One of the easiest and least expensive ways to prevent a child from being injured or drowning in your swimming pool is a pool alarm. The safest and most reliable type of pool alarm is a subsurface sensor pool alarm. But there are additional types of pool alarms, like threshold alarms, that you might want to consider if you want to keep your pool extra safe. Here are our top picks for the best pool alarms for both inground and above-ground swimming pools.

NOTE: The following pool alarms are available to buy on Amazon. All the links are affiliate links which means if you click a link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you. It helps us keep the lights on

The Best Pool Alarm for Inground Pools

The Pool Guard inground pool alarm detects any significant motion in your water and sets off an alarm both at the pool and in your house. Installed at the edge of your pool, this battery-powered alarm is tamper-proof and simple to operate. This pool alarm also meets ASTM standards.

The Best Pool Alarm for Above Ground Pools

The PoolEye pool alarm is perfect for 24-foot or smaller pools and very easy to install. Simply remove a section of rail to install the sensor, then you can slip the railing right back into place. When something has disturbed the pool, the alarm emits a high-pitched siren sound. However, this pool alarm only goes off poolside, so remember to check your local code requirements before you buy.

Do Pool Alarms Really Work?

Yes, but certain types of alarms are more effective and reliable than others. Pool alarms use underwater sensors to monitor when something with significant weight, like a child or pet, enters your pool water. And according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, subsurface pool alarms are the most effective at detecting something in your pool water. Compared to surface wave sensor alarms, subsurface alarms are more reliable and less likely to trigger false alarms.

Why Should You Install a Pool Alarm?

Most pool-related accidents and drownings could have been prevented with the right safety precautions, like a pool alarm. And depending on where you live, a pool alarm is required by law.

Be sure to check with your local code enforcement department before you buy a pool alarm to ensure you’re in compliance with the rules and laws where you live.

What’s the Best Type of Pool Alarm?

There are three types of pool alarms: subsurface disturbance sensors, surface wave sensors, and threshold pool alarms.

Each type works a little differently, and they can be used together to make your pool even safer. Floating surface alarms are very easy to set up compared to subsurface sensors. However, tests show that subsurface pool alarms are more consistent and reliable than surface alarms. We recommend using a subsurface pool alarm and a threshold pool alarm together. This combination will help detect if anything has gotten into your pool enclosure (threshold alarm) or if anything significant has fallen into the water (subsurface pool alarm).

The Best Subsurface Sensor Pool Alarms

One of the most effective and reliable types of pool alarms, subsurface sensors are permanent installations. Once installed, the sensing arm extends down into the water and constantly monitors for water disturbances.

Poolguard PGRM-2 Inground Pool Alarm

This simple-looking pool alarm comes with an in-house remote receiver. You’ll need to drill a small hole in your pool deck for installation. Then the alarm sits neatly on the side of your pool in the default, always-on mode. If it detects any water disturbances, the alarm will sound at the pool and through the in-house receiver up to 200 feet away.

When you want to go for a swim, set the alarm to sleep mode and remove the sensing arm from the water. As soon as you put it back into your pool, it’s activated, eliminating the possibility of forgetting to turn it back on. It’s also ASTM certified.

PoolEye Above Ground Pool Alarm

If you have an above ground pool, the PoolEye is a great option that requires no drilling. You’ll need to remove a section of rail to install the sensor, then you can slip it right back on. It’s rated for 24-foot or smaller pools.

One downfall: the PoolEye does not come with a remote receiver of any kind, so it only sounds an alarm poolside. Remember to check your local code requirements before you buy any pool alarm.

The Best Threshold Pool Alarms

These simple pool alarms are installed anywhere a person could gain access to your pool, such as sliding glass doors or windows. Threshold alarms help prevent anyone (or anything) from entering your pool area without you knowing.

iSmartAlarm DWS3R Contact Sensor

iSmart’s home security alarm uses wireless contact sensors that can be placed on doors and windows that open to your pool area. If anyone opens the door or window, the connection between the sensors is broken, and an alarm goes off.

Because it’s part of a home security solution, you can add other components, such as motion detectors and cameras.

Poolguard GAPT-2 Outdoor Pool Gate Alarm

A gate alarm like Poolguard GAPT-2 is made to be installed on gates and screens where other alarms might not work.

Once the gate has been open for a few seconds, the alarm will sound. Pressing the pass-through button turns the alarm off so adults can easily come and go without setting the alarm off every time. Because this is a simple matter of pushing a button, it’s imperative to install the alarm control unit out of children’s reach.

By the way, if you’re feeling frustrated by never-ending pool probrems, check out our pool maintenance video course today.

The Best Surface Wave Sensor Pool Alarm

If for whatever reason you can’t install a subsurface sensor alarm, a surface wave sensor pool alarm is the next best option. Surface wave sensors work by floating on your pool’s surface and measuring any disturbance of the water. They’re more effective in smaller pools with smaller surface areas, but they work for both inground and above-ground pools. This type of alarm is also useful if you’re traveling with children and you plan to use someone’s pool without an alarm system.

Pool Patrol PA-30 Pool Alarm

This little blue disc looks a lot like a floating chlorine dispenser. It also features a remote receiver that works 200 feet away, so the alarm will sound through the receiver and in your pool. An indicator light lets you check with a glance whether the remote is on.

You can adjust the sensitivity of the sensing ring so it will only react to disturbances the size of a small animal or child but not, say, a breeze. This little alarm is also easy to take along when you visit someone with a pool that’s not child-safe.

How Much Does It Cost to Install a Pool Alarm?

Pool alarms usually cost between $100 and $200. With the right tools on hand, you can install a pool alarm yourself. Some types of alarms require power tools to screw in and properly mount the device.

Regardless of the cost, pool alarms are worth the peace of mind knowing your children and pets are safe. Here’s a recap of the pool alarms we recommend.

• PoolGuard In-Ground Pool Alarm
• PoolEye Above Ground Pool Alarm

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a step-by-step downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post The Best Pool Alarms To Keep Kids Safe appeared first on Swim University®.

Cyanuric acid (CYA), also known as chlorine stabilizer or pool conditioner, is a chemical that helps stabilize the chlorine in your pool. It protects your chlorine from breaking down under the sun’s UV rays. The right levels of cyanuric acid help your chlorine last longer, which means your sanitizer can continue to kill bacteria, contaminants, and algae.

But having too much or too little cyanuric acid in your pool can reduce your chlorine’s effectiveness and even damage your equipment. Here’s everything you need to know about how cyanuric acid works with chlorine and how to raise or lower your cyanuric acid levels.

You can watch the quick video tutorial below. Or keep reading for the step-by-step guide on how to adjust your cyanuric acid levels.

How Does Cyanuric Acid Work in a Pool?

Cyanuric acid, or chlorine stabilizer, reduces the amount of chlorine that’s lost from the sun’s UV rays. It helps your chlorine last longer, which means it sanitizes your pool water longer.

If you have an outdoor pool without stabilizer, your chlorine will dissipate in a few hours, leaving your pool unprotected and unsanitized. Within just 17 minutes of exposure to UV rays, half of your chlorine will be gone. Adding cyanuric acid helps your chlorine last 3-5 times longer.

Pools with very low or no cyanuric acid will have significant chlorine demand or a consistent inability to maintain chlorine levels. Unstabilized chlorine (i.e. chlorine without cyanuric acid) is destroyed by UV rays very quickly.

