gallons.

For example, if your pool is 32 feet long, 16 feet wide, and has an average depth of 6 feet:

• 32 × 16 × 6 × 7.5 = 23,040 gallons

Variable Depths with a Drop-Off

If your pool has a definitive drop between the shallow and deep ends, the average depth will be different, even if the shallow end and deep end are still, for example, 3 feet and 9 feet, respectively.

Treat the shallow and deep ends as separate pools. This will allow you to apply the volume of each section using the constant depth formula.

Once you have the volumes of both parts, simply add them together to determine the volume for the whole pool.

Round or Circular Pool Volume

The formula for finding the volume in gallons of a round pool is 3.14 × r2 × D × 7.5 = V (in gallons)

Start by measuring your pool’s diameter, which is measured at its widest point across (i.e. your pool’s length). Then divide the diameter by 2 to get the radius.

Your radius squared is the radius multiplied by the radius. Finally, measure the pool’s depth.

For example, if your pool’s diameter is 18 feet, your radius is 9 feet, and your depth is 4 feet:

• 3.14 × (9 x 9) × 4 x 7.5 = 7630.2 gallons

Irregular-Shaped Pool Volume

If you have an oval, kidney shape, or other irregular-shaped pool, you can still calculate the volume. You’ll just have to do even more math.

The easiest way to calculate an oddly shaped pool is to imagine it broken down into two or three smaller, regularly shaped parts. Try to see smaller, individual squares, rectangles, or circles within the larger, irregular shape.

Once you’ve mapped them out, measure each part. Then use the same formulae above to calculate the volume in each smaller section. Finally, add all the volume figures together, and you’ll have a pretty close approximation of the pool’s total volume.

When To Ask a Professional to Measure Your Pool

If the swimming pool volume calculator or calculations don’t work properly for you because you have an unusual pool shape, or you just want everything to be more accurate, ask a pool professional to take the measurements and figure out the volume for you.

Remember, before you add any chemicals to your pool water, you need to know how many gallons of water are in your pool. Knowing your pool volume is not only critical for adding the right amount of chemicals, it’s absolutely necessary if you’re installing a new pool pump, pool filter, or pool heater. And keep these calculations handy for future reference. You’ll need them often as a pool owner!

The post Pool Volume Calculator: How Many Gallons of Water Does Your Pool Hold? appeared first on Swim University®.

Muriatic acid is a cheap way to lower your pool’s alkalinity and pH and keep your pool filters and surfaces clean. But adding an acid to your pool can be dangerous if it’s not done safely.

Pool-grade muriatic acid is similar to hydrochloric acid that’s used to clean concrete and brick — just with a lower concentration of hydrogen chloride. However, it’s still an acid, and it’s still highly corrosive. It can corrode everything from metal to plastics to clothing. It can also cause severe burns and injury when if it comes into contact with your skis, eyes, or respiratory tract if you inhale its fumes.

Even though muriatic acid is very useful and affordable to have around as a pool owner, it can be hazardous to handle if you’re not sure what you’re doing. So when should you use muriatic acid? And how much should you add to balance your water’s pH and alkalinity?

Here’s a simple guide on how to safely add muriatic acid to your pool. You can watch the quick video below or keep reading for a complete muriatic acid tutorial.

What Is Muriatic Acid Used For in Pools?

Muriatic acid is useful for lowering high alkalinity and pH levels in your water, cleaning cartridge filters or D.E. grids, and removing pool surface stains.

1. Lowers Total Alkalinity and pH

Muriatic acid can help balance your water chemistry by lowering the total alkalinity and pH levels in your pool. It’ll likely lower both levels together, since alkalinity and pH work hand-in-hand. But they may decrease at different rates.

Why is that? Since pH is naturally unstable in your water, it relies on alkalinity as a “buffer” to help prevent it from changing too much, too fast. So as your total alkalinity drops into its normal range (like after you add muriatic acid), it’ll help pull down your pH into its appropriate range, too.

If this kind of pool water chemistry has you confused, be sure to check out our guide on Basic Pool Chemistry 101.

So why is high pH and alkalinity a problem? If your pH is too high, it can cause cloudy water and your chlorine won’t sanitize as well. And less effective chlorine means a risk of algae blooms. High pH can also cause scaling and calcium build-up, which can damage your circulation system and filter. Your pH levels should be between 7.4 and 7.6.

Similarly, if your total alkalinity is too high, it can also cause scale to build up inside your pool and circulation system. It can also drag your pH levels up with it, throwing the rest of your water chemistry out of whack. Your alkalinity levels should be between 100 and 150 parts per million (ppm), with 125 ppm being ideal.

Now it’s important to note that high alkalinity levels will naturally decrease overtime on their own. But high total alkalinity can precipitate other issues, like high pH and ineffective chlorine, which can lead to algae. So it’s often worth addressing high alkalinity levels before they can cause more trouble.

2. Cleans Cartridge Filters and D.E. Grids

If your pool uses a cartridge filter or D.E. filter, you may already have muriatic acid on hand. It’s commonly used to deep clean cartridge filters and it’s especially useful in breaking down the gooey residue that builds up in the pleats.

Muriatic acid is also very effective at cleaning diatomaceous earth or D.E. filter grids. Calcium scale deposits can clog up the grid’s pores, but soaking it in a solution of muriatic acid can help break down any buildup.

We walk through how to clean your filters with muriatic acid at the end of this article.

3. Removes Pool Surface Stains

Muriatic acid is also a powerful stain remover. It can remove rust stains off of your pool’s surfaces, resurface your concrete pool deck and clean the grout between your swimming pool tile.

However, as effective as it is in removing old, stubborn pool stains, it can be too harsh. Using acid can cause unnecessary corrosion, damage vinyl liners, and discolor your plaster. So be sure to test it on smaller pool surface areas first. And never leave a jug of muriatic acid out on your concrete deck: it could leave a ring!

By the way, if you’re feeling confused or overwhelmed by pool maintenance, check out our pool maintenance video course. It’s an easy-to-use guide for everything you need to know about keeping your pool clean and clear!

Is Muriatic Acid Safe To Use?

When handled properly, muriatic acid is an extremely handy and affordable pool maintenance tool. But because it’s an acid, it’s incredibly important to follow some safety measures:

• Always wear face protection, including a respirator, acid-resistant gloves, eye protection, and fully-covering clothing. Remember, this highly corrosive acid can damage your skin, lungs, and eyes if the liquid or fumes come into contact with your body.
• Dilute your muriatic acid in water for the safest application. This means adding muriatic acid slowly and carefully to a bucket that’s already full of water. Never add water to acid, as that could kick up the acid onto you. And always use an acid-resistant plastic container.
• Store muriatic acid in the container that it came in. And always keep it away from other acids and pool chemicals. Never mix chemicals together!
• Keep a hose or water source nearby to wash your skin in case you accidentally splash yourself. And use baking soda to quickly neutralize any acid.

How To Lower pH and Alkalinity with Muriatic Acid

While buying a pH decreaser is an easy solution to lower both your pH and total alkalinity, muriatic acid is a cheaper option. pH decreasers, also known as dry acid, come in a powder form and are definitely milder than muriatic acid. They’re a little safer to use but more costly. Plus you may already have muriatic acid on hand for cleaning your pool filters and surfaces.

Before you start mixing up pool chemicals, you need the right safety gear. Remember, muriatic acid is extremely caustic. It can burn your skin in seconds, and the vapor from acid can cause serious respiratory problems without the proper protection.

You’ll need a few things to keep yourself protected:

• Safety goggles
• Acid-resistant gloves
• Chemical-resistant apron
• Plastic 5-gallon bucket
• Wooden or plastic stirrer

You’ll also need to buy pool-grade muriatic acid. Because it’s a hazardous material, it can be difficult to order online. But you can find it at your local pool stores. Some hardware stores carry muriatic acid for pools, but it’s usually a weaker formula.

​​Here’s the type of muriatic acid we recommend if you’re shopping online. It’s safer and easier to use than standard muriatic acid, but it can be more expensive:

1. Test Your Pool Water

Before you add anything, you’ll need an accurate measurement of pH and total alkalinity in your pool. Test strips work pretty well, but digital test kits are even more precise.

No matter the reading, lowering your pool’s alkalinity with muriatic acid is best done in stages, adding no more than ½ gallon of muriatic acid at a time. So plan to retest your water throughout this process.

2. Calculate How Much Muriatic Acid to Add

First, you’ll need to know how many gallons of water your pool holds. If you’re not sure the volume of your pool, you can use our pool calculator.

The label on your muriatic acid should help you determine how much acid to add. But if it doesn’t, you can plug your figures into an online calculator or use the chart below.

Aim to bring your pH down to just below the optimal range. This should be enough muriatic acid to bring your alkalinity down to normal. In general, 20 ounces of acid will lower the alkalinity in a 10,000 gallon by 10 ppm.

But what happens if your pH drops too low after adding muriatic acid? If you need to nudge your pH upward, you can run your pump to aerate your pool and gently bring your pool pH levels up.

Remember, you can always add more muriatic acid if you need to. So start slowly and add only up to ½ gallon of muriatic acid at a time.

3. Turn Your Pump To Circulate

Set your pool pump to circulate before adding muriatic acid. This will help disperse the acid in your water when you add it. You should also turn off any water features, including aerators and fountains. Air in your water can raise your pH, which is the opposite of what you’re trying to do at this stage!

4. Add the Muriatic Acid

Diluting the muriatic acid in a bucket of water makes it easier and safer to handle. The ideal ratio of water to muriatic acid is 10:1 but always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

First, add water to an acid-resistant bucket. Then add the appropriate ratio of acid, stirring it gently with a plastic or wooden stir stick. Always add water to your bucket first, not acid. If you add the acid first, you run the risk of splashback.