Because cyanuric acid protects chlorine from the sun’s harmful UV rays, CYA is recommended for outdoor pools only. This is also because cyanuric acid stays in a pool for a long time, even after the water evaporates. Always check your cyanuric acid levels before adding more stabilizer to your water.

What Are the Right Cyanuric Acid Levels?

The ideal range for cyanuric acid is between 30 and 50 ppm. Maintaining the right balance between cyanuric acid and chlorine is crucial for a sanitized pool. Too much cyanuric acid and your chlorine’s effectiveness decreases. Too little cyanuric acid and your chlorine will break down under the sun’s UV rays.

Aim to keep free chlorine levels at 7.5 percent of cyanuric acid levels. If your pool has CYA levels at 50 ppm, you’ll need to keep your free chlorine levels at 3 ppm to effectively sanitize your water. In general, your free chlorine should be between 1 ppm and 3 ppm.

Remember, more cyanuric acid does not mean more protection from the sun. If your CYA levels are over 50 ppm, you may experience algae growth or cloudy pool water. That’s because your chlorine’s effectiveness is reduced. If your CYA levels are 100 ppm or higher, you may not even be able to get an accurate reading on a test strip. Consider taking a sample to a pool supply store or using a test kit that measures up to 300 ppm.

If you’re tired of constantly troubleshooting your pool and want to learn how to never deal with cyanuric acid problems again, check out our pool maintenance video course today!

What Causes High Cyanuric Acid Levels?

Many chlorine products, like trichlor or dichlor granules or tablets, already include cyanuric acid. These are known as stabilized chlorine products. So every time you add chlorine to your pool, you’re adding CYA. On the other hand, unstabilized chlorine, like liquid chlorine, does not contain cyanuric acid. You can learn more about the difference between stabilized and unstabilized chlorine here.

If you do need to add cyanuric acid to your pool, it’s sold as a separate product, which is often called stabilizer or conditioner. Here is the CYA we recommend:

But be careful how much extra CYA you add to your water. It’s very hard to lower your CYA levels if they’re too high. And cyanuric acid does not evaporate or break down like chlorine, so it will stay in your pool water. It can even hang around in your filtration system and pool plaster.

How to Lower Cyanuric Acid in Your Pool

The only effective way to lower your cyanuric acid levels is to partially drain your pool and refill it with fresh water. If you think your cyanuric acid is too high, the first step is to stop adding more CYA to your pool before diluting your water.

1. Test Your Pool Water

Test your pool water to see if your cyanuric acid levels are between 30 and 50 ppm. Some test strips will measure CYA levels, but a liquid test kit will give you a more accurate reading. You can also bring a water sample to your local pool store for testing. Most tests don’t register cyanuric acid levels above 100 ppm, so multiple tests may be needed as you attempt to bring your levels down. You may also want to look for a test kit capable of measuring CYA at 300 ppm.

2. Stop Using Stabilized Chlorine

Check to see whether you’re using stabilized chlorine, which already contains small amounts of cyanuric acid. If you see these chemicals listed on the label, your chlorine contains CYA:

• potassium dichloroisocyanurate
• sodium dichloroisocyanurate
• trichloroisocyanurate

If you find this is the issue, switch to chlorine without cyanuric acid to prevent your high CYA levels from getting worse.

3. Dilute Your Pool Water

If your cyanuric acid levels are very high, you must dilute your pool water. Partially drain some of your pool water by using a manual vacuum on your filter’s waste setting. Then refill your pool with fresh water. In general, if your cyanuric acid levels are 10% too high, you’ll want to remove and replace about 10% of your pool water. Be aware that cyanuric acid can hang around in your filtration system, so if you have extremely high levels of CYA, you may want to backwash or change your filter.

4. Circulate and Retest Your Cyanuric Acid Levels

Run your pump for a few hours to circulate the freshwater. Then retest your cyanuric acid levels again. If they are still too high, repeat the process of diluting your pool water.

Do Cyanuric Acid Reducers Work?

Cyanuric acid reducers have mixed results. These products claim to reduce cyanuric acid levels by 50%. But many customers have reported that it did not reduce their CYA levels at all.

Cyanuric acid reducers are biologically based, so they work slowly. It can take a week or more to reduce your CYA levels. And the chlorine in your pool can destroy the helpful bacteria found in a cyanuric acid reducer. You’ll need to keep your chlorine levels low (around 1 ppm) when using this product.

Finally, cyanuric acid reducers are not cheap. You could partially drain and refill your pool for roughly the same cost, depending on the water utility costs in your area. If you cannot dilute your pool water because of drought conditions or municipality restrictions, it might be worth trying a cyanuric acid reducer.

How to Raise Cyanuric Acid in Your Pool

If you’re using stabilized chlorine (like dichlor or trichlor), you probably won’t need to add any extra cyanuric acid to your pool water. However, if you do need to add CYA to your pool separately from your chlorine, you’ll likely only need to add it once or twice per year. Remember, cyanuric acid does not break down in the water and can stay in your pool for a long time.

Because CYA is an acid, it can damage your filter and your pool, especially if you have a vinyl liner. Here is the safe way to add cyanuric acid, also known as stabilizer or conditioner, to your pool.

You’ll need the following supplies:

• Cyanuric acid (a.k.a. conditioner or stabilizer)
• A 5-gallon bucket
• Safety goggles
• Acid-resistant gloves
• Warm water

To add cyanuric acid to your pool:

1. Fill the bucket at least halfway with warm water.
2. Put on your goggles and gloves.
3. Add a dose of cyanuric acid to the bucket. Check the product instructions for the right dose based on your pool size. As a general rule, you’ll need to add 13 ounces of cyanuric acid to gain 10 ppm of CYA in a 10,000-gallon pool. Remember, the proper levels for CYA are 30 to 50 ppm.
4. Pour the contents of the bucket directly into your skimmer.
5. Run your pool pump for at least a few hours after. Letting the pump run is like stirring the solution into your pool, just without having to use an enormous spoon.

Note: Some packages of cyanuric acid say to add the chemical directly to the skimmer without first combining it with water. Always read the manufacturer’s instructions before using.

How to Maintain the Right Cyanuric Acid Levels

To keep your cyanuric acid levels balanced, regularly test your pool water — especially if you’re using stabilized chlorine or you tend to have problems with high CYA.

Use test strips that measure cyanuric acid and check your water chemistry once a week. Be sure to test your pool water after a rainstorm, as that will dilute your water and lower your CYA levels.

Remember, your free chlorine levels should be about 7.5 percent of your CYA levels. That means if your pool has 50 ppm of cyanuric acid, you’ll need to keep free chlorine at 3 ppm.

Frequently Asked Questions about Cyanuric Acid

Looking for more help with using cyanuric acid in your pool? Here are some common questions and answers.

Is Cyanuric Acid Harmful?

While cyanuric acid is technically an acid, it’s very different from other acids like muriatic acid. Cyanuric acid can dissolve in water and does not significantly affect your pH, alkalinity, or calcium hardness levels.

However, like other pool chemicals, it must be handled with caution. It can cause severe burns if it comes in contact with your skin or eyes. And its fumes can burn your nose or lungs if inhaled. Always wear acid-resistant rubber gloves, eye protection, long sleeve clothing, and handle CYA in a well-ventilated area.

Is There Another Name for Cyanuric Acid?

Cyanuric acid is called CYA, stabilizer, or conditioner. It is sold separately as conditioner and stabilizer or included in chlorine products like trichlor or dichlor.

Does Pool Shock Contain Cyanuric Acid?

Some pool shock, like dichlor shock, contain cyanuric acid. Unless you need to raise your CYA levels, use an unstabilized chlorine shock without CYA. We recommend using calcium hypochlorite shock, also known as cal-hypo shock.

Is Cyanuric Acid the Same as Baking Soda?

No, cyanuric acid and baking soda work in very different ways in your pool. Baking soda raises the total alkalinity in your pool. But baking soda does not protect or stabilize your chlorine, like cyanuric acid.

What Raises Cyanuric Acid in a Pool?

You can raise your cyanuric acid levels by adding a pool conditioner or stabilizer. If you do need to add cyanuric acid to your pool, here is the CYA we recommend:

How Do High Cyanuric Acid Levels Affect a Pool?

When cyanuric acid levels get too high, it can hinder the effectiveness of your chlorine. If your chlorine test shows very or little chlorine even right after you’ve added it to the pool, your cyanuric acid may be too high. The only way to reduce CYA levels is to dilute your water by draining and refilling your pool.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a step-by-step downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Cyanuric Acid: Why Your Pool Needs It and How To Balance It appeared first on Swim University®.

Pool algae is caused by low chlorine levels, poor water chemistry, or bad filtration. It can also be introduced into your pool by swimwear or toys that were used in natural bodies of water. If you notice the early stages of algae, it’s time to act fast. Leave it for too long and it will multiply rapidly, turning into a full-scale algae bloom.

Unfortunately, typical doses of chlorine will not kill pool algae. And running your pool filter will not eliminate algae spores.

To get rid of algae in your pool, follow these step-by-step deep cleaning procedures. Then avoid algae blooms in the future by using these smart pool algae prevention measures.

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep reading for the complete troubleshooting guide on how to get rid of algae in your pool.

What Causes Pool Algae?

Algae spores are everywhere. They can get into your pool through rain, dirt, and even wind. But those pervasive algae spores become a problem when they multiply in your pool water, turn into an algae bloom, or start growing on your pool walls. Low chlorine levels, improper pH levels, or clogged, dirty filters create the perfect conditions for algae growth. Algae can also be introduced by contaminated swimwear or toys that were used in a river, pond, lake, or ocean with algae.

Algae prevention is a lot easier than treating an existing large algae problem. That’s why it’s so important to keep your pool water balanced, clean your filter system and wash off any swimwear or toys that have been used in natural bodies of water.

What Are The Different Types Of Pool Algae?

Knowing what type of pool algae you have will help you treat it. First, figure out what color algae is in your pool. Then, keep reading for a complete step-by-step walkthrough on how to get rid of algae.

• Green pool algae is the most common and easiest algae to kill. However, this floating-green algae spreads quickly, clouding up your pool water and causing green slime on pool surfaces. Getting rid of green algae involves vacuuming and brushing your pool, then shocking and filtering your water.
• Yellow pool algae, also called brown or mustard algae, is a rarer form of algae found in humid climates. It looks like globs of pollen or sand that cling to the shady corners of your pool. And unfortunately, it is chlorine-resistant. Killing mustard algae involves multiple rounds of brushing your pool surfaces and adding extra shock to your pool water. If you’re wondering if you have yellow algae, check out our guide on how to get rid of mustard algae in a pool.
• Black pool algae is actually a bacteria. Its roots dig into concrete surfaces, making it extremely tough to kill. Getting rid of black algae requires several rounds of deep cleaning, and it will grow back quickly if you aren’t thorough. If you’re wondering if you have black algae, check out our complete guide on how to diagnose and kill black algae in your pool.

How Do I Get Rid of Algae In My Pool FAST?

You can get rid of algae quickly by vacuuming and brushing your pool, balancing your pool’s water chemistry, and then shocking and filtering your pool water. Just be thorough as you clean your pool surfaces. If you leave behind even a small number of algae spores, it won’t be long before they regrow and bloom again.

1. Vacuum Your Pool Manually

Automatic or robotic pool cleaners aren’t well suited for cleaning algae. You’ll need to manually vacuum your pool on your filter’s Waste setting. This allows you to bypass your filter, preventing contaminated, algae-filled water from recirculating back into your pool.

When you vacuum your pool manually, pay special attention to areas with algae. And be sure to refill your pool’s water as you vacuum, maintaining your water level at least halfway up the skimmer. If you want to learn how to properly vacuum your pool, check out our guide on how to use a manual pool vacuum.

2. Brush Your Pool Walls and Floor

Scrubbing the algae off your pool walls helps chlorine get deeper into the remaining algae. It also loosens up contaminants so they can be killed and filtered out.

Using a stiff pool brush on a pole, brush the walls and floor of your pool. Pay special attention to corners and shady areas where algae is usually worst. As you go, your water will become cloudy, obstructing your view, so brush the tougher spots first.

If you have a concrete or gunite pool, use a pool brush with stainless steel bristles to remove algae from your pool walls. Otherwise, we recommend using a nylon bristle pool brush:

3. Test and Balance the Water

Use test strips, a digital kit, or a liquid test kit to test your alkalinity and pH. Balancing your water chemistry now ensures your sanitizer will be effective against the algae. High pH or low alkalinity will especially inhibit pool shock.

4. Shock Your Swimming Pool

Adding shock to your pool super-chlorinates your water. And this extra dose of sanitizer will kill algae growth. The more serious your pool algae problem, the more shock you’ll need.

We recommend using calcium hypochlorite shock, or cal-hypo shock, as an effective algae treatment. Follow the package instructions to determine the dose for your pool size, then multiply that by two, three, or four depending on which type of algae you’ve got.

• Green Algae: Double dose of shock (x2)
• Yellow or Dark Green Algae: Triple dose of shock (x3)
• Black Algae: Quadruple dose of shock (x4)

Here is the type of cal-hypo shock we recommend:

Remember to shock your pool at dusk or night. If you shock during the day, the sun will eat up most of the chlorine before it has a chance to kill the algae. And put your cleaning equipment, like your vacuum head or pool brush, in the shallow end of your pool so your tools will get sanitized while the shock is in the water.

Be sure to run your filter for eight hours or overnight to circulate the shock. If there’s still a significant amount of algae in your pool, repeat the brushing and shocking process again.

If you need help shocking your pool, check out our guide on how to use pool shock.

5. Filter Out The Pool Algae

After your shock treatment kills the algae, it’ll turn your water a cloudy blue. Run your filter continuously for a minimum of eight hours or until the water clears up.

6. Test Your Pool Water Again

Make sure your water chemistry is balanced and your chlorine level is back to normal before anyone gets back into the water. Adjust your alkalinity, pH, and chlorine levels as needed. You may also want to test your cyanuric acid and calcium hardness levels since you’ve removed water from your pool and replaced it with fresh water.

7. Clean Your Pool Filter

Your filter just processed a lot of contaminated water. And the last thing you want is your dirty filter slowly adding microscopic algae spores back into your pool. Deep clean your filter cartridges by soaking them in diluted muriatic acid, or by replacing them entirely. If you have a sand or D.E. filter, now’s the time to backwash.

Want to stop your pool from ever turning green again? Check out our pool care video course. You’ll learn how to keep your pool chemistry in check so you never have to deal with algae outbreaks in the future.