Also, be sure to rinse your muriatic acid bucket thoroughly after every use, and do not use it for any other pool chemicals. You could cause a chemical reaction or explosion.

If you do want to add muriatic acid directly to your pool, start by pouring the muriatic acid into the deep end of your water. Be sure to walk away as you pour so you don’t inhale the fumes.

5. Let the Muriatic Acid Circulate

Keep your pump on for at least 30 minutes immediately after adding the muriatic acid. Again, be sure your pump is set to “circulate” to help the muriatic acid mix in. This will prevent the acid from settling on the bottom of your pool and damaging your pool surfaces.

Some pool owners leave their pumps off during this time and let the acid concentrate to better affect their alkalinity levels. This approach is called pooling. But remember: muriatic acid is extremely caustic and will eat into your pool floor if you leave it to settle. You’ll need to constantly brush the pool floor to prevent the acid from doing damage. That’s why we recommend turning on your pump to circulate the water at this phase.

6. Retest Your Pool Water

Retest your water after a few hours. You should notice a difference in your water chemistry at that point. If your alkalinity hasn’t gone down far enough, you can add another dose of muriatic acid.

Keep testing and adding muriatic acid in doses of ½ gallon or less, repeating as many times as necessary to get the alkalinity back down. It’s not unusual for it to take a couple of doses. But if you can’t seem to get your alkalinity and pH under control, take your water to your trusted pool store for testing. Your problem could be one of testing accuracy, not actual chemistry.

7. Aerate Your Pool

If your pH dipped too low but your alkalinity reading is good, you can aerate your water. Adding air is a natural way to raise your pH without having to chemically bring your pH back up. Chemicals like pH increaser end up raising alkalinity as well – and you’re back to the problem you had when you started!

To aerate, turn your return jets upward and turn your pump on its highest setting. And turn on any water features you have as well, like an aerator or a fountain.

Then check your pH again in another day to see if it’s risen up to normal levels. If the pH still needs to be increased significantly, you may actually need a chemical pH increaser. Just be sure to add a little bit at a time, since it can affect alkalinity.

How to Safely Clean Your Filter with Muriatic Acid

A 20:1 ratio of water to muriatic acid is usually sufficient for cleaning your cartridge or D.E. filter grids. Just be sure to follow all of the safety steps mentioned before. Regardless of what type of filter you have, the process is generally the same:

1. Remove the cartridge filter or filter manifold.
2. Use a spray nozzle on your garden hose to spray down the cartridge or manifold, making sure to get between the pleats.
3. Fill a large, acid-proof bucket with water. Then add the correct ratio of muriatic acid (20:1 water to acid). Make sure the cartridge or grids are completely submerged.
4. Let the cartridge or grids soak overnight. Then rinse it thoroughly, spraying it with a hose.
5. Return the cartridge or grids to your filter and secure it in place.

For more help cleaning your cartridge or D.E. filter, check out our Filter Cleaning Guide.

Frequently Asked Questions About Muriatic Acid

Looking for more help using muriatic acid in your pool? Here are some common questions and answers.

How long does muriatic acid take to lower alkalinity?

You’ll likely notice a difference in your water chemistry an hour or two after the muriatic acid has circulated. Retest your water at that point. If your pH and alkalinity levels are still too high, add another round of pool acid in ½ gallon doses or less. Remember you can always add more, so take your time.

Is muriatic acid the same as cyanuric acid?

No, these are different. Other types of acids used in pools, like cyanuric acid, aren’t used for adjusting pH or alkalinity levels like muriatic acid.

Can you pour muriatic acid directly into a pool?

Yes, you can add muriatic acid directly to your swimming pool water. But it’s safer if you dilute it in a bucket of water first. If you do want to add it directly to your pool, pour it into the deepest part of the pool, walking away as you pour so you don’t inhale any of the fumes. And always wear the appropriate safety gear.

How much muriatic acid do you put in a pool?

If your pH levels are above 7.8 and you have an average-sized pool (15,000 gallons), you’ll need about a quart (or ¼ gallon) of muriatic acid to bring your levels within range. There are usually dosing instructions on the label of pool-grade muriatic acids. Otherwise, you can use this online calculator or the dosing chart below.

What happens if I put too much muriatic acid in the pool?

Adding too much muriatic acid can drop your pH levels too low. Low pH can cause eye irritation and skin rashes. It can also erode metals like pool ladders, railings, nuts and bolts, and other pool equipment.

If you accidentally add too much muriatic acid and your pH levels have dropped too low, you can raise them back up with soda ash or pH increaser. And if you haven’t added your muriatic acid yet, go slowly. You can always add more later after you retest your water.

When can I swim after adding muriatic acid?

To be safe, wait at least an hour for the muriatic acid to dissipate, then retest your pool water before swimming again. Adding muriatic acid directly to your pool can create an “acid hot spot” in the water. This can burn or irritate your skin, eyes, nose, and throat if you swim too early. The longer you wait, the safer it is.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a step-by-step downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

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