Can You Use Algaecide to Get Rid of Pool Algae?

No, we do not recommend using algaecide to get rid of a large algae problem. But algaecide is effective for early-stage algae growth, small amounts of algae, or as a preventive measure. For more information on using algaecide, check out our article The Truth About Using Pool Algaecide.

After vacuuming, brushing and shocking your pool, you can use an algaecide to help kill any remaining algae. Wait for your chlorine levels to fall below 5 ppm after shocking your pool. Then add a dose of algaecide. Brush your pool to loosen any last bits of algae you can’t see. The algaecide will help kill remaining algae particles before they’re filtered out.

Here’s the algaecide we recommend. Add this as a final step in the algae clean up process or as a preventative measure in your pool:

Can You Use Pool Flocculant to Remove Pool Algae?

Yes, you can use pool flocculant to treat the early stages of algae growth. This additive bonds to floating algae particles, making it easier to vacuum them out of your pool. But if you have anything more serious than a mild green algae problem, we recommend you follow the full cleaning plan.

Here is the pool flocculant we recommend for milder algae problems:

Here’s how to use pool flocculant to get rid of early-stage algae:

1. If you have a multiport valve on your filter, shut off your pump and turn the valve to Recirculate or Recycle. This will mix the floc around without filtering the water. If you need help understanding your multiport valve, check out our guide on how to use a multiport valve.
2. Add the recommended dosage of flocculant to your pool.
3. Circulate your water for two hours, then shut off your pump and let it sit overnight. The floc will bind to the algae, then settle on the pool floor.
4. Turn the multiport valve set to Waste so dirty water doesn’t blast back into your pool through your return lines.
5. Hook up your backwash hose to the Backwash/Waste port. Direct your wastewater appropriately.
6. Vacuum your pool. Work slowly to make sure you get all the thick sediment off the bottom. If the water gets too cloudy, you may need to stop and allow the particles to settle again before continuing to vacuum.
7. Add water while you’re vacuuming to maintain your pool’s water level.
8. Double shock immediately after vacuuming to eliminate any remaining algae. You may also want to brush the pool sides and floor before shocking.
9. Run your filter until the water clears.

How to Prevent Algae in Your Pool

Following these basic pool maintenance principles will help prevent future algae issues.

• Test and balance your water once a week, after rainstorms, or after heavy use (like pool parties). Adjust your alkalinity, pH, and chlorine levels as needed
• Shock your pool once a week during peak pool season
• Run your pump 8 to 12 hours per day to fully circulate your water
• Clean or backwash your filter regularly
• Wash and sanitize your swimwear, pool equipment, floats, and toys before introducing them back into your pools
• Add flocculant or algaecide if you notice the early stages of algae growth

Frequently Asked Questions about Algae in Pools

Looking for more help with algae in your pool? Here are some common questions and answers.

Can you swim in a pool with algae?

Technically yes, but it’s not recommended. Algae itself is not harmful to swimmers, but pools with lots of algae can contain harmful bacteria and pathogens like E-coli. And cloudy water caused by algae can be a hazard if swimmers can’t see the bottom of the pool. Avoid swimming in a pool that isn’t properly sanitized and cleaned.

How do you treat algae in saltwater pools?

Getting rid of algae in a saltwater pool is exactly the same process as a traditionally chlorinated pool. Remember, a saltwater pool is a chlorine pool. You are just adding salt instead of a chemical to generate chlorine. Like a traditional chlorine pool, you’ll want to use calcium hypochlorite shock, also known as cal-hypo shock. For more information, check out our guide on how to remove algae from a saltwater pool.

Does shock kill algae in pools?

Yes, shock is the key ingredient to killing algae in pools. Shock raises the free chlorine levels in your pool water to the point where contaminants like algae die off. Depending on the severity of your algae growth, you’ll need to add 2-4 doses of shock. And it’s normal to see cloudy water after killing algae with shock. The water should clear up after you run your filter. Just be sure to vacuum and brush your pool before using shock. This helps remove and loosen up large amounts of algae.

Here’s the type of shock we recommend:

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a step-by-step downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post The Smart Way to Kill Algae in Your Pool Quickly appeared first on Swim University®.

Cloudy pool water is caused by 4 common pool issues: poor filtration, low chlorine levels, poor water chemistry, or contaminants in the water, like debris or algae. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to fix these common issues, and how to clear your cloudy pool fast using a clarifier or flocculant.

You can watch the quick video tutorial below. Or keep reading for the complete cloudy pool water troubleshooting guide.

4 Causes of Cloudy Pool Water And How To Fix It

Poor filtration, low chlorine levels, poor water chemistry, and outside contaminants cause cloudy water. Here’s how to troubleshoot each one of these issues.

1. Poor Filtration

Filter problems are the main cause of cloudy pool water. If your filter isn’t functioning properly, then it can’t remove the tiny contaminants that cause cloudy pool water.

SOLUTION: Keep your pool’s circulation system flowing with regular cleaning, maintenance, and run times. Check for the following filtration issues:

• Your pool filter has a clog or build-up. If you haven’t cleaned your filter in a while, it’s time to backwash your sand or D.E. filter, clean your D.E. filter grids, or clean the cartridge in your filter. Check out our pool filter cleaning walkthrough for more help.
• Your skimmer basket or pump basket is full of debris. Remove any leaves, twigs, or other debris in your skimmer or pump basket. If you’re frequently finding debris in your circulation system, take a look at our pool skimmer troubleshooting guide.
• Your pool filter media needs replacing. If your filter media is worn out or damaged, it won’t be able to capture contaminants that cause cloudy water. So every 5 years, change your filter sand or replace your cartridge filters every 2-3 years. If you have a D.E. filter, add fresh diatomaceous earth powder or replace your D.E. grids.
• You’re not running your filter long enough. To prevent a cloudy pool, all of your pool water must run through the filter system at least once a day. You need to run your filter system for at least 8 to 12 hours a day.
• Your pool pump or filter needs replacing. As it gets older, your pool filter system can start to fail and you may need to replace major pieces of equipment.

2. Low Chlorine Levels

Pathogens, bacteria, and cloudy water form when there’s not enough chlorine to sanitize your water. Chlorine levels can drop if there’s lots of debris like leaves in your pool.

Also, if there’s a build-up of bodily contaminants like sweat or sunscreen, or if your water is exposed to the sun’s UV rays and your chlorine is not properly stabilized.

SOLUTION: Test your free chlorine and combined chlorine levels, add shock to rebalance your chlorine levels, and add cyanuric acid to stabilize a sun-exposed pool.

• Test your free chlorine levels. “Free Chlorine” is the amount of chlorine that’s available to sanitize your pool water. If these levels are low, you don’t have enough chlorine working in your water. To test for free chlorine, use test strips, a liquid test kit, or take a sample to your local pool supply store. If you have a chlorine or salt water pool, your free chlorine and combined chlorine should read between 1 and 3 ppm (parts per million).
• Calculate your combined chlorine levels. If your free chlorine levels are lower than your total chlorine levels, you can end up with chloramines. Chloramines are the byproduct of chlorine sanitizing which can be irritating and even corrosive. Your Combined Chlorine is the difference between your Free Chlorine reading and the Total Chlorine reading. Your combined chlorine should be below 0.5 ppm.
• Shock your pool with cal-hypo shock. To quickly bump up your free chlorine levels and remove chloramines, shock your pool using calcium hypochlorite shock. Calcium hypochlorite should be the main active ingredient in your pool shock (around 60 to 80%). Shocking your pool once per week during peak pool season refreshes your sanitizer levels and prevents cloudy water. If you need more help using shock, check out our guide on how to use pool shock.
• Test and add cyanuric acid if needed. Make sure you have the proper levels of cyanuric acid or CYA in your water. This will help prevent the sun’s UV rays from breaking down your chlorine too quickly. Your CYA levels should be between 30 and 50 ppm.

3. Poor Water Chemistry: High pH, Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness Levels

High levels of pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness can form scale on your pool surfaces and inside your plumbing. This can lead to pool filtration, bacteria growth, and cloudy water. And poor water chemistry makes it more difficult for your chlorine to function well and kill contaminants.

SOLUTION: Test and balance your pH, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness levels.

• Test and balance your Total Alkalinity (TA) levels. Your alkalinity helps prevent fluctuations in your pH, so you’ll want to adjust these levels first. High alkalinity levels can cause pH and calcium scaling, which can cause cloudy water. To lower your alkalinity levels, use muriatic acid or a pH decreaser. To raise your alkalinity levels, use an alkalinity increaser or baking soda.
• Test and balance your pH levels. Improper pH levels can affect your chlorine and other chemicals in your water. High levels of pH can cause calcium build-up and scaling which leads to cloudy pool water. Low levels of pH can cause your chlorine to become overly reactive and quickly depleted. This means it’s less effective at sanitizing, leading to a build-up of contaminants and cloudy pool water. You can lower your pH levels with a pH decreaser. You can raise your pH with a pH increaser or soda ash. If you want more help balancing your pH and total alkalinity, check out our complete guide to basic pool water chemistry.
• Test and balance your Calcium Hardness levels. High calcium hardness levels can cause calcium build-up and scale inside your pool plumbing and equipment. This creates a cloudy pool water problem that’s not easy to fix. If you have high calcium hardness levels, the only thing you can do is dilute your pool water. Partially drain your pool and refill with fresh water from a garden hose filter. Just remember that diluting your pool water will affect all of your water chemistry levels, so you’ll need to test your water again.

4. Contaminants, Like Debris or Algae

Contaminants, particles, and small debris in your pool can cause cloudy water. This is especially common during the springtime. Early-stage algae growth may also cause cloudy pool water.

SOLUTION: Treat algae in its early stages by cleaning and shocking your pool. Test, balance, and clean your water after a rainstorm or when debris or pollen accumulates in your pool.

• Treat algae. If you already have visible algae growth, you’ll need to get rid of your algae problem before you treat your cloudy pool water. Unfortunately, algaecide won’t solve the problem. It’s better as a preventative measure, not a treatment. To remove algae, you’ll need to skim, brush, and vacuum your pool. Be sure to bypass the filter by vacuuming on the waste setting. Then, you’ll want to shock your pool. If you need a step-by-step tutorial on getting rid of algae, check out our guide on how to get rid of algae in your pool.
• Test, balance, and clean your pool after a rainstorm. Storms can blow dirt and debris into your pool and the rain can dilute your pool water. That means your chlorine levels can drop, which we know can lead to cloudy water. Test and balance your water after a rainstorm and skim, brush, and vacuum the pool as needed. If you need to lower your water level, follow this guide on how to drain water from your pool after rain.

If you’re tired of cloudy water and want to learn how to never deal with this problem again, check out our pool maintenance video course today!

If you’ve tackled these common problems and you want to clear your cloudy pool water fast, you can use either a pool clarifier or pool flocculant (aka pool floc). However, your cloudy pool water will return if you don’t correct the underlying causes. So be sure your filter system is running smoothly, your chlorine levels are correct, your water is balanced and you’ve eliminated any algae growth.

How To Use Pool Clarifier (Clears Cloudy Water In 48-72 Hours)

A pool clarifier uses your pool filter system to clear up the cloudy water. This is the easiest method for clearing cloudy pool water, but it takes a few days depending on your pool filter system’s power. Pool clarifier works with any filter type and works best with milder cloudy water issues.

1. Skim, Brush, and Vacuum Your Pool

Remove large debris with a heavy-duty skimmer. Brush your walls well with a stiff pool brush, then vacuum manually.

Do not use an automatic pool cleaner. It won’t properly suck up finer debris. Then vacuum your pool. If you think you’ve got an algae problem, be sure to check out our guide on how to get rid of pool algae here first.

2. Test and Balance Your Water

Test your water with test strips or a liquid test kit. Test strips are easier and quicker to use but are less accurate than a good liquid test kit. Or you can take a water sample to your local pool store. Then, adjust your pH, alkalinity, and chlorine as needed until your water is balanced.

3. Shock Your Pool

To eliminate any contaminants or chloramines in your cloudy pool water, add a high dose of chlorine by shocking your pool. If the cloudy water in your pool is due to a pool algae bloom, you’ll have to double or triple shock depending on the type of algae you have. And always shock your pool at dusk or night for maximum effectiveness.

Run your filter and let the shock dissolve overnight or for at least 8 hours. Then retest your water.

4. Run Your Filter 24/7

You’ll need to continuously run your filter over the next few days to help clear up the cloudy water. You can return to regular filter run times once your water is clear.

Your pool will clear faster depending on the type of filter you own. D.E. Filters, for example, filter out extra fine particles and will clear up cloudy water more quickly. If you have a cartridge filter, it will take a bit longer. If you have a sand filter, it will take the longest.

5. Increase Your Pool Circulation

Your skimmer located at the surface of your pool can’t get to the debris or cloudy water at the bottom of your pool. To help all of your pool water pass through your filter, you can increase your pool’s circulation.

• Position your return jets. Point your return jet(s) down at a 45° angle and all in the same direction. This will help churn the cloudy water up from the bottom of the pool to the top where your main skimmer can get it into your filter system.
• Use your bottom drains. If you have an inground pool, make sure the main drain at the bottom is on and is pulling water from the bottom of the pool into your filter system. This will speed up filtering and clear the pool water faster.
• Turn your vacuum upside down. If you have an above ground pool with no main drain, you can hook up your manual vacuum cleaner and turn it upside down at the bottom of the pool to mimic a bottom main drain.

6. Add Pool Water Clarifier

After your pool water has circulated and your shock has dissipated, it’s time to add your clarifier. Clarifier helps bind tiny particles into bigger particles that your filter can capture. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you’re adding the correct amount for your size pool.

Here’s our recommendation for a pool clarifier:

Clarifier works to clear mild cloudy pool water. Add it every other day as your filter runs until your water clears. If you have extremely cloudy water, you need to use a pool flocculant.

How To Use Pool Flocculant (Clears Cloudy Water In 24-48 Hours)

Pool flocculant, also known as Pool Floc, causes the particles to coagulate together, creating large clumps that sink to the bottom of your pool. Pool flocculant is much faster and more powerful than a pool clarifier, but it takes much more work and requires a lot of manual vacuuming.

The coagulated particles cannot be removed by your filter, so you must be able to vacuum the water out of your pool while bypassing your filter media.

1. Balance Your pH

Test your water’s pH levels with test strips or a liquid test kit. Then, adjust your pH as needed, either with a pH increaser or pH decreaser.

2. Add Pool Flocculant (Floc) Your Water

Pool flocculant binds the contaminants that cause cloudy pool water. Those large clumps then sink to the bottom of your pool. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you’re adding the correct amount of floc for your size pool.

Here’s our recommendation for a pool flocculant:

3. Circulate Your Water

Circulate the pool water with your filter system for two hours. If you have a multiport valve, set it to “recirculate” to bypass your filter.

After circulating the pool chemical for two hours, shut off the filter system for the next 8-12 hours to let the particles settle to the bottom of the pool. Make sure your automatic timer doesn’t turn on in the middle of the night.

4. Vacuum Water Out Of Your Pool

You should now see a big cloud at the bottom of the pool. This means the pool flocculant collected all the particles that were making the water cloudy and sank them to the bottom. And that means it’s time to vacuum.

If you just vacuum your water through your filter system, it’ll just blow right back in through the return jets. Instead, you have to vacuum the water out of your pool.

To do this with a multiport valve on your filter, just set it to the Waste option. This will send the pool water out of the backwash port as you vacuum. Keep a garden hose in your pool to refill your water while you vacuum.

If you don’t have a multiport valve, open the drain port on your filter and let it drain out as you vacuum.

Move the vacuum slowly along the bottom of the pool or else you’ll kick up the cloudy water. You may have to do this multiple times. Let the cloud resettle before continuing.

5. Test And Balance Your Water

Because you’ve removed water from your pool, you’ll need to rebalance your water chemistry. Test your pool water using test strips or a liquid test kit and adjust your Alkalinity and pH. Once you get those levels balanced, add your chlorine.

Now that you’ve gotten the cloudy water out of the pool, you can start running your filter system normally (8-12 hours a day or however long it takes your water to cycle through your filter at least once).

Frequently Asked Questions About Cloudy Pool Water

Looking for more help with your cloudy pool water? Here are some common questions and answers.

How long does it take for a cloudy pool to clear?

Depending on how cloudy your water is, it may take 2-3 days for your water to clear. If you’re using a clarifier, you’ll need to run your filter 24/7, keep your water chemistry balanced, and add the proper amount of water clarifier every other day until it’s clear. Pool flocculant is more powerful and can clear up your cloudy pool water in 1-2 days. But you will need to use a manual vacuum to remove all of the coagulated particles.

Should you swim in cloudy pool water?

No, you should not swim in a cloudy pool. Cloudy pool water is full of contaminants and pathogens. There’s also an increased risk of drowning since you can’t see the bottom of the pool.

Why is my pool cloudy after shocking?

Adding pool shock to an otherwise perfectly clean and balanced pool can even cause temporary cloudiness. This is common and it will dissipate over time as your filter runs. This can also happen if you use a cheaper shock. Be sure to use cal-hypo shock and read the instructions for the proper dosages.

Does too much chlorine make pool water cloudy?

Adding high doses of chlorine, like when you shock your pool, can cause temporary cloudiness as it kills contaminants. High levels of pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness are more likely to cause cloudy water.

Will rainwater make my pool cloudy?

Rainstorms commonly cause cloudy pool water. They can wash contaminants into your pool water and the additional rainwater can throw off your pool water chemistry and lower your chlorine levels.

Will a cloudy pool clear on its own?

If your filter system is running properly and consistently, your chlorine levels are correct, your water is balanced and you’ve eliminated any algae growth, your cloudy pool can clear on its own. Otherwise, consider using a pool clarifier or pool flocculant.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a step-by-step downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post How to Clear Cloudy Pool Water in 48 Hours or Less appeared first on Swim University®.

Unless you’re one of those adventurous polar bear people who like jumping into ice-cold water, you probably want to keep your swimming pool heated. But before you run out and drop the dough on a traditional electric or gas heater, have you considered a solar pool cover?

A solar cover can raise and hold the water temperature of your inground, above ground, or Intex pool. It’ll also reduce your energy costs, minimize water loss, increase heat retention, and in some cases, even decrease chemical needs.

What is The Best Solar Pool Cover?

There are three types of solar covers: blankets, rings, and liquid. Here are our top picks for all three.

NOTE: These solar pool covers are available to buy on either Amazon and InTheSwim.com. Check both sites for availability. All the links are affiliate links which means if you click a link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you. It helps us keep the lights on

For a classic solar cover that’ll not only heat your pool but will also help reduce water and chemical evaporation at night, we like this lightweight clear solar cover. Perfect for both inground and above ground swimming pools.

If you get a lot of sun during the day, but lose heat due to colder temperatures at night, then you can use a liquid solar cover. This chemical adds a microscopic layer on your pool water surface that you can’t see or feel. And if you keep your filter system off at night, it’ll help reduce water evaporation helping you to retain the heat you gain during the day.

And finally, if taking a full solar cover on and offer your large pool is too much of a pain (and you refuse to get a solar reel), then you can use solar rings. Just toss these round discs on your pool when you’re not using it to help gain and retain heat.

What is a Solar Pool Cover?

With no cover at all, pool water absorbs a substantial amount of sunlight. A white plaster pool averaging 4.5 feet in depth absorbs approximately 60% of the sun’s energy. This energy will heat the pool by about 0.7°F per hour under the noontime sun.

But this heat gain is counteracted by water evaporation, which is dependent not only on water and air temperature but also wind on the pool’s surface and humidity. Evaporation would cause the same pool to lose about 5°F for every ¼-inch of water evaporated.

Solar pool covers capture the energy of the sun and transfer it directly into your pool water to keep it warm. Depending on where you live, a solar cover may not keep the water as warm as an electric or gas heater, but the tradeoff is that it can actually save you money by reducing water evaporation.

Before we continue, are you tired of fighting with your pool? You’re not alone. Most people are frustrated by their pools because they don’t know what to do or how to fix it when something goes wrong. Our comprehensive illustrated guide and video lessons will show you exactly what to do so you can get back in the water fast. Click here right now and purchase our Pool Care Video Course today!

Do Solar Pool Covers Really Work?

Yes! Every time you lose water, through splashing or evaporation, you have to replace it. And new water takes energy to heat. Solar pool covers help retain the heat already in the water by reducing water evaporation. And they act as a magnifying glass to amplify the sun’s warming effect on your pool water.

What Is The Best Color for a Solar Pool Cover?

Solar pool covers are available in several thicknesses. They’re measured in mil, which is the standard United States unit of measure for one-thousandth of an inch.

• Blue solar covers can measure 4 mil (very weak – lasts about 1 year) and 8 mil (heavy-duty – lasts 1 to 2 years).
• Clear solar covers can measure 12 mil (heavy-duty – lasts 3 to 4 years) and 16 mil (strongest and most durable –  lasts 5 to 10 years).

What Is The Best Thickness for a Solar Pool Cover?

After testing, we found that any solar pool cover between 12-mil and 16-mil performed best for heat retention. Higher mil solar covers absorbed more heat and were found to be more durable against the sun damage, chemical resistance, and ripping.

How Much Do Solar Pool Covers Cost?

Solar covers are usually fairly inexpensive, but you can spend a little more for a higher-quality option. Most solar covers cost between $75 – $225. And don’t worry if you have a unique pool shape—you can trim a solar blanket to perfectly customize it to your pool.

How to Use a Solar Pool Cover

The first time you unpack it, a solar blanket may be a little unwieldy, but it’s easily fixed. First, unfold it next to the pool. Spread it out bubble-side down on top of the pool water. The bubbles keep your cover afloat while, depending on the color and type of cover, acting as little magnifying glasses to heat up your pool.

Straight out of the box, the solar blanket will probably hang out over the sides of your pool, especially if you have a uniquely shaped pool. Use multi-purpose scissors to trim the excess so the blanket fits inside the pool.

Tip: Leave a flap 2 to 3 inches long where your skimmer is so you can tuck it under the edge of the skimmer. This allows you to push debris into the skimmer before removing the blanket.

Ideally, you’ll put your solar blanket on whenever the pool is not in use. Daytime is the best time for it to heat up your water, of course, since it relies on the sun. However, keeping it on through the night prevents water and heat loss via evaporation.

Tip: Running your pump while your solar blanket is on is completely safe.

If you’re in and out of the pool throughout the day, just be sure to put it back on when you’ve finished using the pool for the day. Obviously, you’re not going to want to swim with a solar blanket on the pool, so before you get in, you’ll need to remove it.

How to Remove a Solar Cover From Your Inground or Above Ground Pool

If you have a large pool, or if you swim often, removing the solar blanket every time you want to use your pool can be quite a chore. One solution is to cut the solar blanket into smaller panels so you can remove the pieces one at a time. If you’d rather not cut the blanket up, a convenient alternative is a solar cover reel.

Good for both inground, above ground, and Intex pools, the solar reel is placed at one end of the pool. You’ll attach one end of the solar blanket to the reel, and then turn the handle or wheel. The blanket will be spooled onto the solar reel, saving you a lot of hard work.

Some solar blanket reels are available with wheels, so you can roll up your cover and then move the solar reel aside. Others come with mounting hardware to install permanently in one location. Which version works best for you will depend mostly on how much space you have around your pool.

If you don’t have a solar reel, you can pull the cover off and “accordion fold” it. Pull about four feet out, then fold that section in half. Continue pulling two-foot sections, folding each one back and forth like an accordion. This method also lets you rinse off each small section before folding, if needed.

Important: It’s very important that you always remove a solar blanket from the pool before allowing anyone to swim, especially small children and pets. Partially removing it or folding it back isn’t enough. It’s possible for them to become trapped under the blanket. It must be completely removed to avoid this risk.

Tip: If you remove the solar blanket temporarily, be sure to keep it covered or in the shade to prolong its life.

How to Properly Store Your Solar Cover

At the end of pool season, it’ll be time to break out the safety cover, and store the solar blanket. But before you do that, you must make sure the solar blanket is clean and completely dry so you don’t get a nasty, moldy surprise when you open it up next season.

To clean your solar blanket, remove it from the pool, and lay it on a soft surface like grass. Concrete can damage the bubbles, making the blanket less able to float and do its job.

Once you have it spread out flat, use a soft push broom or soft scrub brush and clean water to scrub away dirt, algae or buildup, then rinse. Dry the blanket well by hand, using a leaf blower, or hanging it up to dry.

Tip: Don’t ever leave your solar cover out to dry on your lawn. It can burn your grass.

After you wash and dry your solar blanket, reel it up. Some pool cover reels come with a weather- and UV-resistant storage cover so you can store it outside if you don’t have any indoor space for it. If your reel didn’t come with a cover, you can always pick one up.

If you’re folding your blanket up, place it in a container with a sturdy lid to keep pests out. Then store the container somewhere cool and out of direct sunlight to prevent the cover from shrinking, and the plastic container from deteriorating.

The 5 Benefits to Using a Solar Cover on Your Pool

In addition to warming your pool water, solar blankets offer some money-saving benefits.

1. Solar Covers Transfer Heat

If you laid a sheet of plain bubble wrap on top of your pool water, all the little bubbles would act as magnifying glasses and would transfer some (not a lot of) heat to the water. But regular bubble wrap is too flimsy to use for this purpose. Enter the solar blanket.

Depending on the color, opacity, and type of solar blanket you use, you could very well get some actual heating benefit from it. A light-colored, clear cover will allow the sun’s UV rays to pass through to the water, thereby heating it. A dark, opaque cover may still let some through if the material is thin, but not as many as the light, clear cover.

To get the most heat transfer from a solar blanket, look for one that is white or clear on top, with dark or black bubbles. The dark color will absorb the sun’s heat and will transfer that heat to the water they’re touching.

If heat transfer is one of your goals in buying a solar blanket, keep these features and benefits in mind so you can choose the right one for your pool:

1. Clear, bubbled blanket: allows the most sunlight and UV rays to pass through, and retains heat very well.
2. Clear on top/Dark on bottom bubbled blanket: dark bottom absorbs heat and transfers it to the water, and it retains heat well.
3. Dark, opaque, thin solar cover (no bubbles): dark cover absorbs heat and transfers it to the water, but doesn’t retain much heat.
4. White or reflective bubbled blanket: doesn’t absorb much heat, but retains it well.
5. White or reflective thin solar cover (no bubbles): doesn’t absorb heat, and doesn’t retain much heat.

Important: While it may be nice to get some heat transfer from a clear solar blanket, remember that UV rays burn off chlorine, so it’s a tradeoff. If you’re not already using stabilized chlorine, you may want to add cyanuric acid to the water to protect the chlorine.

2. Retain Heat

When the sun sets and the night air cools, a lot of the heat your pool gained during the day is lost. A solar blanket floating on the water keeps some of that heat from dissipating. And if you couple a gas or electric pool heater with a solar blanket, the heater won’t need to run as long to keep your pool temperature steady.

3. Reduce Evaporation

A solar blanket can cut evaporation by about 95 percent.

4. Keep Bugs and Debris Out

Although it’s not one of their primary purposes, solar blankets do shield your pool from bugs and debris such as leaves and twigs. If your blanket does trap debris, use a hand skimmer to scoop it out before removing the cover.

The more debris you can keep out of your pool water, the less you have to run your pump on high to vacuum, and the more you can save in energy costs.

5. Lower Chemical Costs

When water evaporates from your pool, you don’t just lose water—you also lose some of the chemicals you use to treat that water. By using a solar blanket, you can prevent 35 to 60 percent of your pool water chemicals from disappearing into thin air.

Imagine spending half as much money on chemicals every year. That savings alone would likely more than cover the cost of a solar blanket.

Solar Sun Rings For Inground and Above Ground Swimming Pools

If a solar blanket seems like too much of a hassle to put on, take off, and store during the swimming season, you may prefer solar rings or squares. These can even be decorative because some of them have patterns and images such as palm trees printed on them, while others come in fun shapes such as flowers.

Solar rings are sold individually for around $25 to $35 each, or in sets for around $140 to $160 or more, depending on how many rings come in the set. The number you need to cover your pool’s surface will depend on the sizes of both your pool and the rings.

How to Use Solar Rings: They’re Not Just for Looks

Unlike the solar blanket’s air-filled bubbles, solar rings are flat and must be inflated before you place them on the water. You’ll inflate the inner portion only slightly, and the outer portion until it’s firm, the way you’d blow up a balloon. Then simply place them on the water and let them do their job.

Some solar sun rings have magnets around the circumference of the outer portion. This not only helps the rings stay connected to each other, thereby reducing gaps, it also keeps them from overlapping and leaving even more water exposed.

It’s important to note that neither solar sun rings nor squares will cover every inch of your pool water. There will be gaps, even when they’re connected by their magnets. It’s for this reason that solar rings and squares are not as effective as a solar blanket at either heating your pool water or preventing evaporation.

Tip: You can continue to run your pump while solar rings are on the pool.

How to Remove Solar Rings

This is where you’ll see an advantage over the solar blanket. Solar rings are extremely easy to remove from the pool, no reel required. It’s just a matter of detaching the magnets, scooping the rings from the water, and you’re done!

How to Properly Store Solar Rings

For temporary storage, such as when you’re swimming but you’ll be putting the rings back on the pool later, you can simply stack them near the pool. Keep them out of the wind, though, or they may end up all over the pool deck and yard.

Some rings and squares have loops on the outer portion so you can hang them up while you swim.

When the swimming season is over, long-term storage is easy, too. Once you have the rings out of the water, spray them off and, if necessary, use a soft push broom or brush to clear any debris from them. Do this before you deflate them to make sure nothing gets trapped in any folds or wrinkles.

Next, dry them completely. It will be easiest to do this by hand. Taking a leaf blower to solar rings may just blow them right back into the pool, or into the neighbor’s yard. While that might be entertaining, it won’t be efficient. (Actually, you’ll find a leaf blower can come in handy for a lot of pool-related cleaning tasks.)

Once they’re dry, deflate them, flatten them, and store them in their storage bag (if they came with one), or in a container with a lid. Keep the bag or container in a cool, dry place.

Regardless of how and where you store them, just be sure to keep them out of direct sunlight, and away from abrasive surfaces.

Solar Ring Benefits

In addition to having some of the same benefits as a solar blanket, and aside from being much easier to deploy and remove from the pool, solar rings and squares offer one major advantage over the blanket.

When they’re on the water, if a child or pet (or anyone) happens to fall into the water, solar rings will break apart on impact, and will not form a solid barrier that can make it difficult to come to the surface.

Reduce Water Evaporation

While they’re not as efficient as a solar blanket, they can still reduce pool water evaporation by about 50 percent, which can still save you money on water, chemicals, and heating.

Heat Retention and Lower Heating Costs

Even though they don’t cover the entire surface of the inground or above ground swimming pool, they do still help the water retain some heat overnight as well.

Keep Bugs and Debris Out

Finally, they may catch some bugs and debris here and there, but probably not enough to make a noticeable difference in your cleaning time. Take care to scoop debris out of them before removing the solar rings from the pool so the debris doesn’t fall into the water during removal.

Again, less debris in the water can save pump and vacuuming time, which saves money.

Lower Chemical Costs

You may still see some reduced chemical use with solar rings But remember that once again, the savings won’t be as large as you might get with a solar blanket since the rings don’t completely cover the surface of the water.

Note: A solar cover option very similar to rings and squares is solar mats. They’re flat and do not require inflation. Most of them spring open and twist closed, just like a windshield sun shade. Their use, care, and benefits are pretty much identical to solar rings and squares.

Liquid Solar Cover: The Future Is Now

Is it really possible that you could pour something into your pool water that magically warms it up? Yup. That’s basically how liquid solar cover works. Except it’s not magic; it’s more science!

Liquid solar cover contains aliphatic alcohols, which form a monolayer film on the surface of the water, thereby requiring upwardly escaping water molecules to expend energy in forcing adjacent molecular chains sufficiently apart to pass between them

In plain English? A one-molecule-thick layer of fatty alcohol sits on the surface of the water, inhibiting the water’s ability to evaporate normally. Preventing evaporation prevents heat loss, and voilà! Your pool stays warmer than if you had no solar cover at all.

Liquid solar cover ranges in price from about $10 to about $30 or more, depending on brand and whether you buy a single container or a pack of multiple containers.

How to Use Liquid Solar Cover

In addition to bottles, you can also find liquid solar cover in special dispersal packets, sometimes shaped like a cute little fish. Usually, you’ll just make a small cut in the dispersal packet, and set it free in the pool. Follow the instructions to be sure you add enough packets for your pool.

For bottled liquid solar cover, simply measure out the appropriate amount according to the volume of your pool, and pour it in. That’s it. Really.

We like to add enough liquid solar cover to last for a month, but always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for optimal performance. If you have a lot of splashout, heavy rain, or extremely dry conditions you may need to add liquid solar cover more often.

Tip: You can run your pump as usual with liquid solar cover in the pool.

You Can Remove Liquid Solar Cover, But Why?

Although we can’t think of any reason why you’d want to, the only way to remove liquid solar cover from your pool water would be to drain the pool and refill it, and no one wants to do that if it can be avoided.

The thing is, if you decided to stop using liquid solar cover for any reason, all you have to do is wait a while. The chemical naturally dissipates over a certain period of time, depending on how large your pool is and how much liquid solar cover you have to use.

For this reason, for as long as you want to use it, liquid solar cover must be added to your pool on a regular basis, so be sure to add it to your swimming pool maintenance schedule.

Liquid Solar Cover Benefits

Just like any other chemical, you add to your pool water, liquid solar cover is completely safe for people and pets. It won’t irritate your skin (although there may be exceptions in those who have extreme sensitivities), and it doesn’t leave any residue on you or your swimsuit.

Note: While it’s not a good idea for your pet to drink pool water on a regular basis, liquid solar cover is safe for the occasional sip or two your dog might decide to take when you’re not looking. Always check the safety notes for the brand you choose before using it, and before letting your pets into the pool.

Reduce Water Evaporation

You can cut water evaporation by about 15 percent with a liquid solar cover. Does it really work? Absolutely. We even tested it.

Heat Retention and Lower Heating Costs

Liquid solar covers are about 75 percent as effective as solar blankets at retaining heat. But remember, it works constantly without your having to remember to cover the pool at night.

This may be a tradeoff for never having to reel in, clean, and store liquid solar cover, though.

Keep Bugs and Debris Out

Well, here’s one area where solar blankets and rings are the clear winner. Of course, liquid solar cover isn’t going to keep bugs, leaves, and other debris out of your pool.

If you opt to use this heating method, you’ll have to stay on top of things with your handheld skimmer and vacuum.

Lower Chemical Costs

Nope, we’re actually adding a chemical cost with this one. But it’s (we think) an affordable one that offers a good return on that investment.

How to Save Money While Heating Your Pool Water

Now you know how each type of solar cover works, a few benefits of using them, and the best way to do so. But wait! There’s more! We’ve got a few extra tips to help you save even more money.

• Run your filter during the hottest part of the day. This can help mitigate heat loss from evaporation. However, you’ll need to weigh this practice against power use during peak hours.
• Remove your solar blanket or rings before shocking your pool. The high concentration of chlorine will damage them.
• Prevent additional water evaporation due to wind by creating a windbreak around your pool. The higher the wind speed above your water, the more water will evaporate. Disrupt the wind with a pool cage, plants, patio furniture, or privacy screens.
• Run water features only when you’re around to enjoy them. Vanishing edge swimming pools and waterfalls can double your water evaporation rate because they create more surface area by constantly moving the water.

Invest in a Solar Pool Cover

While it won’t heat your inground or above ground pool as much as a traditional electric or gas heater will, any type of solar pool cover will keep more heat—and more water—in your pool.

But it doesn’t have to be a one or the other choice. You can use any kind of solar pool cover in tandem with an electric or gas heater, which will help you save money on utilities, water replacement, and pool chemicals. For such a modest upfront investment, you can’t afford not to have one.

Happy Swimming!

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